Bartman

I was just looking around at MSA's web site and they now have early Z style carbon fiber bumpers. I think they look pretty nice. I wanted to go with European chrome bumpers, but they could never get a rear face bar that looked good enough to keep (had to eventually cancel the order). I think these carbon fiber ones are actually cheaper than the chrome ones.

I'm getting tired of showing up to events without my Z:toetap05: . It's getting close, but it doesn't look like it will be ready for the trip. I'll try to swing by anyway...at least this time the host doesn't have a running Z either:icon53: .

Sounds great! What's that sound at the beginning...kinda sounds like Homer saying "Doooooh".

Congrats on getting your car on the road! I was driving mine without a hood and front end (grill, lights, bumper, etc) as well. Not having a complete exhaust system didn't bother me too much, but a lot of houses in the neighborhood are for sale now:shock:. I guess a few neighbors have made comments to my wife about my "project" and how loud it is. I can definitely relate to the raw power as well, and I'm glad I put in the LSD to put that power to the pavement. How much difference do you think the LT4 cam makes? Does it give it a lumpier idle or any other noticeable difference from the stock LT1 cam?

I bought a pair of fully loaded remanufactured calipers on eBay for $130 in addition to Modern Motorsports 'Typical 4x4 Vented Front Brake Package' for $350. These two items will give you everything you need for the front brake 4x4 swap. To complete my package I put in the small ZX rear discs, a larger ZX Master Cylinder and a Wilwood Proportioning Valve.

Thanks David, I'm very happy with the tank and appreciate your quick shipment and careful packing. I'm just using the stock supply line (approx. 5/16") and the stock vent line for my return (approx. 1/4"). The fuel tank install is essentially complete (still need to make a cover for the hole where the spare tire well used to be) and now I can finish my exhaust.

I've decided to order a pair of block huggers from ThermalTech and get some extra clearance. So for those of you high horsepower guys that want a killer exhaust setup send me a PM as I will be selling the complete system. According to one source I spoke with long tube headers are better for high revving engines and that the block hugger headers may have higher horsepower at lower RPMs. Either way, I think that for my application I want the extra clearance. Wheelman, My engine is as far back as it would go, and I may need to make adjustments to allow fitment of the block huggers. I also didn't use crossmember spacers, so I may need to install those as well.

Yes it's no longer used; in fact I removed all the emissions devices before I made the final installation. Removing the evap tank, helped me install the tank a little farther to the rear of the car. I wanted to install it as far to the back as possible to help allow as much room as possible for accessing the rear suspension and routing for exhaust.

No one has any words of advice here? Could anyone tell me about how much horsepower difference there would be between having these long tube headers with a single 3" exhaust compared to block hugger headers with dual 2.5"? My car has an essentially stock 94 LT1 engine.

llingI got myself a Lincoln Electric Weld Pak 100 and fab'ed up a couple of brackets. I used C channel instead of steel tube to help keep the weight down. I still think these will be plenty strong enough. Don't look too closely at my welds, this was my first attempt at welding:redface: . I don't have a picture yet, but I got the stock LS1 filler neck installed as well.

Here's a shot of how my car looks now: I've got most everything worked out except for bodywork, paint, and the interior. I have coilovers and I think the car could be lowered a little bit, but the exhaust is already too low. I'm looking for advice as to what to do with my exhaust. I have nice long tube headers and single 3" exhaust (the rear section doesnt fit with my LS1 fuel tank), but I think they sit way too low. The rear of the exhaust would be raised a little when completed, but I'm not sure I want to stick with this system. It seems that a lot of you are looking for long tube headers, but I'm not sure they work for my application. These are great Tri-Y ceramic coated units that Tim240Z made with 1.75" primaries going into 2.25" into 3" collectors. Are these so good that I should just deal with having low clearance, or should I sell the full exhaust system and have one made that will give me more clearance? If I keep the headers, I then need to figure out if I should keep the mid section, or replace from the headers back. Whatever I do, I want to have 2.5" duals out the back (one on either side of my LS1 tank). I already have my FlowTech Afterburners sitting in my garage. BTW - My car will not be a daily driver, but it will be for street use only; so I could give up a couple HP's so that my car can sit lower without scraping the exhaust.

I removed the old filler and vent assembly for the Z, and was able to get the filler neck from the new tank to fit nicely. All I need is to get a hose that's about two inches longer, and I'll be set. I haven't read in anyone elses LS1 Tank swap information about being able to use the LS1 filler neck. Not sure why mine works, but it even fits without having to bend the hose much at all:shock: . Mat73GNZ, I don't have any more pictures of my adjustable control arms, but these were custom made by Tim240Z.

I got the fuel tank mocked up and ready for metal brackets. I removed the spare tire well and used a couple of 1x2's and some threaded rods to hold it in place. Here's some pic's: Since the fuel tank lines are nice and long, I didn't even have to rotate the fill bucket to orient the lines toward the front of the car. I cut the end of the lines off and connected the nylon tank lines to my existing hard lines using a couple of "air line hose solid brass coupler hose barb type", hose clamps and fuel injection hose from NAPA. It turns out the ID of the lines factory fuel tank lines are 5/16" and 1/4" exactly the same as my original Datsun lines. I also gutted the regulator since my LT1 has a regulator on the fuel rail. It runs great and there's no fuel pump noise. The wiring is a breeze; you only need the wires from one connector, two for the fuel pump and two for the gauge. All in all, a nice inexpensive and fairly simple upgrade.

I got the tank and I''ve already removed the old one and cut out the spare tire well. What can I use to connect the factory fuel lines to my hard lines? Jeromio's web page still states that "The connection of the plastic ends to the aluminum hardlines is yet to be worked out", but his conversion is done now. I'm wondering if this item will work, but I can't find much information about it. http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedproductdescription.asp?1549

It goes for $269.95. http://www.zcarparts.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=30-7055

Can someone let me know if I really need to gut the regulator or not? Would it hurt anything if I have one on the fuel rail and another in the tank on the return line? Wheelman, I don't think the fuel lines will limit my fuel flow enough to make a difference. If I'm wrong here, someone let me know; it seems to be flowing fine with them in my current setup.

Great news:rockon: ! I remember the feeling, as it wasn't too long ago that I fired mine up for the first time as well. I think my neighbors are starting to get a little unhappy with me running my open headers and burning out on my cul-de-sac. My LS1 tank should get here tomorrow, and once that's installed I will be able to properly install the complete exhaust. Definitely check your vacuum lines. Once I forgot to reconnect my vacuum line to the brake booster after mucking with the brakes, and it would only run for a couple of seconds.

Welcome to HybridZ, and good luck with your Hybridization! Where did you find the sand in your engine? I would think that you have a possibility of sand getting into the combustion chamber of any cylinder that had the intake valve completely or partially open. If this is possible I don't know how you could get around having to remove your heads:icon56: . Is there sand in the crankcase?

For those of you looking at performing this same conversion, Here's a thread that has a lot of information. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=96151 The part that was gutted was the regulator. My engine has a regulator on the fuel rail as well, so maybe I need to do this gutting as well? My tank should be arriving this Thursday, so if any of you running this setup can provide me with any information I would appreciate it.

Is this the grill you are looking for? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7973234528&category=33645&sspagename=WDVW It's currently at $119.50 and there's only 5 hours left.