dr_hunt

The turbo's are really, really tight, turn nice but have no slop or play whatsoever. This guy really, really stands behind his claim of dyno time only and it shows everywhere on the pieces. I'm thinking I'm going to make an exhaust spacer to move the manifold out a bit on the driver side so that it clears the valve cover and use a longer silicone boot. For the z I'm going to have to fab an exhaust that mounts them like turbomeister's are. I guess if I can't beat him I'll just copy him. I don't have time right now, too much work, hopefully, well, yeah, this weekend I'll post pictures and get some feedback and input from you pro's on how to make this all work correctly. I was trying to look up the turbo's last night but I couldn't find much on Rayjay turbos, except that they make aircraft applications mainly.

Tags say Model 3AA1BB90B1, Ser. 0136638 and 9, Part # 600586-08, that's all it says. Been blading roads all day and I'm worn out, so pic's will have to wait until later this week when I get it mocked up with the down pipes and BOV's. It'll look impressive anyway.

Well, when your lifting the front tires then energy that could be moving the car forward is translated into non forward motion, so in essence, your 60 foots are not what they could be if the front end stays on the ground. But it is a rush to not be able to see the track, even if it is only for an instant, not to mention the crowd appeal and the WOW factor! I do think there is a limit though.

auction was for a gale banks blow through twin turbo setup, complete and in as new condition with dyno time only. He claimed 730+HP and 600+TQ on pump gas at 16psi. Pretty lazy compared to what banks claims, but in talking to him it was a stock 80's vette engine. Anyhoo, I thought it was a good deal, I thought I won it in a honorable fashion by bidding once and becoming the high bidder although I only bid once and only bid the last minute, such is life. esnipe or no esnipe, if you don't put in a big enough $$ you ain't gonna win. Just like you all say I did, I appreciate it. Sometimes I just need a reality check or should I say a moron check. Positive feedback is on the way baby!

Damn and I almost went out and bought a titan right quick.

Well, this guy much have more money than 100 of us members combined and that's in his plane alone. Get this, he flew the turbo down here to Socorro, from Colorado, in his personal plane for something to do! Oh, he brought his new girlfriend and she didn't seem nearly as enthused as he was about the trip. Gees, paid him $100 for shipping and insurance UPS, I wonder if that paid for 1/10th the avgas that it took to fly down here. And on a Sunday to boot! Anyway, started mocking this thing up and it definately won't fit in the z with the manifolds supplied. Going to take major rework for that. It is obviously designed for a GM car/truck. The manifolds are stainless and have 1/2" flanges, superduty pieces tig welded to perfection, really nice. The turbo's are rayjay's, don't know what size, but looks comparable to a garret gt25 in size. Came with blow through gas carb and everything to make it work. The book says it's a custom upgrade kit at 16psi boost and will deliver 1100HP and 900TQ with 100 octane gas on a 5.7 liter sbc. This is the same kit that was profiled in hotrod some years back in an F body firebird that banks did for some guy in South Africa. The carb hat is a nice piece, custom drop with a flame arrestor and some kind of a backfire valve in the back by the dizzy. Will definately fit under a stock z hood, no problem! Not sure what all is what at this point. Oh, it won't work with tall valve covers, so going to have to go to the aluminum fab shop and have him modify the valve covers I have to work cause I have to run my stud girdles. I know, what a whiner. The manual also says that the Carb is specially calibrated for this application and that they don't make them anymore. I guess the guy who figured out how to make it work died and took all the secrets with him. The statement is so lame it isn't even funny. BG and C&S as well as others all make blow through carbs these days. I guess nobody informed Banks that the secrets were out. Anyway, I'll take pics and see if I can get them to download onto my computer.

I'm sure they may hold up, but holding up to the extreme power for how long and at what cost? I'd venture to say that they've been through more $$$ in R200's, drivelines, Stub's, half shafts, CV's and the like than they could have spent on a solid axle conversion done right the first time. Don't want to sound off kelter here but I think it's a safety issue for yourself and those who are racing with you as much as anything else. Heaven forbid if one were to let go while you were playing on the street, leaving "junk" on the road for someone else to "find" that was coming behind you. I left a drive shaft spinning on the road before, lost it at over 100mph while "playing", only to have a buddy in his car that I just smoked come along and hit it, blowing out 2 tires and puncturing the gas tank on his '77 TA. Wonder he didn't wreck, instead it was costly.

I calculated it exactly and it has 12.68 compression now and the limit for alcohol is theoretically 12.5, so that's close enough, gives me a boost limit of 19 psi. The latent heat of vaporization for alcohol is alot greater than gas and the air intake temp is drastically lower for alcohol than for gas in a blow through environment and the octane equivalent of alcohol in relation to gas is 150. This allows for alot more static compression to be run under boost. Couple that with the overall increase in BTU's at correct AFR then you end up with about 200 more HP under identical boost conditions than you do with gas. So, in a nutshell if you can make 600HP forced induction with gas, alcohol will net about 800HP all things (hard parts) being equal. This system is set up for 16psi boost. On a 350 chevrolet with 100 octane gas, non intercooled, produces about 800 HP, so on alcohol with excellent AFR heads, roller cam, should make in excess of 1000HP at the flywheel and should net over 800 at the wheels. Pretty incredible considering it's only 16psi boost. I'd really like to order another set of AFR heads and leave the combustion chamber at 76cc which would drop the compression down to 9.5 and turn the boost up to 22 psi which should net around 1300HP and over 1000TQ, now that'd be a ride that would put a smile on ol' grandma.

Ok, looks like I'm treading into new waters here. Searched and didn't find what I was looking for. Suggestions on boost referenced fuel pressure regulator for the banks TT system, only difference is that I'll be running alky. Suggestions on Brand would be helpfull. I'm running -10 braided lines and the A2000 pump for now. Thanks

I take it you have no faith in my ability to run as slow as a ricer with dual fart cans? Your probably right, it's inevitable!

Yeah, I had that same problem once, it turned out to be a loose wire that was causing mine. I have two MSD 7 series and I love em. I'd check the easy stuff first, like connections. Could be distributor gear if it's bronze, could be the pickup is going out. Need more info.

Dex 2 If you ever rebuild a trans, you'll note that the kit says to use Type F. I use Type F in my powerglide and TH400.

Two words; Solid axle Well maybe more than two words. Mine lifts both front wheels, but it's a 9 inch Ford rear.

Non computer controlled HEI, look for one that has a +, _ (tach) terminal connections only on the cap. Install the black module and make sure you put dielectric grease on the mating surface. I'd install a HP coil in the cap or an external coil to get more spark, but the stock one will work for what he's got.

Oh, make no mistake about it, I sniped it, been watching it for a week. Knew what I wanted to pay, bid accordingly at a time that I felt was appropriate, not really caring if I was listed as high bidder for a week to drive the price up to possibly more than I wanted to pay. I'm an outlaw, what can I say!

Yeah, I mean that if an auction ends at a certain time, just because you want it doesn't mean it'll end early just for you. If someone outbids you then that is what the auction is about and it ain't over until it's over, 45 seconds or 5 seconds, that's just how it is. What really gets me is that 4 or 5 guys send emails to the seller saying that I sniped the auction and that's illegal. Really, what if I just happened to log on to EBAY, find this item with 1 minute left, decide hey I want that, bid and whammo, I get it. Is that sniping? Then the same 4 or 5 guys send me emails to see if I intend on completing the transaction or if I'd sell it to them for what I paid for it. I think not, it wasn't an accident! Just so happens, I was going to buy one anyway direct from Banks, they are $3800 without upgrades like this one has. With the upgrades, it's like $4800 so it is still a smokin deal at $3500. All I can say is that they are loosers.

Does vaseline come to mind? I think a good insurance agent is supposed to tell you what coverage you need and don't need. Might ought to have a check up on that. Or move to NM, we don't have insurance, don't need it, can't afford it cause nobody else here has it. MY workers comp insurance for 2005 was $37K, and I've never had a claim, go figure?

I saw an electronic device once, that was handlheld and it had a microphone that was attached to a switch and timer and after you'd speak into it, some lights would start flashing in sequence and then all kinds of lights and a buzzer would go off and it would say "Bullshit detected". I wish I had one for how many times I've heard exactly what it describes.

The only real good way to do cast is tig and even that isn't real good. I'd steer clear, if they were hot enought to crack, then they are undoubtedly warped and some core shift could have occurred. Best to start with good used parts rather than not so good used parts IMHO.

I bought the Gale banks setup on ebay, bid the last minute for $3690 cause I was at a party and all they had was dial up 26K and got it for $3490 or so. When I bid, the highest bid at the time was $2500, and alot of other people who had faster computer connection lines bid it up in the last seconds to try to get it. Since then, both the seller and I have been bombarded by emails from unsuccessfull bidders asking him to quash the deal or for me to sell it to them cause I bid at the last second (ala sniping). I say, bid to win or don't bid at all. If they were willing to pay $3600 or more then they should have bid $3600 or more when they had the chance, which was some 45 seconds to spare in the auction. They bid, they just didn't bid enough, stinking whiners, what is this world coming to?

Yup, you ought to buy that for that cheap.

Now this I have to see! Pics???? Performance?????

jbk240z, no, my boy and I drove it 6 miles one way to a buddies house and back on the back roads so probably 15 miles total, just cruising and it used 10 gallons of alcohol, so it's definately not a long hauler. I cruise town with my boy on weekends, make a couple of drags down main and head home just so he can enjoy the car, he drives on the back roads too. That may change though, I can switch from gas to alcohol and will be able to do so with the right compression also with the turbo, Muhahahaha!

We'll try it and see, what happens on 12psi, might even order some lower pressure springs to start with and see how the chassis reacts and what kind of speed on the top end develops. Baby steps first. I got 28psi closed out of my A2000 and can't get it below 22psi, so we'll see how it works.