Bartman

Hanns, Looks good! Let me know when you're gonna take her to the track so I can go watch. Keep the rubber side down.

Just curious why you would want to start your car in gear? I assume mine has this same issue, but I see no reason to change it...in fact it sounds liks something I would want to have.

It's a good thing that it was in New York instead of California, or I might have had to buy that thing for $250. I think it would make a fun toy.

It definitely changes the whole look of the back. Now all you need to do is plug that one hole below the light on the far left. BTW - I'm planning on using that same rear spoiler.

JTR has mounts for LS1 engines in an S30? They must have come out recently...there's no mention of it on their web site (unless I'm missing it)?

I wonder if you could go from the crank pulley straight to the alternator? Here's a picture from Bowers that can give you a good perspective of how everything lines up.

I like that message on the Camaro's windshield "240 my *ss what about me!"

Definitely need to use wire loom (already on your list) and do some cleanup under the hood. What's the big plastic air filter like thing on the top of the engine? I would think it would look better without it.

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=107977

You've done a lot of work in a relatively short time. I guess you put aside all the money and time and just knocked it all out. There are quite a few people at this site that take years to do what you've done in a couple of months. How many hours a day have you been spending on your project?

I just read the article tonight and they say the stock Solstice weighs just under 3,000 pounds, and one of their goals is to keep the car near that weight. They're stripping out everything they can. They claim that the V-8 powertrain adds about 800 pounds. Could this be right? They must mean total weight not 800 pounds more than the Solstice stock powertrain.

I received my new throttle body today: It definitely looks like it would flow more air and I added the bore matched airfoil as well. Here's a shot of it installed: Some parts look like they could use a little cleaning, but overall I like the look. I purchased a special flexible filler that I will use to fill in the Corvette lettering on the fuel rail covers and then I'll paint them either black or blue (I haven't decided which color would look better).

There are a couple of threads where people ask about getting an LT1 out of a Caprice (cop car) or out of an Camaro (f-body). I thought it would be nice to have a thread that lists the specifics of each engine. Here's what I've been able to find (please feel free to correct me if anything is incorrect). Horsepower/Torque (94 - 96) Caprice 260/330 (94 - 95) Camaro 275/325 (96) Camaro 285/325 The Camaro engine has an approximate 50 lbs savings by having aluminum heads instead of cast iron heads. The cast iron Caprice heads had better "flow" than the 94 - 95 Camaro heads, but in 96 the Camaro aluminum heads had the same flow as the Caprice cast iron head and therefore achieved a 10 hp gain. Here are the other differences I was able to find: Camaro Compression: 10.5:1 Cam/valve lift specs: .450/.460 (int/exh) Valve springs: 268 lb/in Valve spring od: 1.300" Valve spring inst ht: 1.78" MAF id: 3.5" Caprice Compression:10.0:1 Cam/valve lift specs: .417/.429 (int/exh) Valve springs: 393 lb/in Valve spring od: 1.241" Valve spring inst ht: 1.70" MAF id: 3.25"

http://album.hybridz.org/showgallery.php?ppuser=13363&cat=500

I don't know if anyone here is the high bidder, but it's currently at $405. That seems like way too much to me for a fiberglass panel.

From what I have read previously the LS blocks don't work well for high horsepower builds (say over 600-700 hp). The article Grumpy posted seems to confirm this. They used a 6.0L truck block on the Ps!-chotic build.

I couldn't figure out how to remove my Hazard switch from the dash as well. Datsunan was on the right track, but I still couldn't get it to work. I found this post at classiczcars and i got it off right away "there's a spring clip in the knob itself. Push in about 1/8" and turn counterclockwise a quarter-turn and it pops off". I actually removed the switch by pulling out the entire post...luckily it didn't break and I was able to reinsert it. Now I can easily remove and replace the knob properly. I bet a lot of these pull-type switches have been broken by people trying to remove them.

Not sure if I completely like it or not. The engine is awfully close to the front seats...so close that I think the engine (luggage) cover prevents the seat from reclining to a comfortable driving position (the seat looks like its touching the cover in the pictures). It may be a little uncomfortable for taller people. I think he wants too much money for what it is, but some nice engineering and it would be interesting to see.