Bartman

Check out this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=103873 Look at the pic that Zhadman posted.

It just so happens that there's another current thread that talks about a supercharged and turbocharged Golf.http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=108933

Even though the RB25 probably is more clean burning and fuel efficient, the CA DMV doesn't even take that into consideration. If the RB25 doesn't come in a US market car, then you probably don't even have a chance of making it 'legal'. If it did come in a US Market car, then it needs to be the same year or later (than the car you put the engine into) and use all the smog equipment that it had when it was in the donor vehicle. You're coming here from Holland to attend the show?

Quite a few people replace the fuel lines, brake master cylinder, clutch master cylinder, and wiring as well. You probably want to upgrade your brakes to add extra stopping power to go with your extra horsepower. Figure out your goal and determine what you need to get there. You may as well do everything you need to do while the engine is out. I wound up completely disassembling the front end and replacing all the bushings with eurethane, new tie rod ends, coilovers, upgraded brakes, etc.

Darn, If I would've known that was for sale for $3000 I would have bought it before it went on eBay. Now it's going to go for much more.

I like it (at least in general). I think if I did another hybrid, I'd go for putting a V8 in a 911. If nothing else, it pisses off just about everyone.

I received all my fittings and lines yesterday, so I'm going to figure out the proper lengths and then take them in to have the fittings crimped on properly. The only big thing I have left is to wire everything up and reinstall my dash. I appreciate your charging offer and I'll let you know as I get closer. A buddy of mine that owns a car shop has offered to charge it up for me as well.

My system is almost complete, and here are my approximate costs:Bower's low hood bracket kit (includes bracket, delete pulley, belt, and hardware): $289 plus shipping Used LT1 compressor $50 Vintage Air GEN-II mini, condensor, dryer, lines, etc.; approximately $1000

I'm a little surprised to see Pete's thinking about adding something that might be considered a little on the bling side. If you were going to do this I would say go for less rows and make them wider...but I think you'd be better off without them.

Good to see your car up and running. That's a very unusual sound...I guess that's your bov? I assume different models/types have different sounds? The regular engine noise sounds like it's coming from a distance, but the bov almost sounds like it's coming from somewhere else (right by the camera).

I like the blended in look...but won't it start cracking eventually?

I just read that Consumer Reports rated the Ridgeline as the top pickup. So do you think Consumer Reports is biased as well? Remember, companies are not permited to use Consumer Reports rankings in their advertising.

Keep us updated with your progress. Here's a shot of the car Mat73GNZ was talking about.

I’m using an LT1 Compressor with my Vintage Air Install and I purchased the Compressor Adapter Block 34108-VUQ, Seal Washer Kit 33600-VUI and Offset Flange Pad Seal Washer Kit 33602-VUI. This comes with a bunch of parts, but no instructions about which parts are actually used and how. I sent an email to tech support, but they didn’t know and referred me to Doc’s Blocks who actually manufactures the adapter blocks. I spoke with Mike at Doc’s Blocks and he was very helpful. So for those of you using the LT1 Compressor here’s what I learned. First, here’s a picture of the back of my compressor: It’s not the best picture, but the flange pads are offset, so it definitely requires the offset seal washers. The big question for me is what else was required to ensure that the connection is done correctly and won’t leak. Here’s a picture of everything that came with the parts I ordered: I guess they include a bunch of different parts that covers a wide range of different installs. The O-rings are only used for older R-12 installation so they won’t apply for my install. According to Mike I don’t need any of the other parts from Vintage Air other than the actual block and the two seal washers leaning against the block (one thicker than the other to compensate for the flange pad height difference). I’ll let you know if it holds pressure…

You'll find the part #'s that Time used in this link: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=85393

I made a couple of 14 gauge steel plates and installed my Control Panel. Here's a pic of the center panel with the Control Panel in place: I've also installed the evaporator, condensor, bulkhead plate, dryer, and ordered up the lines. Still have more work to do on the dash, but it's getting pretty close. Let me know if you would like to see any specific pictures of anything that I have installed.

Just in case your interested, there's a complete setup on eBay with low miles and a warranty. Shipping isn't too bad either. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GM-Chevrolet-LT1-Camaro-5-7L-6-Speed-Manual-COMPLETE_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33615QQitemZ8040912369QQrdZ1

Check with kjones , he was working on a setup for an L28 that may work on an L26 as well. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=99330

I got my Cusco's at HorsepowerFreaks: http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/price/Nissan/240Z/Cusco/Suspension/Strut_Tower_Bars

I don't know about the rest of you...but for some strange reason I really enjoyed the Fart Button.

Since you're close I'd talk to John about seeing it placed on a car and then sitting in it. I think 4" is extremely high, and I wouldn't do it unless you really needed that space to fit your engine. Now about those wheels...what about some nice spinners.