Jolane

To remove a tap...if it is in aluminum, such as a head, you can burn the tap out with either a special machine that burns taps, or use chemicals to etch the tap away. You can also sometime beat the tap with a cold chisel and shatter it, and pull the pieces out carefully. I have also successfully used a die grinder and several grinding bits to wittle a tap out...none of these methods are fun though! Joshua

I don't have any pictures, but I ride a '03 Yamaha FZ1, usual mods of course...jet kit, exhaust, yada yada... I used to race, and still have, a '99 Kawasaki KX250, usual mods...revalved suspension, port and polish, etc... Joshua

Mikelly, I had the same trouble with my Fluidamper also on my 383. I put it on a Scat crankshaft, and it was very tight. At the time I put it on though, I did not have my install tool, and instead tried to pull it on with the ARP bolt. I always thought it was so hard because I did not have the tool, but now I am starting to wonder... Anyways, if it happened to me, I would look at using a Keensert instead of a helicoil. A helicoil should work fine for you, but I like Keenserts more. They are basically an adapter, used like a Helicoil, but solid instead. They lock into place by driving two (or more) pins alongside the insert. The problem with Helicoils is thread locker. If you plan to locktite the bolt in place, once you remove it you have a good chance of pulling the helicoil out also. The problem though with Keenserts is that they require a larger tapped hole to work. Don't use a heavy one (as in heavy duty, thicker), and that should help minimize how much material you remove from the crank. Good Luck, I hope this helps... Joshua

I definitely agree with Tim240Z on this...BE CAREFUL! Those bricks can crumble easily, regardless of the way they are placed. I have seen people use them for holding up lifted trucks (yes heavier, but still the same) because their jack stands are not tall enough. I have done it myself when in a crunch. I would highly recommend making something out of wood instead, maybe use a railroad tie or other large peice of lumber. It is not worth being crushed by your car! Joshua

I used Polyurethane bushings on my 280ZX years ago and it definitely made the car drive "tighter". The reason though may have been mostly due to replacing the 20+ year old rubber. The urethane bushings did not squeek, and I did not notice any additional vibration or anything. I did the whole suspension, front and rear. Make sure you get an alignment though. I also found that my ball joints were loose (could see the play in them), and changed them and the tie-rods (inner and outer). You may want to consider this also. Finally, removing the old rubber bushing can be a pain, just be patient if doing it yourself. I used the "drill the rubber several times with a small drill bit, burn with propane torch, pound with a large hammer and drift, hacksaw" method. Good Luck, I hope this helps, Joshua

Mikelly, Thanks for the information. I debated back and forth for weeks about this, especially considering that the T-5 puts the shifter a little further back, where I wanted it. I did at least look at 5speeds website, but never called them. Calling Bubba directly definitely did not give me a warm and fuzzy. I am sure they are an upstanding company, with the following they seem to have. I have dealt with only one person at Keisler, a guy named Gray. Very helpful, friendly, and responsive. I did call them the other day about some questions, and got a different tech, George, and was not very pleased with his shortness and seemingly little attention. If you spoke to him, or someone like him, I completely understand... I also read, and was told by Pete, that the TKO's are very notchy. I am also told that they require a fluid change at 1K miles (I would change the fluid anyways regardless of tranny though) to start shifting better. Through my research I noted a number of comments about notchy feeling shifts for the earlier TKO's. What I remember though is that the new TKO's (TKO-500 and TKO-600) come with a much better stock shifter, supposedly very similar to the Hurst versions. I have been told that the later TKO's are much better, although it is only heresay, as I have not driven my car yet (about a year away I guess). The other big caution I got about the TKO's was about fluid. I guess anything other than Synchromesh (and some Redline product) is a big No No. Supossedly the fluid affects the synchros and can make them swell, making shifting very difficult. The T-5's on the other hand are supposed to shift nice from the get go. The feedback I saw though, albeit probably much heavier cars used for drag racing, was that the trannies would not hold up to the rated levels. I assume (and I know what I get for assuming) that road racing is easier on a tranny than drag racing, as the shock is what kills the tranny. I intend on using this car as a daily driver on the streets with occasional track use... Maybe I am being ignorant, or just hopeful, but I think that TKO will end up working out well. If I don't like it, I will explore the G-Force route. As for your prices and parts list, I only mentioned that you were missing some of the parts so that those reading this later will be aware that the price of a full conversion if expensive...regardless of what tranny you choose. Speed and strength is expensive... Joshua Please follow-up with a report on the G-Force and your impressions after the install.

Thanks for the price list. You mentioned that you are missing the flywheel on there, but what about a tranny mount, master and slave cylinder, hose, pilot bearing, driveshaft yoke, etc? I also looked into the G-Force T-5, but ended up going with the TKO-600. I will comment on that since it is fresh in my head... I paid ~$3300 for everything, including Sachs Clutch, bleedless Hydraulic throw-out bearing (pre-installed), CNC Master Cylinder, Lakewood Bel housing, Poly Tranny mount, Blue Printed and Tested TKO-600 (Not RR), Tranny Yoke, a lot of miscellaneous hardware, and shipping. I bought the flywheel from Scoggin Dickey for ~$180. Together this is a pretty penny, but it should have not problems holding up to the power I expect to give it, and everything is brand new. I choose no shifter handle, and will fabricate my own. Supposedly the stock shifter is supposed to be very good this year. I personally felt more comfortable dealing with Gary @ Keisler Engineering as opposed to Bubba @ G-Force. I am not trying to slander G-Force, but I have read that the torque rating G-Force is giving their kits is bogus (coming from Camaro and Mustang boards). I never read about anyone saying that it is the best around... I did here very good things about the TKO's though on these same boards. I did not want to question the strength of my tranny down the road, my own personal comfort level I guess. The T-56 complete kit, equivalent to what I got except with the 450 lb-ft T-56, was ~$4300 for reference. All of these solutions are a lot of pennies compared to salvage yard trannies. I should be finishing up my engine mounts within the next few evenings, but I can say that the TKO fit great into the tranny tunnel of my 72. I have NOT cut or modified the stock tranny mounting ears on the tunnel walls. Plenty of clearance from that standpoint. I wish the shifter was another 1/2" - 1" back, but don't think the location will cause any issues (I am using a small HEI distributor and it is about 3/8" from the firewall, for clearance reasons). Again, I am not trying to say that the TKO-600 is better, it was just a better choice for my own comfort. A little heavier, hopefully plenty strong enough. Joshua

I am not sure what cam you have, but my experience tells me that it doesn't really matter that you have a roller cam. The issue is materials, whether the cam is steel or iron. I have a Comp Cams Hydraulic Roller in my 383, and when I call ed Comp Cams about what distributor gear to use, the tech guy said that I should use a cast iron distributor gear, such as those supplied on the Holley and MSD distributors. I chose MSD... Call the cam manufacturer and ask your question, they are the best people to ask... after all, they made the cam... I hope this helps, Joshua BTW, I received differing answers when I called MSD and Holley, although both have a Cast Iron gear...

Bondo: Plastic Body Filler... Joshua

I am a little confused, but aren't all the SBC (except the 400), internally balanced, up to and through the LT1 (I am not sure about the LS1). If that is the case, then the Camaro flywheel should be internally balanced. You can buy an internally balanced 16 lb flywheel (GM Performance Parts) new from Scoggin Dickey (cheapest place I found, $180). The internally balanced, 2PC rear seal is P/N 14085720 Externally balanced, 2PC rear seal P/N 3986394 With that said, I don't know what the 1PC part numbers are, but I recall seeing one available online at SD (www.sdpc2000.com) Hope this helps... Joshua 86+ 1-pc seal lightweight flywheel part number is: 14088646

I am not sure what the 60,000 lbs test welding means, but if you are interested in an R200 (3.90), I can give you a few suggestions. 1. I have 2 of these that I will not be using in very good condition. I can part with one very cheap. ( I am right down the road in Alb, west side...) 2. I can point you to where you can go pull your own for a little more than I want for mine. Just trying to help you out. To me, $200 seems like a lot for one of these, especially if it is a just a welded R200... Joshua

I have the Moroso version of the harmonic balancer install tool. I have used it 4 times now and have not had any issues. I also never paid attention to how I used it, and whether it bottomed out or anything. Maybe I am just lucky, maybe it is a better tool? I have not been all that impressed with Pro-Form tools (I do have one of their ring gap grinders). Joshua

Mike, I too just bought a tranny to put behind my full roller 383 SBC. I was also wondering about the clutch. I got the TKO-600 tranny from Keisler Automotive Engineering. They recommended (and supplied) a Sachs clutch. They say it is good to 600 lb-ft. I guess I will find out. I also used their hydraulic throw-out bearing, which is similar to (or the same as) those used in new BMW's, etc. Supposedly very high quality and it doesn't have to be bled. Somehow it is automatic bleeding. Looks very nice, at least how the line goes into the slave (unlike the McLeod which looks weak to me). I don't know if any of this stuff will work with the T-5, but it may be worth a phone call. Great servive, very helpful and friendly. Joshua

Fuel Only...How about the Megasquirt? There is another link around here with a nice discussion going on. Since you have the intake, injectors, and the such, this shouldn't be a hard thing to do. It is about as cheap as it gets for EFI I think... Joshua I have one that has been fully assembled and tested (including stimulator board and relay board) I may be willing to part with...I am going a different direction with a Holley C950.

Thanks gnosez, I did look at Zedd Findings before going through the trouble of cutting the car apart (at the U-Pull yard). That was a fun exercise (with a cordless Sawzall mind you). I appreciate your input, Joshua

The lower rear valance (is that the right name?), I would love to find even a metal replacement skin for it. Mine is mangled from a "friend" moving my parked car with a front end loader... It was perfect before, horrible now. Anyone know where I can find this? I cut the back end off a 260 from the u-pull it, but I would rather start with the correct piece (mine is a 72 240). Sorry for the hijack... Joshua

Although I am not using it in a vehicle, I do have one assembled, fully tested, and "played with". It is a very nice board, and has a lot of software available that is well written IMO. The board was easy (for me) to assemble and test, with no problems to speak of. I would highly recommend buying it from Glen (Glens Garage). Very nice guy, easy to deal with, delivery is a little slow though, but well worth the wait. All the components are bagged and marked, which makes life very easy! I also bought the case from him, which is machined well. I don't particularly like the case as it doesn't seal, but it is okay. I also don't like the DB style connector, but it is what it is. I suppose it works fine, only time will tell. I also got the simulator board (just buy it, well worth the cost). I would personally say it is indispensible... The relay board on the other hand, I was not fond of after assembly. I suppose it should make life easier, but I don't like that it is not covered (you should conformal coat it after testing). I would not order that again if I was doing it over. Now, why am I not using it? I decided to go with the Holley Stealth Ram system with Wideband for my SBC. It is plug and play, basically, and includes much of the same functionality as the MS. By the time I scrounged the parts for the MS to operate, I figured the Holley had an edge in time, and cost was not that much more (buying all new parts that is for the MS). Sure, junk yarding a system together can save money, but did not seem the worth the trouble considering the engine I am using it with (sorta pricey...) As for using the MS with the L6, I think that would be a great way to go. The only thing is figuring out the sensors (other should be able to help here). Maybe one day I will do this, maybe not. I also wanted electronic ignition control...the Holley C950 has this too. Sorry, I am not an actual user, but I hope this helps... Joshua

I have used something very similar, if not the same stuff (mine was 1/8" thick though). Put it in hot water and form to make a very rigid complex shape. Great for molding all sorts of things, never thought about using it for a fiberglass mold though (good idea). I used it directly as it is very stiff, and was being used in a low heat environment... Joshua

Another vote here for the black box (Ignition Module I think it is called). I had one fail very similar to yours, it would start fine, then an hour later, or whatever, nothing... Sometimes it would run fine for months, then all of a sudden it wouldn't start for days. I finally replaced it with a used one and all was well. If you can find a new one, it will probably be expensive. I would think you could replace it with an MSD-6 or something aftermarket to eliminate it completely... Good Luck, electrical problems are frustrating at best... (especially intermittant ones) Joshua

I assume you have a harmonic balancer install tool, right? I am not familiar with the LT1 specifically, but on the earlier small blocks the tool is not optional. Do not use the center bolt for pulling this in (as you have found out, you can really mess up the crankshaft threads). I have a moroso tool from Summit, but Snap-On has them also. The Moroso one works great and the threaded portion is plenty long enough for an earlier SBC. I know this doesn't really help, but please don't hammer on the balancer either. With the correct tool, it should go right on. I would recommend checking the tool you already have and making sure it is properly assembled. Does it have an adapter that threads into a larger threaded shaft? At the worse case, stop and talk to a local engine shop before going further. You may have to helicoil the crankshaft threads, or something like that, if they are stripped now. Sorry I can't be of more help...I feel your pain (I struggled with mine until I bought the right tool). Now it takes about 5 minutes to install if I take my time... Joshua

Congrats! I know how much work that is, and it is definitely something to be proud of. Have you concentrated on any one part of ME (Design, Thermal, Dynamics, Controls, etc...)? Personally, I will be graduating this semester as well, MSME. Joshua

I will be using a TKO600. It has been ordered, and should be on its way any day now. Keisler Engineering out of Tenn. is a great place to deal with. Ask for Gray. Joshua

This is very similar to what I am planning on doing as well in the upcoming few weeks (waiting for a tranny to arrive, engine is ready to go in). The different though is that I want to turn the cross member into a K member for structural reasons. I know space is tight, but I hope to mount the engine from the added legs that form the K, instead of cantilevering the engine from the stock mounts. Another advantage is that now I am not limited to using the stock cross member at all, and therefore might use a different steering rack and can easily change the front suspension geometry... I am starting with some engery suspension engine mounts, which only require a tube mounted horizontally mounted to attach to. I have the tools to cut, weld, machine, etc at my disposal... I realize this doesn't answer your question, more of a brainstorm on my part... Joshua