NZeder

I think the reason for these head to be the choice in Oz is for the following reasons. 1. They are available - ie they were sold on the Oz spec R30 with the L24e engine. Unlike the US which got the N47 on the same bottom end. 2. They have a P90a type heart shape but without the larger cc of the P90a 3. They have use the N42/E88 length valve not like the P90a which has a different length So they are kind of the best of a N42 with the best of P90a but with small valves = no welding for a performance head job, just install larger valves and a cam etc. This is just what I am lead to believe so not 100% if these are the reasons they are used in Oz but this make sense to me anyway.

Ok the L20a is commonly used to describe the twin SU or single downdraught carb'd 2L L6. The L20E as you might guess is the same engine ie 2L L6 but with EFI. Much like there is L28 and L28E (L28 is usually found here in NZ in Nissan Patrol). As I posted earlier there is 2 types of L20E that I know of the pre 79 and post 79 which have the differences stated above. I guess there might be other differences like those for the early N42 and later N42 L28 blocks but I don't know what they are if any Cheers Mike

One thing I did like about the first/maroon scheme was that on the thread icon there was a little green part - this showed you that you had posted to this thread. With this current colour (for you US boys that is color) scheme I can't seem to notice any differences....maybe I need to look harder Ok ignore this post - I think I found it - I have circled it in red in the attached image.

get a L20ET oil pump it is the same as the turbo pump the guys in the US are talking about I have few second hand units but given the number of L20ET power cars here in NZ you should be able to get a local replacement new I would have thought.

Check the Compression height of the pistons. If it is a pre 79 L20a it should have 40.1mm CH and if post 79 it will have 38.1mm as the rod length was changed from the 133mm on the pre 79 (ie same rod as the L24) to a longer 135mm. However the Longer 135mm items run a smaller big and little end so that will be a give away also. The big end journal should be 53mm and little 21mm for the pre 79 engine. The post will have 51mm and 19mm.

So did you sell that RB26 head I sold you as stated before I would have loved to get it back for the same $$ I sold it to you for ie you got a good price so I should get it offered back first for the same $$ How is the build coming along? Have not visited DCONZ for ages so have not check up on the status.

popped into the local Tein supplier on the way into work today to see what they could do. They have some but only in Blue and Yellow - WTF? What is wrong with black. Might have to just get the Yellow given my springs are from an Australian supplier who paints all their springs yellow.

This is how I get to that part. First I select My Settings - then I go to the forum tab and then manage watched topics If I can workout how to attach in a reply I would show you some pics.

When looking at another thread I spotted this pic So I would like to know where does one purchase shock boots like these? I would love a set to go with my AZC coilover conversion - I live in the country here in NZ and my road is not sealed (yes makes for a fun 1+km drive to the house as most of it is off camber and typical NZ gravel roads) but I would like to install some dust boots like those shown in the above pic. A steer in the right direction would be cool Cheers Mike

Getting used to the new look. Just one thing - might pay to change the favicon from the vbulletin item to something more appropriate maybe a little red Z that is one the end of the HybridZ logo.

ok so who makes those. They look great and in 15" sounds like a good idea. Now if they could be had in 15x8 +10 or ZG fitments that would be even better.

FYI you can also get the clear lower turn signal covers from this guy in Australia, he also does rear light lens covers also http://streetlens.com/japanese.html

Or a nice light but powerful power plant like either of these to same V8. Synergy V8 (made here in NZ using motorcycle heads and custom bottom end) or the Hartley V8 (made in the US again using motorcycle heads and custom bottom end) Click images to go the sites.

Are those Hi-spec calipers I spot on the Pug? If you are doing a shell and the chassis is separate why limit your self to the zed suspension, why not build double wish bone setup. Kind of like a Lotus 7/caterham underneath but with a bigger engine and a 240z shell on the top. You could also setup the rear end for the R180 or R200 short nose units as these, at least here in NZ, are common as with all the Skyline, Laurel and other JDM Nissan imports.

The L sticker on my rotor = Left and you will notice that was on the right side suspension lol Re the drilling - the rotor supplier here in NZ supplied them with the 2 sets of patterns - I think he drilled them for my application. The rotor is Mits Evo IV rear rotor 284mm x 20mm with a total hat height of 60.5mm. The centre ID on these rotors is 90mm so that is why I have a locating ring to go from the stock 68mm to the 90mm

Not as nice as Monzter setup but here is my rear setup (still working on the fronts) Forgot to take a pic with the caliper on but it is a twin piston radial mount much like Monzter but not an AP unit by a Hi-Spec Motorport Ultalite2

Given I sold the setup before I put it all together, moved to a 7.25 twin plate as a mate with the same setup in his L6 killed it in a few race meetings, I can't say if swapping the gear would work.

I could not agree more

Given I had an RB flywheel on the back of my last L28 this is what I can confirm. The flywheel bolts up fine. The ring gear has a different TPI so the RB starter is required also. Also the RB flywheel has a locating hole for the pin on the back of the RB crank - my L28 crank does not have this. So if you have a LD28 which does I am not sure if they are in the same PDC or location. I will later this month be doing the reverse and I will be using a L28 flexiplate with a button flywheel on my RB so I will let you know how that goes too.

Kiwi - I forgot to send you pics after I send the dimensions but I remembered I have a few pics of the standard rear sump on my site so here they are

Yes there are few things that are carried over, bore spacing, head bolt location/spacing (good for you engine builder to know so they can use a RB torque plate on the L6), crank/flywheel bolt pattern and spacing. I have even heard that some have managed to get the RB crank griddle to fit in the L6 bottom end with some machining. We kiwi's will give anything a go - hmm that looks good I wonder if that will fit Jim....what do you know if we just cut that, trim it here and there you go a work of art.

The 240mm is listed for the above 10/75 Europe market but the AU/NZ spec stuff all cross references to 225mm - well that I can find via the factory parts catalogue (RHD Export version) that I have. But interesting to know - might have been listed on other L6 power cars in Australia aka 240K, 240c, 260c, 280c and R30 Skylines etc. Me these days I would not install a larger clutch on the back of my L6 or RB but recommend the move to a smaller twin or triple plate item, to get the weight down and in, at the back of the long skipping rope cranks they have (however some might not like the grabbyness of a twin/triple plate - but with high power levels even a 240mm is dead in no time)