Bartman

Thanks, hopefully I'll be seeing these displays tomorrow. Speaking of Bling-Bling, did anyone ever get the right colored bulbs installed and working in these gauges?

I'm not changing the geometry of my existing seat belt system, and it will be safer than what I have now. The stock shoulder belts in my 73 240Z do not retract and don't mount permanently to the lap belt. I tried wearing it at first, but it's very uncomfortable and it doesn't even stay together! The stock 260Z seat belt shoulder belts are mounted with a rivet to the lap belt, so the only change is that it will be mounted with a nut and bolt rather than a rivet. I think that with the proper bolt and nut (which will be out of view in the loop of the seat belt webbing) will not compromise the strength of the system. If I ever decide to make my car more into a race car than a street car I can upgrade the seats and belts to support a 4-point system. I think for my application this system will be a nice improvement that will allow me to be more secure by being able to use the shoulder belts in addition to just the lap belts I am wearing now.

I have the same tach and speedo, and I'm planning on hooking them up this weekend. I got the speedo used and I have a question about the odometer on it. Does it have a regular odometer and a trip odometer, or just a trip odometer? I haven't found any mention about a regular odometer anywhere, but the mechanical speedo's have both, so i'm hoping this one has both as well. If it has both, then does the display show just one at a time...the display area looks like it would be too small to display them together.

I purchased a set of complete seat belts from a 260Z. The shoulder retractors work great and they should bolt up to the same location as my non-retractable shoulder belts. I just need to remove the rivet holding the 260Z shoulder belt to the lap belt, and bolt the 260Z shoulder belt to my existing 240Z lap belt. I'll let you know how it works.

I think the rolling exemption has been stopped and that only '75 and older vehicles are (and will ever be) exempt. The engine choice depends on what you like best. Just make sure it's from a later model car and you keep all the smog equipment with it.

You scared me at first:toetap05: . Glad to hear it's running and that your close to driving it. I know how thrilled I was to get my beast to start for the first time...and you had to wait much longer than I did. Congratulations:cheers: P.S. - Let your son be the first one to ride with you (it may help him get over having the shop finish your father and son project). Better yet (if he's old enough), let him drive it.

Thanks for all the input on the speedo, I got both the Speedo and the Tach out last night. Nullbound, Your drawing and description were spot on. Even though I swear it wasn't there the first time I looked:shock: , Wick Humble has a good pic on page 122 of his book (I guess the first time I was reading the text and not looking at the pic's). The wing nuts were pretty tight and the space was very limited, but I finally managed to coax them out without removing the dash. P.S. - If I don't hear anything else about the glove box door, I'll go down the piano hinge route.

You must have done a great job lurking, because you're already pretty far along. What are your plans (rear end, fuel tank, wheels, other modifications, etc?

Tim, Have you checked out the opelgt web site? They have a forum on engine swaps http://www.opelgt.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=1124

I was thinking about that . Have you...or anyone else...used one in this application before?

They are for sale, though I haven't listed them yet. I would like to sell the complete exhaust system, but I'm open to offers.

How 'bout some custom made long tube tri-y 1.75" into 2.25" into 3" collector headers into a single 3" exhaust with a Dynomax muffler? I removed this system from my stock LT1 to improve my ground clearance.

thanks for all the info, I'll feel around back there and see what i can find. I definitely don't want to remove the dash:twisted: . Anyone have any ideas on the glove box hinges?

Thanks guys, is there just one thumb nut at the bottom? I've been trying to feel around back there and I just haven't found it yet:confused2 .

Okay I've searched here and other sites, and I can't find the answers to a couple of questions: 1. How do you remove the speedometer without removing the dash? Access seems pretty limited, but I know some of you have done this to install your aftermarket gauges. 2. The glove box door (at least mine) has 3 plastic pieces that serve as hinges and they're all broken. Can I fix them somehow or do I need to replace the whole piece? This piece is the entire inner side of the glove box door extending into where it attaches to the bottom of the glove box opening. I have a 73 240Z.

In case you want to see more pic's of the exhaust system, I posted some more on my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~570z/Exhaust.htm The LCA's were custom made by Tim240Z

I have a similar setup as 2126, but my proportioning valve was in the engine compartment and the 3 way connector in the rear is just that (no proportioning). I removed the proportioning valve, added a Wilwood proportioning valve unit in the front and then used the rear 3 way connector from a 72 to split the brakes to my upgraded front disk brakes (4 x 4 Toyota Vented units). My car is a 73 by the way.

Is it alright for my to put links on my personal web site to pictures that I have in my HybridZ gallery?

I haven't updated my web site yet, but I posted pic's from the new exhaust a week or so ago.

I was there not too long ago, but your schedule seems awfully ambitious. I removed the entire front suspension while I was at it, and replaced the tie rods, ball joints, installed all new eurethane bushings, and upgraded brakes. It took a lot of work to clean up the engine bay and get it ready for paint. http://home.earthlink.net/~570z/images/before.JPG Here you can see what it looks like after cleaning up, painting and installing an LT1. http://home.earthlink.net/~570z/images/finishedEngine1.JPG I still have the interior to finish as well as exterior body and paint, and I doubt if I will be done before October.

I decide to try and make my existing fuel gauge work. Here's a shot of the stock LS1 fuel bucket with the sending unit: I decided to try and remove the complete sending unit and replace it with the one from my original datsun tank. At first it didn't look like it would work, but a little thought and some careful cutting with a cut-off wheel and I finally got it mounted and able to fit in the existing opening: I also had to change the bends in the float arm. All in all I'm happy to have a working fuel gauge again.