NZeder

put the insides from a more modern tach that is designed the more common negative coil hock up (this is what most ECU replicate) not the inductive loop from the positive side of the coil like the stock 240z/260z points tach. I believe a number have used the internals from a 280ZX with great success.

All sounds right to me - AREA is only used for cooling in the braking surface after the work. After all a brakes job is thermal transfer of the work. Well this is my simple understanding of it all. In a car = engine turns thermal energy ie the burning of fuel into motion via the power stroke in the ICE. The brakes take the motion and turns that into heat via the u (coeff. of friction between the materials and the force applied) the area comes into play in allowing these to cool down quicker ready for the next application of the brake and thus allowing better motion to heat transfer of energy. As some might know after x laps on standard brakes they stop working as they are not cooling quick enough = less motion to heat (as the heat is already there) and the u can no long provide the correct balance of F and N which equals F.......Far out that was one close almost a N.......Nasty crash better get something the help with U.......underpants replacement......= get better brakes so we can put the FuN back in the equation.

Those look like UK based Compomotive ML rims and my guess would be 15x7 with a 205/60/15

I found this pic on a 240sx forum - shows the Birfield 5x1 not the tri-pod like you guys have - so might be an after market thing I am thinking

Were they OEM? If yes then maybe I found something different of the JDM WD21 I got my axles from. I see in the CV catalogues that Pathfinder and Z32 share the same aftermarket replacement partnumber so I think it might be time for me to hit my copy of fast and see what I can find out with regards to the OEM stuff.

I think it might be an aftermarket vs OEM thing. What size is the shaft/spline this tripod goes on ie is it the same size as the wheel end of the shaft - on the OEM axles I have it is.

Ok Pete S have found some thing different that I did not know. Looks like there are different axles for you guys in the US vs what I got secondhand here in New Zealand. See here for the thread Pete S started http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=148954

I found this on the EMPI catalogue - not sure if the 27 spline is on the same size diameter but might be worth a look given looks the US axles are different to this part of the world aka JDM sourced. This is EMPI number 87-9522 and is used on the following models Toyota Camry 4cyl AWD 1988 Front inboard Toyota Camry 6cyl 88-93 inboard Toyota Celica All Trac 88-93, Front inboard Lexus E250 90-91 inboard Lexus E300 92-93 inboard See pic attached - you can see this would be easy to make an adaptor to whatever companion flange you have - assuming it will go on the other end of the alxes you have with the 5x1 (tripod - that has thrown me for sure) at the diff end.

Wow that is different. Inside my 5x1 axles from my JDM Terrano (WD21 pathfinder) is a race and cage setup with 6 ball bearing not a tri-pod like you have shown. I will get some pics for you.....just found this on my harddrive (must have taken it when I pulled them apart)

No they are same inside as the 5x1 ie they use the same race, cage and ball bearing sizing ie 6 of the suckers. So the 4x1 Z31T is a birfield CV like the 5x1 inboard of the pathfinder The tripods are the 3x2 setups. I hope to have my axles modified in the coming days, I have new CV boots so I will be assembling these shafts in the coming weeks (this weekend is a race weekend so no time in the garage) and I will post pics etc. I have tried to source the 5x1 EMPI 87-9096 joints new locally here in NZ but no-one has them or can get them so I have to use my secondhand units and just rebuild them with new boots etc. I would consider building 5x1 at each end if I could get new 5x1 parts locally - I would just have the companion flange redrilled to the 5x1 (same PCD as the Z31T 4x1 so one hole is already there)

Thought about it - think about it often. Ever since my hunt for a setup that could use a stock axle that was a little shorter than the total Z31T axles. For now I am building a hybrid Pathfinder 5x1 with 4x1 300zxt at the wheel end so I can use the MMS billet companion flanges I already have. But I was thinking it might be possible to do as you state - use the pathfinder 5x1 at one end (the diff end - I have collected 3 sets of the 5x1 diff inputs from open shortnose R200 from R32 RB20DE powered cars, and one set of the 5x1 VLSD) then as you suggest a custom/modified pathfinder wheel end so it bolts to the stock flange. Might get to this one day....maybe.

I believe this is due to the lower angles that the tripods support so having tripods at both ends would not allow much movement. tripods typically have around 15-18 degrees of movement were as the Birfield setups (typical 6 ball bearing CV joint) has 40 degrees. A Double Offset (used on the wheel side of the Z31 300ZXT axles) is around 23-25 degrees. Hope this helps

just noticed this post - but did you know you can use a RB torque plate on the L6 too Same bore spacing and head bolt pattern this has been covered on this site before (or did I post that on CZCC it was a few years back now)

What centre bore did you order these with? I had the same size on my 71 240z fitted with no issues at all. They make the RB-R with different centre bore sizing you need the 73mm version not the 67mm version

That is OZ we and go wider here in NZ

Depends on your location but here in NZ it is illegal to cut springs period.

yes but for you guys state side that have the steering wheel on the other side of the car - will these bad boys work?

I have not pulled apart my Zed rack but I have pulled a part a UK Mark II Escort rack and they are the same design and they have the spring in the end of the rack - then the bushing then the rack end. The Escort guys replace the plastic bush with a brass/metal unit as an upgrade. So I would say yes the spring is needed and is missing from your rack - this would keep some tension on the bush and ensure it up against the rack ends ball.

The OBX that I purchased what you have stated/found out above is true. So the stock inputs will work and you will need to get some spacers for the M12 vs M10 this assumes your R200 is the early type that has the M10 - more common than the long nose M12 version (I have not found one yet and that includes getting long nose R200 from a number of late model JDM saloon cars ie 83-85 Nissan Laurel's etc)

Ok using the same site I thought I would just to a quick search for the specs on the Sub leg racks that Tony has. 90-95 use a inner tie-rod (rack end) with the following specs. Moog EV257 = M14x1.5 at both ends they are 11.47" long (291.34mm) So looking at this looks like the Tercel EV165 or EV168 depending on the length required will work with these 90-95 racks. If others have info on the racks they have I am sure I can do a quick search and get a solution for you too.

Ok using all the websites I have found for tie-rod ends over the past 12 months and a bit of quick search. I found this info. First looking at the sites I find the Tercel had two rack ends - depending on the model. 80-82 = Moog EV165 = 161mm long with M14x1.5 at both ends (not the 1.25 as stated above) and 83-88 = Moog EV168 = 139mm long with M14x1.5 at both ends (again not the 1.25 stated) Also for info the stock 240/260/280z (s30) tie rod is Moog ES2109R for RI thread and ES2110R for the LI Thread. They have a M14x1.5 for the rack end connection and M12x1.25 for the nut on top of the tapper which has the following specs .604 to 520 and they are 8.14" Long or 206.7mm for those who use the metric system. Hope this clears some info up

Excellent work - so what is the replacement for the zed given you have stated this engine will now move into a shell more suited to doing 7's (don't blame you one bit given the tracks here in NZ and the resent crashes 1/2 or last 1/2 of the track) It would be one hell of ride if it goes wrong with just a 6 point cage in there. So I assume the current cage does not tie to the front struts or even have a bar under the dash - I have seen this on many a zed here in NZ and having owned a race car with a cage setup like this I would want one that has a bar under the dash and that ties the into the front struts for a circuit car but a drag car doing 7's well tube the whole whole thing....

oops my bad sorry just spotted 300zx and missed the TT

Posted on this site a number of times before but this might help see

For those down under I believe CastleMainRodShop do a rear sump for the RB20/25/30 bottom - not sure if it is just modified front sump (ie cut and move) or not.