dr_hunt

I'd throw some money in on that deal. Ought to make it a generall offer to the members, collect some cash via paypal and buy the stuff ASAP. Set a price, whether you pitched in or not and sell the stuff to members only. The people that pitched in get a percentage back based on what they put in. If there ends up being more $$$ than needed then get Corzette to ship goodies over in the same fashion.

I also have a 10 point cage, but I was considering tieing in the front of the frame rails fore of the engine to the cage in an effort to stiffen the entire assembly and avoid any twisting of the frame since both of the front wheels on the z are lifted at launch. The chrome moly is going to be a little lighter although with the excess power you have, I doubt it'll make any difference. I'd like to see some pic's, I couldn't find much when I was building mine and then the NHRA tech inspector here told me what he needed to see and that may not necessarily be what other NHRA tech's need to see.

Personally, I like the oil lines between the turbos, connected to each other and nothing else, makes for great turbo lube. It's going to need two blow through hats for the dual quad intake that's setting on it also. I don't know about this one. Buy only if you can pull the pan and verify what the rotating assembly really is.

Edwards number is 505-247-8821, I'm talking to Scott Edwards right now, I guess he's working late, and the price on the Dart little m with billet caps is $2179 and the price with nodular caps is $1806. If you call during their regular hours, Suzanne will answer the phone, she's very knowledgeable, and be sure to tell them I sent you. Well, I guess it's all about money. You send Jap Tin pleanty, he'll get the parts for you and they'll be waiting for you when you get back. Best deal I think you could ask for and his car flies, both right side up and upside down. Now that is what I call pleanty of HP!!!

The peterbilt is a model 359, it has a 400 big cam 3 cummins turned up to 505HP, 13 speed, air ride, 3.70 rears. It's real clean and real dependable, just needs a new paint job. I can't help it, I hotrod everything I own. Did I mention that my lawnmower runs on race gas?...... Right before I die, I'm going to get some plastic and max them all out. Hope you all are into getting christmas go fast parts! Hanns, what possessed you to build a cage that had less than .135 wall thickness out of mild steel in the first place? Didn't I read that NHRA had changed the spec's for roll cages? If so, then what are the new spec's calling for? How is this new cage going to differ from the old one? Going to add a funnycar style cage? I can't wait to see a video of your car running 9.50's, but seeing it in person would be better. Work it baby!

Ditto, what makes AFR heads work so well, is the port shape, not the port volume. The AFR 220's use a 1205 intake gasket which is still too big for the ports, where the other comparable cheaper heads take a larger intake gasket like a 1206 or 1207 just to match up. It has a small cross section but is larger in and around the valve area where there is more obstruction. The price difference between the AFR 190's and the 220's or 227's is like $200, plus they come with full roller valve train already, which is worth the $200 in my book. I have 2 dart blocks, and I have (4) 4 bolt 400 sbc's. I don't use the 400's cause you end up with 1200 to 1500 by the time it's all said and done and I can buy the dart block for $1780 at Edwards. The dart I can bore to 4.185 safely even if it starts off at 4.000. So if a pennies worth of experience is worth $1000 today, I'd go with dart again or even World block IMHO. So, let's add that up. $1800 for block, $600 for eagle crank, $500 for eagle rods with the ARP2000 bolts, $600 for pistons, $1500 for AFR heads, $700 for roller cam and offset lifters off EBAY, $1000 for roller rockers, rings, bearings, gaskets, wires, manifold, etc. So, if I can add, that's $6700 and you get the pleasure of doing it right yourself. Also there is nothing Chevy in the entire engine, so it's a true Corzette hybrid!, less than half the price of Shafiroff and runs just as good. If it won't turn 8's then throw in a 250 shot!

Personally, I don't use plastic, if I ain't got it, it don't get spent. Besides, I owe enough as it is with the house and vehicles. Keep your fingers crossed a guy from Mexico is coming to look at my business and is interested in buying it all, lock stock and barrel. If that happens, I'll build another z, buy a semi trailer, paint the peterbilt and slowly visit everyone cause I'll have lots of time to spend. Was that cage just too small in diameter then?

Been there, done that, still could be the trans, just cause it's in neutral doesn' mean the internals aren't turning. I had same symptoms, motor balanced and all, ended up the trans. Could be the harmonic, but like I said if you check it like I suggest, you'll know right away and won't be wasting time.

There you go.... I raise the bar to 9's and then you go talking 8's. You let us know when your coming, I'll buy the beer.

Hanns, What are you building to replace it? I want pics please!

The easiest thing to do is to remove the torque converter bolts and push the converter back as far as it will go, then start the engine and see if the vibration is still there. This will isolate the vibration as engine related or trans related. What trans is it? I had a th400 that had the same problem and was disassembled several times before finally yanking the trans in favor of another one, which fixed the issue. I had been through replacement of harmonic balancer, fan, water pump, pulleys, flexplate, converter and the trans apart 3 times for inspection. All the while the trans builder claimed the trans was perfect! It was not and the replacement fixed that. The vibration was so bad that you couldn't see out the rear view mirror at any rpm over 2500 cause it was shaking so much.

Corzette, Just name the day buddy. I don't know about being in front though, we'll see. IMHO the AFR 220's are sized correctly for the 400 inch and larger engines. I have 2 sets, one is on the 350 and it doesn't seem to be lacking in HP in any respect. I have built a 408 inch motor on a 350 block. It uses a 4 inch stroke crank. With Manley 6 inch rods, Manley 14:1 pistons for alky, big .700 + lift roller cam and some ported Brodix alum heads it made 700HP peak HP on the dyno and had wicked torque. Racing it in a Late model heat at Manzanita in Phoenix, driver Jerry Deal went from 5th (last) to first in 2 laps and lapped the field in 8 laps, it was a wicked motor. Several of the other late model drivers came over after the heat and wanted to know what we had for motor since alot of them buy engines and just got dusted bad. It takes some block clearancing, but it's no bid deal, really! Cam to rod clearance and piston to valve clearance are the only real issues to deal with. I think if your going to invest in the crank and rods, go with a 400 block and get some cubes going, get the AFR 227 heads and run the offset roller lifters and rockers, make some insano HP so I won't be alone at the end of the track, you might be instead! I think my 406 is only putting about 450 to 480HP to the ground at this altitude, so that's about 580Hp at the crank. I don't think you'd have too much trouble besting that. Damn, there went the other glove, oh well, I didn't like emulating Wacko Jacko that much anyway. I just got the 4.11's installed and the transbrake PG so I'm hooking that all up and trying to rewire the car and install my dedenbear crossover delay box. I'm tired of running Non Electronic class and racing 15 to 17 second cars. I'm hoping for some 9 second passes on motor at a better altitude. What about a visit back to the states? Mail me the keys and I'll pick you up at the airport in Dallas, he he....

Good idea!

Yeah, that avatar is definately "not" racey! I wasn't trying to start a flame war, just stating the obvious common sense to the situation, sorry if that offended you, sincerely I am. Gee, it just seems to me that there is so much out there that you can't protect everyone from everything and the one voice that complains gets all the grease. If one was so worried, then the picture section covering "chicks" would definately be off limits and it has no warning, but nobody is complaining about that, oops, cat's out of the bag now. I don't think this site should appeal to nuns and the like IMO, but some common sense would be a novel idea. I don't let my boy wander around the internet unsupervised, or anywhere in the wide world unsupervised as well. It's a watchfull eye, cause I care and I don't expect everything that "might" be harmfull come with a warning label cause my kid, however curious, is going to look at it whether or not it has a warning label or not, and probably more so with a label. Dog gone it, more common sense slipping into the picture. Do what you all feel is right, but it isn't going to stop an underage kid from viewing it, label or not, is it?

your barking 500HP at sea level depending on compression. 400 block is the way to go for big HP. I can't wait until you get it back, get it going, so we can race! Damn, now I only have one glove.........

I don't think it is everyone elses responsibility to monitor what your kids are looking at on the internet at your home. I think that's your job. Both posts are a play on words and show nothing that they won't see in the supermarket check out line.

A friend of mine, Detlev Gottschalk, owns a die making business (large) in Detroit and he makes the dies for stamping out FORD parts as well as GM and Chrysler, like the hood, hinges, brackets, etc. He said that he bought a ford because "Ford was so damn picky" about the tolerances on the dies. They take the dies and provide them to their manufacturers of metal hard parts. He got one, it lasted a year, had alot of problems, so he went dodge this year. Ford does outsource it's parts to avoid union labor, almost all of the stampings are non-ford made according to my friend.

Why would you want to do that?

Unless it massages the ol' scrotum, I wouldn't pay that much money for something to get me from point a to point b.

I got a rental car, Ford Contour, hit a pothole, the entire lower control arm broke off and the strut was torn off, causing me to have one hell of a wreck while driving 30mph in town! Biggest POS I've ever seen, cast aluminum lower control arm???? Come on Ford, I really think that part needs to be steel!

I'd go $20 if he delivered it in one piece.

Yup, big blocks and valve train are notorious for having problems. If you have a stock big block that has valve train noise, you'd better investigate the cause before you drop a valve and lunch the whole enchilada. Chances are, IMHO, that all the rockers are worn out and need replacing, the guides and springs are in need of replacement and probably most of the valves as well as the cam and lifters. Since about 90% of engine failures are valvetrain related, it's cheap insurance to replace the valve train in it's entirety. I'm sure grumpy can relate to stock high mileage big blocks picked up as a core. When going back consider a hydraulic roller cam and roller rockers, will save you $$$ in the long run IMO.

Hit the nail on the head. I need workers, I had a guy come look for a job last week. He says how much do you pay, I said, $8/hr to start. He says, do you pay cash?, I say, No, that's illegal and besides, I have workers comp insurance. He says, well, that'd screw up my welfare so unless you pay cash, I'm not interested. I say, OK, then I don't need you.

http://album.hybridz.org/data/500/medium/Copy_of_P9030006.jpg Ok, how's that? The turbo tag says 3aa1bb90b1, ser #0136628, part# 600586-08 Going to fab some spacers to raise the turbo's up to clear the valve covers which will mean having to redo the wastegates into the exhaust. I have to change the cam, and oil pan so I can weld oil drains back to the pan. I have to fab an crankcase evac system into the exhaust, then I have to plumb the whole thing up and see if it in fact works at all.

Well, I'm old and busted, and this new hotness stuff and me don't jive. I don't know how to post a pic in the thread, sorry, but yeah, it's a pet peeve of mine too. Teach me grasshopper!