Bartman

I was looking through my latest issue of "Hot Rod" last night and I found an interesting article on putting a carb on a Gen III Chevy V8. GM Performance has a single plane intake and Edelbrock makes a dual plane for them. These intakes work on all Gen III's including truck engines, LS1's, LS6's, etc. They made 530 hp in an LS6 with a new stick and a Holley carb mounted on a spacer. Here's a link to the Edelbrock package that includes a wiring harness and an electronic Timing Control Module which works with OE sensors to fire the coil-on-plug ignition system. http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/index.html Just another option for those of you that don't want Fuel Injection.

In your original post you mentioned that it "fits great in the fenders" and you were worried about making the tire stick out past the fender. A couple of people have mentioned getting 8" springs instead of 10" ones. It seems like a better solution than spacers and it would keep the current fit in the fenders.

1989: My situation – single, self-employed, hitting the bars every night, Jaguar XKE, New S10 4x4 Blazer, New Honda v65 Sabre, no worries. 1995: Married, two children, two part-time low paying jobs, going back to school, house with mortgage, no car, old beaten up Suzuki Katana 650. 2004: still married, good job, mini-van, 4-door sedan, added on a new garage in my backyard and bought a 73 240Z. Present day: I’ve bought an LT1, T56, Q45 LSD, coilovers, new rims, disc brake conversion, and ton’s of other stuff that still needs to be installed. The story is, life changes…adjust. Who knows what will happen tomorrow. It took many years, but now I’m able to do something I always wanted to do. A nice unique sports car with a V8 and a six-speed, done the way I want it. If you really want to put a V8 in your Z, you can stash away a little money here and there and someday you’ll be able to do it. It may not be the time frame you wanted, but it makes it that much better when you’re able to finally able to swing it. Just hang in there.

There's a 1979 Z for sale on eBay that used to have a turbine jet engine in it. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=4516977644&category=6187 There must be an interesting story behind this car. since the auction is ending soon, here's the vehicle description: If You were going to put an Allison/Rolls Royce T-63 700 200 or 250 into a Datsun 280ZX this is the car, I have removed the turbine and ignitor box, other than that its ready to go. I have put approx 2500 miles on this little car and beleive its street legal except for this little excessive noise issue [ just kidding, You can hear the radio/CD player just fine and carry on a normal conversation. Included is a built GM 700R4 transmission which I promptly damaged while running to low of line pressure with too much torque @ the Salt Flats, I removed the transmission and ran direct for the last 1500 miles, [this works well as the T-63 has a free turbine which acts as a torgue converter] Tires, and shocks have 2500 miles on them, would like this little car to go to a good home, Shipping or hauling is the responsibility of the Buyer, 25 % down within 3 days of the end of the auction, balance and pick up within 2 weeks of end of auction. call me @ 515-210-9400 or email me @ sheldahl7739 with any serious questions. Cashiers check, money order or payapl.

Check out Terry's site (HybridZ handle is blueovalz). BlueOvalZ photo documentation

According to this auction: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7944652033&category=42614&sspagename=WDVW The width should be 32 mm for Honda wheels. I got my adapters from Modern Motorsports (the owner Ross is a member of Hybridz) and they work perfect with Honda (40mm) offset 17x7 wheels with 225/45-17's. I think Ross doesn't like to have his adapter width published, so If you want the width of his adapters you'll have to try and get it directly from him. Here's a picture before I switched to disc brakes (it looks much better with discs)

What is 'ALLDATA online'? I'd like to see the diagram for my 94 LT1.

Here's my '94 Honda ST1100. I ride it to work almost every day 100 miles round trip...over 106,000 miles and still going strong.

John Washington at Reaction Research carries large racing type flares. http://www.reactionresearch.com/280yzgallery.html http://www.reactionresearch.com/940z.html http://www.reactionresearch.com/subtlez.html

There's a new Dash for $800 'buy it now' and $305 current bid. The listing says it's for 260Z 280Z. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=4510333679&category=34206

Be sure and get the JTR Datsun V-8 Conversion Manual. It discusses the possible donor cars that you could use for your swap. http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Datsun_Z_V-8.html You have a wide selection of possible donor car's based on your requirements.

I'm pretty close, but I have too many toys and projects as it is. I have a Honda ST1100, 2 - 240Z's, and I'm in the middle of doing my V8 conversion on one of them. Even with a 3-car garage my wife's mini-van has to be parked on the driveway until I get my new drivetrain out of the way.

I was searching for a donor car with the same requirements. I finally figured out it doesn't really exist. The closest thing I could find was some late 80's early 90's camaro/firebird's with a H.O. 305 with a 5-speed. Not much HP Unless you want a later model with fuel injection, you will probably have to source your engine and transmission separately in order to get a carb and a 5-speed.

I'm wondering if it will be a problem for me at some point. Many sites are blocked, and I imagine that the company keeps track of my internet usage. What the heck, until I get in trouble I'll just keep doing it.

I think vertical doors are pretty cool. I saw this corvette at a local car show a couple of months ago, and it looked really nice . http://www.verticaldoors.com/v2/shopexd.asp?id=66 check out that price They don't have a kit for 240Z's but they have one for a 350Z.

Thanks for all the replies! I got one installed Sunday, and I was careful not to damage the strut cartridge shaft. I also: Cleaned up my lower perch removal cut to allow the top of the adjustable coilover sleeve to sit just below the gland nut. Added ATF to the strut before installing cartridge Ensured that the gland nut to top of strut cartirdge was within spec (The tokico's came with spec's, somewhere around .05" I believe)

Not only has it been slow...sometimes I can't access the site at all. For instance, all yesterday morning. I also got a posting error yesterday afternoon, but I disregarded so that I wouldn't double post.

Looks like it's probably gone already...he posted that he has several good candidates.

Thanks Dan. Should I provide any heatshielding or just bolt it right up to the firewall naked?

It’s definitely good to have a “theme†or plan in mind before starting on your project. The problem is mine keeps changing. At first I thought I was going to do a Z-based Ferrari replica kit car. Then I thought I would do a subtle-Z conversion. Now I’m just keeping the exterior pretty stock with updated wheels and tires that will just fit in the stock fenders. The engine plan was LS1/T56, but after considerable research I determined it was going to be too expensive and time consuming and switched to an LT1/T56. I now have a complete drivetrain waiting to be installed after I finish rebuilding my front suspension, upgrading my brakes, and cleaning up the engine compartment. I still have to figure out the final paint scheme, interior upgrades, etc. It’s good to have a plan, but I think a lot of people make plans and then wind up making changes to their plan. Can anyone else relate to this?

I purchased an HPK251 kit a couple of months ago. The front springs are definitely progressive not linear. You can tell by inspection, and Tokico confirmed this. They also said that the springs are the same in both kits. I wound up reselling my kit and purchasing coilovers. As long as you are okay with getting progressive springs, then it's probably a good deal. Search for discussions in regards to progressive springs and you'll find a great deal of posts regarding them.

What I'm trying to figure out is how to torque the gland nut. I can tighten it with a pipe wrench, but how can i torque it correctly? The link doesn't mention how to get 45 ft lbs. of torque using a pipe wrench. Do you just guesstimate?

I've searched and found a lot of people had trouble removing the gland nuts from their struts (luckily I was able to remove mine fairly easily). What I haven't found is how to install new ones. I am in the process of putting my front suspension back together and the front gland nuts need to be torqued down. The service manual talks about a special tool for this, but I was wondering if I could get by without this special tool. As always, any advice or suggestions would be appreciated.

I'm doing an LT1 conversion as well (with a T56 6-speed) into my 73 240Z. I'm wondering where I should install my computer. I'm relocating my battery to the back, so I'm wondering if I can put it where the battery used to be. Will I be able to provide enough protection from the heat? I was also thinking of removing the glove box and putting it there. I don't want to remove my heat, ventilation, and stereo.

I'm looking at purchasing a welder as well. I'm not sure what options are important, but there are several at Harbor Freight that may be good deals. Which one do you think I need for a newbie just getting into welding? 90 AMP FLUX WIRE WELDER $119.99 http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=44567 87 AMP, 115 VOLT FLUX AND MIG WELDER $174.99 http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=6098 DUAL MIG WELDER 151 $199.99 http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=6271 They also have a few ARC welders. As Tim posted, shipping is free. Or all of these suck and I should get something else?