briann510

-45mm with 3 11/16 backspacing or have to go with a 15x8 with -30 mm offset and 3 7/16 bacdkspacing to clear suspension dont care if it sticks out of fenderwell as thats going to eventually be cut, just dont want interference with stock struts and suspension ive done alot of searching and its confusing as heck with offsets and backspacing measurements. I think I gathered pretty much up to 4" backspacing should fit stock rear suspension.

Our car is so loud with 3" and a Borla Raceline I dont think we will even notice a solid front mount.

Wouldnt a solid front diff mount work?

Oh I could easily mod the cv shafts now that I have them apart but I just dont feel like messing with them anymore plus I already have the halfshafts being rebuilt and have no problem using those and I seriously doubt they will ever break or give me problems. It was an interesting learning experience thats for sure and if I had to do it all over again I wouldnt..LOL.

Yes, I know a coupld guys who did it thatway and their left side wasnt snapped in and caused no problems at all.

Thanks, not going to be doing that as the cv conversion using zxt shafts has been canned.

Yes that was me. Thanks....

I also found a perfectly flat plate with the 6 bolt hole pattern also in my searching. Now whether this is a custom plate someone made or a stock one I dont know.

So with you using a left (drivers) side axle on the right (passenger) side it didnt lock into the circlip right?

If I were to go ahead with this conversion at another time if and when the halfshafts break, what I would do is use 2 short cv axles for EACH side. Even though one of the short ones wouldnt be able to lock into the diff circlip it would still be ok as its not going anywhere. Even though I have them all apart no one carries the required boot/band integrated assy so I still cant complete the cv rebuild.

And here we have the metal band cut down the middle with a dremel cutting wheel, very easy, but make sure NOT to cut near the rubber o-ring on the one side or it will mess up the groove for the new o-ring to seal.... we have success! Alto not quite the easy solution I was hoping for in swapping the stub splines around, and so far I have been unable to find anyone that stock or can get the replacement integrated boot/band piece. And I cant imagine hat a PITA it would be to seal and correctly secrure a new band on as it looks like its done with a speacial machine that probably doesnt exist anymore. New boot and band

Hi Vinh, Ok, heres what we have so far and one is pretty much apart cept for that boot band which we now know is integrated into the rubber inner boot. The band itself still needs to be cut away and you can see how it is pressed kinda under the outer metal main piece and I think the cut is made right along that groove and then that piece is pried out so the tripod slides out. im waiting for an email from someone that has cut his and will edit this when I know for sure. Oh, my wife just got on my case cause I got lube all over her 20% off coupon under the shaft..LOL

Im not sure if id just slide the diff stub in without locking it in place, but its a great idea, and now im considering that. It could move around enough the side seal might leak but i doubt it, also the inner cv partmight rub on the carrier outer seal race area if it pushes in too far and make alot of noise. Ive thought of many work arounds on my problem, but either they arent safe or cost way too much money. This cv conversion was suppose to be an inexpensive 1 hour job. Its turned into a massive headache.

It looks like the cv axles are runined now from attempts to seperate the inner ends from the shafts and Im not buying 2 more cv axles, im throwing the halfshafts back in and chalking it up to a bad week. Thanks for the explanation on where NOT to cut the metal band. So im curuous though, once the band is off how does the inner end shaft seperate from the actual diff stub section? Is it pressed? peened?

Yes exactly. When I get the damn cv's back today im gonna really give a once over and see what the hell is going on. Oh, Eric of Zparts says hi. Ive been talkingwith him as he lives a couple miles from me and was tryingto help me out on this also.

I have shortened driveshafts before on 1000hp race cars but how bout a cv shaft center section? Is it wise to cut and re-weld the center shaft portion of a cv shaft?

Well if I had known before hand what was going to transpire, I would have done a completely different type cv conversion with shafts that were easier to modify. Unfortunatly I bought all the stuff over a year ago before I really knew alot about the different options and hadnt planned to switch away from 3.90 gears to 4.38's. We will get it in and my son will be happy with it!

Awww cmon Tony., you know your my fav guy when it comes to techy Datsun stuff and you always have the right answers! I found a dang Chilton book that showed exactly how to get the shaft inner end/boot (what a fugged up design on that inner boot end) apart and all the detail on rebuilding and how to swap inner ends in my garage. Sometimes ol Chilton comes through.

Yea, I sometimes think out loud like that, but figured what the heck do i care what it looks like under the car as long as it seals the shaft.

Thanks for that writeup. I think I will just buy a boot and pull it over the part that you hammered back carefully in and install a regular cv boot clamp over that whole boot and clamp it, then I dont have to mess with trying to get it back in like the original one.

Well what garbage dump are those modded ones in? LOL Im in the process now of attempting to swap the diff stub sides, but that inner pressed in boot is a real bear and it looks like its all pressed fit without using a small metal band like the other sides and boot uses. So did you end up swapping the diff stubs on the zxt axles then? How is that inner boot secured on the one end without one of the usual metal bands most boots use? is it pressed in there and did it seperate on that edge?

Where can one get the sheet metal grease cover from the 300ZX CV axles? Dealer says no have andcant get, and not too many people will want to remove this plate to sell it if their axles are good.

Im now running a 4.38 R200. In this setup the fat spacer in the carrier itself is moved to the opposite side so the longer cv shaft diff stub now goes on the left side (which also happens to be a longer shaft by .50" extended, but only .25 compressed) as opposed to the usual right side having the "longer" axle. The possible problem is.....the left and right cv shafts have respected short and a long center sections (.50" difference expanded but only .25" compressed) and in most cases cv shafts are to be fit for the long section to be on right side because diff is offset away from that side and left side likes the shorter center section and everything is peachy (did that make sense? LOL) So the shaft that goes on the left now is a nout 1/2" to 3/4" too long.

Ive been looking at 300zx na cv shaft pictures but cant find any that seem to have 6 bolt strut side configurations or there just arent any pitures of any out there. Just went to the dealer and the end plate from a 300zx is not available at all. Made half a dozen phone calls and no one has any axles they are going to pull the end plate off of (why ruin a good set of axles). Ross just contacted me and said the tin end projection should easily crush when I start tightening all the bolts and will be fine. I guess its the same idea as using the BFH. LOL

The nipple sticks out 1.00" from the edge of the end plate and im just too long by about .25 inch. Also do all year 300zx cv end plates have the same end plate 6 hole pattern as the ZXT's?