NZeder

I have been absent from this forum for a number of years - I am close to Ross age and this is very sad news. As someone sitting at the bottom of the world in New Zealand Ross was great to deal with, I purchased a number of parts over the years from Ross for a number of Zed I have owned - in fact Ross was the first international part purchase I did using the internet many many years ago not long after he first started up MML - always replying to my contact in good time I never had any issues in deal with Ross and MML. Very sad to hear of this news. I only just found out by looking for parts for a new zed project (have 4 kids keeps you our of the shed away from projects) Way to young to go. RIP Ross you were an outstanding supplier to this international community.

i have 2 sets of the factory rings and have been looking for new lenses for a while can't wait until the lens are available. I will take 2sets of the lenses

Thanks guys got all the info I need on the FIA setup wanting to know more about the other options available in period ie the Lockheed and Airheart/Hurst options that Datsun Competition USA where offering.

Hi all, Looking for info, specs and photos of the period setup Datsun Competition USA sold back in period. This is what I know. Partnumber are listed on number of books eg "How to Hot Rod and Race your Datsun" and the Datsun Competition Parts Catalogs. Going by part number the same size rotor was used front and rear and it was 11.5" however I can't find specs on how wide it was. Also there were a few options for the calipers 1. The Airheart/Hurst Caliper setup 2. The AP Caliper setup 3. The FIA Caliper and rotor setup I know the FIA Caliper setup used different rotors but did the Airheart/Hurst setup and the AP setup use the same rotors? If anyone can assist with info, spec and ideally photos of the setups on the car - that would help me with my application locally here in New Zealand to get my car approved as a period spec setup. Also I believe someone was at some point was selling a JFZ setup/kit for the Z if anyone has info/spec and photos of these JFZ setups that would also help no end at all. I am building my car to 75 spec as that was when Nissan had the L28 approved in the S30 chassis. Please PM me or post here or if you want to email me directly please PM for email details. Regards Mike, New Zealand.

Interesting you say that - I recall seeing a pic of that too. I have recently read the FIA HTP Appendix K rules and it states the following So I guess the original supplier = Sumitomo. The original part is the MK63 which uses 4 x 41.3 pistons and a 104mm pad. So the replica part is from the original supplier aka Sumitomo it is a 4 pot 42.8mm and 105mm pad. I guess the FIA is technically ok with that then as close enough given both are cast iron etc.

I am going to be running a RB on triple carbs...when I get a round to working the car again. With regards to the timing I have a few options/ideas that I will work on. 1 a dizzy setup. For this I plan to get a RB30e dizzy and strip that and see if I can mate that with the cas. 2. Use the electromotive xdi crank trigger wasted spark. 3. Use a microsquirt with crank trigger and 3 external coil drivers in wasted spark mode. This does also give the option of going to efi via batch injection.

I am confused. In your post you mention the part number for the z31 diff flange as 38210-y0800 then in your next post is the image. The #1 in the image looks like 38210-10v00 to me ie the round flange with the square bolt pattern--- see here for info on the 2 type of z31 driveshaft and diff flange setup. http://www.xenonz31....eshaftinfo.html

wow I posted about this 2 years earlier...just all my pictures in my post went south and as the post was so old I could not go back and edit the post to update the image links. Here is the thread I posted my findings just with out pictures:( http://forums.hybrid...ssue/page_st_60 See post 61 (the images are there still just the thumbnail images have been lost...) One thing that is different is I found WD21 aka your pathfinder and the Nissan Terrano V6 I got my donor axles from did not have tripod joints on either end. I only found the tripod on the 3x2 end of the Terrano TD27 power vehicles. These 3x2 WD21 axles have a smaller diameter on this one tripod end. I believe Wheelman found a tripod joint inside the 5 star end of the V6 axle, but it was discovered to share the same diameter and spline count as the other end aka both match the diameter and spline of the z31 300zxt shaft. What Wheelman did was put both ends of the z31 300zxt on to this WD21 V6 axle then made a space to effectively lengthen the overall shaft so it would fit correctly. I did not do this I am using shortnose R200 plugins that match my LSD centre, in my case a 5 x star plugin then I swapped the z31 300zxt outer aka 4 bolt joint on the other end of the WD21 axle, this is bolted to the MM adaptors. The end result is the same a shorter CV axle. I do show in the picture in the old post a complete axle setup using the 3x2 not the 5x1 star I am using but they are the same length.

Old thread but thought I would say I recently ordered a new LD28 pump from Nissan - it came from Nissan in Japan to the local dealership here in Auckland NZ. First it was very very $$ but it is 100% the correct item, new in the box with the larger cast impeller shown above in the post by ozconnection. So they can still be had from Nissan as I recently got one.

might be a little off topic, if a new head was to be cast why has no body mensioned a re cast of the LY heads or the also very rare FIA L6 heads, as both of these type of heads were used in period by Nissan and this would allow them to be used in classic/historical racing classes. Ok there a few sticking points, first you have get hold of one of these rare items then after selling all you internal organs for it then you have to cut it up so you can model it. Now you have to sell your limbs so you can get it recast.....so this is why it has not happened

Pete, good to see you RB/L6 hybrid posted on here. I would love one of your kits but with my recent purchase that will have to wait. I would love to see if the setup could be chain driven however that has a number of issue in is self, or how about gear driven now that would very different. I know us downunder are lucky to have RB30's and I see those kits for those not so lucky that have a plate and new liners to get the extra block height has anyone done that/thought of doing the same to the L6 blocks? I have said this before (can't remember which forum now) but kiwi cylinder heads here in Auckland cast a number of heads including the Nissan 4 cylinder crossflow head (z20/z22/z24 not the best head but) it makes me think if it could be possible to make a L6 crossflow head.

I am interested to know how much brake clearance there is on the RK-R I like the sizing 15x8 +10 (ET10)

wow 3 weeks and I have not gone out to the shed..... can't wait for the weather to warm up a bit here. Well my setup is not for a/c but that should be easy to do if that is what you want. I need to get this job done and ticked off the list.

Ok I got the AirCon amplifier that controls the actuator that hooks into the water tap (and the blend/air mixing door on the factory later model Nissan's). I have traced out the wiring and got the actuator working using a cable to open close the stock water tap. So all actuators are installed/mounted, I need to tidy up the looms for each part then I will paint up the brackets and document the install with pictures and a write up.

Well it has been a while. It is winter here now and the race season is over so I have been back out to the shed. I am almost complete with my later model Nissan control conversion. I have mounted the recycle actuator and that works perfect. I have mounted another of the standard recycle actuators on the foot/cabin doors and that works perfect. And I have mounted the standard actuator (which on the donor car does Vent, Vent/foot (aka bi-level), Foot, Foot/Def and Def aka 5 positions) to the standard blend door. I have had to alter the control circuit so the standard actuator works just like the stock cable setup - ie Vent, Bi-Level and full closed. I also had to make my own circuit to control the extra actuator for the foot/cabin door and all works as I want. I also have another heater control panel that uses an actuator to control the water tap - I am going to give that a go to, but I need to go back to the pick-a-part wrecker and get the AirCon Amplifier as this drives this actuator - I could build my own circuit again as I have that worked out but it might be easier/faster to just use the standard Nissan item. I will update this post again once that is sorted....watch this space.

That explains the sale of the L28ET parts off then There is a 280zx in Japan fitted with an RB30D (triple DCOE carbs) but like you say not too many S130 with the RB26DET conversion.

Those seats above (first post) are Autolook - made in Japan and they are still available at a cost (but this is stated above in the post from HS30-H). They make them in small batches at a time - 20 sets. There are replica items around that come out of China but still not cheap - I bit of labour to make at a guess. I was keen for some but the cost of purchasing either the real Autolook (licensed repro) or the China copy/replica + shipping and import taxes to me here in New Zealand - I opted to get some local seat manufacture make me a custom sets based on their Kevlar shells and a similar look.

Could not agree more. L20ET stock level RPM with some bolt on mods and good ECU and you will be away. As these cars were L20ET I don't see you will have to many issues cert wise either. ARGO_RB - there is a L20ET turbo manifold on trademe right now too so that will help with the start of the project and $100 no reserve auction here is the link http://www.trademe.c...n-355978817.htm Also check out Daniel's other listing he has a lot of what you would require + he has been running a L28ET for a few years now so would be a good get his feedback also (For those State side L28ET are not available here in NZ so we make them up using L20ET parts and L28 )

double post see below

Guys I am talking about NZD here - yes you might be able to do in the US for under $5K but here in NZ it is a big ask - not impossible just a big ask for 200HP at the wheels from a L26 or L28 with just $5K to spend on N/A. Head work is what is required and that is going to cost around $2K for the labour from a good shop that knows zed stuff. And that is with you purchasing and importing the new valves etc ie not in the $2K cost. Then a bottom end rebuild - and if you are replacing parts then that will add to the cost. It is impossible to find L26/28 pistons with out a dish locally so again you have to import flat-tops from Oz or the US. If just a hone etc that will keep the cost down (ie no over bore) and bearings etc. $1000 there is parts and labour. Balancing will cost $500-1000 at a guess so that is $2K so now at $4K for the build (again assumes you don't know someone in the trade that owes you a favour or you don't have access to the tools/machines/equipment). Now you start to look at the bits on the side of the motor that will help with the HP goals. Carbs (whatever you choice, SU (round or flat tops) should be setup to match the head work), exhaust again like the carbs - to match head work and cam to get the most out of the system. That will eat the last $1k (you can spend that on the extractors locally here in NZ for the good sets the best sets will be $500 more then if you ceramic coat at least $500 more, and that is the cheaper stuff that can come off on a dyno - the good stuff will be $900) Now if you do it yourself these number will be very different. Like Tony D has stated you could just get a L20ET/RB20DET give it a fresh'n up and don't balancing then you get a good ECU and do the turbo things then 200HP should be easy for same $. However again you will be spending $ on getting either road legal here in NZ via the certification process and that could be anything from $500-1000 in cert fees/checks let along the changes they might get you to do the drive line, suspension/brakes. So I am looking at this not just from the engine point of view but the project as a whole $5K for 200HP and road legal is a big ask - period no matter what engine is chosen due the certification process that is required - more or less will be required depending on the engine chosen etc. I believe a number of guys in Oz have had good success with RB30E in turbo form and the 30E head seems to flow good in turbo apps.

True I did not explain my thought process for the extra 200cc. I have seen a few L24/26 (P30)taken out to the 86mm bore and that setup does work well. Again depends on how much valve area you are going for 86mm might not be enough either With his budget in mind of around $5K NZD this will be the limiting factor in this build. My last L28 build was a 90mm bore with L28 stock aka 3015cc using some cast pistons I did a deal on from Japan so the pistons were RRP $800USD (not what I paid), they were top quality and weight only 30g more than a mates JE forged items (his are 87.5mm). These were designed for the L28 crank and L24 rods so that was my setup. By the time I prep'ed the L20A (pre 79 L20a = same rods as the L24) rods (had them modified to take RB30 little end bush as these are nice readily available) that was $650 NZD and I could have just purchase some new L24 spec H-Beams from MaxspeedingRods for that coin - never mind live and learn. My L28 crank was knife edges, balanced blah blah another $1000, new bearings, sonic testing, overbore and having a good shop setup the bottom end for me another $3K So basically that is over his budget already before we started on the head or the accessories to go with it - headers, triples (well throttle bodies is what I had for this engine now going on to my new setup) this engine goal was between 230HP-250HP with the EFI setup. I moved this engine on before I completed it and the new owner installed his 40mm triples (as that is all he has) and its first dyno outing for turning it put down 215HP at the wheels. There is still a lot of potential in that engine and more development to come if budget permit (he will be breaking his gearbox next is my guess) Again your budget will limit your HP goals if you have nothing to start with - ie need to purchase a L28, carbs, headers, fuel system upgrades etc. This is going into a R30 so that will be setup for EFI so you will need to change the fuel pump to a lower pressure item so that is extra $. If however $5K will build a good strong reliable L26/L28 that would be a good fast road engine which is your goal. My first 240z race car was an L28 stock bottom end, a cam that back in the 90's was known as the Taupo cam as it worked well around the Taupo track (reads just a good mid/mild cam with good pull out of the corners) some triple 40mm Mikuni's or Webers (I had both on the car at different times) and some headers from Custom Chambers here in Auckland going to a 2.5" single system. So this is the closet car that I have owned that fits the bill (others were 3.2 or stock L24/26 setups or even L28 EFI in 280zx) for your goal. So were am I going with this......this 240z was an auto too, it was very good on the road, fast and fun to drive. On the track well that was a different story, the auto was the big handicap. I see you would like around 200RWHP well that auto 240z I had back in the late 90's made a grand total of 105hp at the wheels that was all vs most over zed on the same dyno shoot out that night that made 160-180HP with sim mods (usually 45mm carbs) but then it was 6 seasons old, very fumy and blew up 10months later at the drags. The point I have owned motorbikes that almost made as much power but this auto zed was a lot of fun on the road and was fast enough to break the law and get you into trouble. You will also need to get the engine update/install certified as it will be larger than the original so will fall into requires an engineering cert for it to be road legal here in NZ so that is going to cost you anything between $400-600 at a guess. Also a cert is required if you increase the engine output by 20% and you will have to have a drive shaft hoop installed. The list goes on. So if you have to do that you might as well just purchase one of the many FJ20T on trademe for $1500, get the cert work done for that conversion - should not be to hard as you can prove Nissan installed those in that model from the factory, so a cert might not even be required (unlike fitting a L26/28 which was never factor fitted that I am aware of) this has more HP potential going forward. So in my opinion (which you can ignore if you wish ) to your statement is no it is not enough for a L6 build to make 200HP at the wheels here in NZ with current cost of parts/labour. $1200-1500 does not seem to mater if 40mm or 44/45mm. New items will set you back $2500-3000is If you want something different to the normal RB power R31/R30 that are around then stick with the L6. If you are after HP well you will want $$ for L6 in NA form. Hell whatever you do L6, RB, FJ it will all cost money and you can't take it with you right - so spend away

yes I seriously I think 200cc will make that much of a difference for the same reason you stated the bore size I did not go into that as I thought he could look that up him self. We all know the performance is in the head/flow and to get the valve area required you want a larger bore. Nissan knew that too. So why have a dig a me. Re the flat-top I still have mine I was trying to help him out from a local point of view - not too many good SU's guys down here and if you need to get support for them the 240z better option. I would personally go triples, more displacement, lighter rods/pistons and spend $$ with a good L6 head guy for HP chasing.

L28 can be found in NZ I have owned/purchased/sold a number - all out now sold the last one 12 months ago. There was is one on trademe right now if you look for $1 with a turbo tappet cover (you on sell that to get some of the purchase cost of the engine back) Get an L28 the extra 200cc will help with your power goals. One thing you did not state is your budget. Good HP = good work and good work will cost $$ if you don't/can't do it your self. You will want to balance the rotating mass and starting with 30+ year old rods not ideal. For the cost of prep'n rods just purchase some new items - there are number of suppliers that do L24 and L28 sizing. You ideally also what nice light slugs (aka pistons) the list goes on. But first if you have the stock 260z SU bin them they will be flat tops - get some 240z items if you can find some (now they are hard to get here in NZ these days). Most of this stuff has been covered over and over again on this site and others - read read read and then read some more - get a good engine builder involved if you can't do it your self and have a budget before you start and try and stick to it. You can spend anything from $1000 - $8000 (including purchasing triples, new headers, clutch/flywheel etc for this high end price)

Yes you can get Magnesium Watanabes but they are $$ but lighter about 2KG a rim for the 15x9 Magnesium wheels in R Type, sizing a price http://www.rs-watana...jp/pay/mg8r.htm Aluminum wheels in R Type, sizing a price http://www.rs-watana...jp/pay/al8r.htm

Your S13 240sx = our 180sx or 200sx or Silvia (depending on engine size and if imported from Japan or not) our Maxima that I got the controls from is a J30 the controls look like this (which is the same controls as the S13 I believe) And the maxima looks like this I have got side tracked on another project on my car but I will get back to this later and post more - I removed the unit like that shown above, the actuators and the parts of the loom I required. These control panels have the ECU/Control module build into it - so the wiring is only power and actuators and Fan etc.