Bartman

Thanks for posting this info wheelman. I think I've gotten to the point where I really need to be able to view and edit my PCM. I tested the outputs for my fan and I couldn't get either one to energize (after I got the water temperature high), and from the FSM it looks like by default they energize at temperatures that are too high for my tastes. So which software package would be best for me with my 94 LT1 and what else would I need (connector, etc)? I think I have an old laptop that would probably do the trick.

The link that datsunlover posted goes to the MAD enterprises site. I spoke with Mark last week and ordered some parts from him to install my Taurus fan. He is a wealth of information, and I'm sure he could tell you exactly what your problem is and how to fix it. If you call him, make sure you have enough time because he can give you all the information you need and more. He's a great guy and I highly recommend him for great advice and great parts.

Thanks for posting this information Jody, I've been having the same problem with my speedo. So you installed a total of two resistors, one on the power and one on the signal?

There are 13 orders now! You can specify whether you want an amp or volt gauge when you place your order.

I called them, and I would need to order the entire set. They also think they could match my Ultralites pretty closely (at least during the day). Are the guages for the 240's, 260's and 280's the same (at least internally)?

So if I understand this correctly, we can all order different options (dial color, font style, etc.)? I already have an Ultralite Autometer Speedo and Tach, and I'd like to keep my other stock gauges; but have them match in style and color to the Ultrlite's. Would this work? Do I have to get all the gauges, even if I don't need the Speedo and Tach?

I like this one, but it may read a little easier like this "AG BULIT". I don't know about Maryland, but in California you can have seven characters and a space (or at least a half space).

Congratulations! You'll have to post up some pic's of your engine installed. Another LT1 powered Z is alive.

I have the European bumpers, but they still have 2 holes in them for the bumper guards (front and back). They are very expensive, but you can find them on eBay once in a while for a fairly decent price. I originally ordered both the front and rear from MSA and the front one looks pretty good. The rear center bar was terrible, and after three tries I gave up and got my money back. I eventually found that piece on eBay (rechromed with the holes filled in).

These headers at Summit look like the same one's (and they have an 8019 in the part number). "Patriot tight tuck street rod headers", Summit Part # PTE-H8019-1. Summit states that they are for oval port shape.

I bought those exact same headers just a month or two ago, but I didn't look at them that closely before I installed them. Maybe mine are just as bad as yours. The instructions that came with mine stated that they were actually Patriot Headers. Did yours come with any similar paperwork?

Welcome to HybridZ. The question you are asking has been asked and answered by many people. To help you find all the data that's already been posted about this do an advanced search for "carb FI" searching only in the "Chevy V8Z Tech Board". I just tried it, and the search returned good information that will help you determine what works best for you. Hope this helps.

Thanks jack46. I found some information on the web which supports exactly what you stated. In fact this guy sells them too.http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/fusible-link.shtml This web site also talks about and sells relays and recommends using two relays in parallel instead of using one high power relay for electric fan installs. http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/rly-1.shtml I think I'm going to call this guy and order the stuff I need from him. Jack if it isn't too much trouble, could you post or send me a diagram for your setup? It sounds like you have exactly the setup I would like to use.

I want to rewire my fan to work using the outputs from my LT1 PCM. Here's Larry's wiring diagram: I think this will generally work, but Larry is showing fusible links instead of regular fuses. Should I use fusible links or not? The other inputs for the relays will be from my PCM. I will purchase the VF7 relay and parts that Pete recommended in his post on another thread. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=99700&highlight=taurus+fan+wiring I would really like to figure out what parts I need in addition to the one's Pete provided in the link above. It seems like Newark would be a great place to get everything, including the low speed relay, connector, and any required diodes. I'm currently using a Painless auxillary fuse block that has a built in 30 amp relay. Can I use this, or do I need a different solution for fuses?

Here's how my fan is wired. I have a Pilot 12V 30amp relay that is connected directly to my battery, the fan, ground, and a switch. The switch is also connected to ground (as well as to the relay) and gets power from my Painless auxillary fuse block. Now looking at this, I think it's all wrong! The fuse is protecting the switch and there is no fuse in the circuit to power the fan. I think I need to redo this the right way and use my PCM inputs instead of a switch to power both my high and low settings. I'll have to try and understand the drawings that have been posted to do this job correctly.

I would still appreciate an explanation about high amperage relays. These Taurus fans are REALLY popular and there are a bunch of forums on the net that praise their performance and value. Everyone seems to have different data, but the consensus is that the draw a LOT of power. Something like 33 amps continuous and up to 100 amps at startup. http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/taurus/. One article I read claims that it draws 130 amps on startup and 40 amps continuous! http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2003/02/electricfan/index.shtml I would think that I have it wired up correctly or it wouldn't work at all. Most of the time it works, and it seems to work well. I would assume that somewhere I have a weak link. I'm using a 20 amp fuse and it's not blowing out. Doesn't that mean I'm not getting enough amperage through it? I don't want to waste money replacing things that don't need to be replaced, but it sure sounds like I need to double up my relay or purchase a higher amp unit. PS - Thanks Hans for letting me hijack your thread to debug my fan install.

Here's another link that has some of the same pic's as Cjarloz, plus a few more. http://www.arkansascamaro.com/2007camaro.html

Talk about the new Camaro is common lately, and there has been a lot of speculation about if and when it would happen, where it would be built, and what platform it would be based on. Here's a nicer looking version (at least I think it is): There was a couple of others in my latest Road & Track that I can't find on the Internet yet.

Hans, What relay's are you using? I've only wired the high speed of my fan and I wired it using one single POS relay. I'm wondering if I'm not getting enough amperage to my fan and that's why it won't start sometimes. Maybe I need to use two good one's like you did. I should really hook it up the right way like wheelman did and let the PCM control the high and low speeds. Man, it's a good thing I don't do this for a living:icon52: . I was justed searching around the internet, and I found another site where they talk about using a 75 amp rated Bosch relay (0 332 002 156) that supposedly costs around $30. Maybe I should get one of these (or something similar)?

I'd put in the "useless without pic's" smilie, but I can't find it. Do you have any pictures to post?

Yes, I jut get it going by turning the blade manually with the end of a screwdriver or something similar (not brave enough to use my hand, the blades are pretty sharp and can spin pretty fast). It works fine 95% of the time, but I want to be sure it always turns on when I flip the switch. I don't know much about electrical, but maybe there's a bad spot in the motor and when it stops there it can't start again?