A. G. Olphart

Starter number 3 looked to me to be the optimal choice for a SBC Z, so I hunted one down at my local junk yard. The only one they had was really cruddy, but I bought it figuring that I would rebuild it. WRONG! The starter is small because it uses permanent magnets rather than field coils, and Mitchell's manual states that it must be replaced, not repaired. That's the bad news. The good news is that since they've now been in production for a while and are used in several applications, the price has come down. By Googling with the part number for the 95 pickup starter (part #9000786, series PG-260), I found replacement starters for the application for as low as $59.95. Here's a link for the low ball outfit; I've never dealt with them and don't know about shipping, but the price is right: http://www.autoelectricpart.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=SAEE&Product_Code=S6449N

I agree with zfan. Try option 2 and let us know how it works out-- What changes as far as mileage, driveability, power. I face the same dilemma here with a similar engine but for my Z (which causes me to rule out option 3). As I recall, the old Carters didn't like corners very well due to float/ float chamber design. Since this is pretty basic to the carb, I doubt if the Edelbrocks are any better. Option 1??. Double pumpers are jetted for max power (richer) so logically the mileage would still suffer, even with a 600.

Well, I borrowed a scale, and my coil over 240Z strut with Terry's brake upgrade is 50 pounds. A complete stock 280Z strut and brakes is 52 pounds. Exact numbers not guaranteed (it was just a bathroom scale), but it doesn't seem that the brake upgrade hurts unsprung weight at all. .

Has anyone run these (or seen test results), and if so, what do you think of them? Looks like they should fit if I narrow the spare tire well.

Sorry Dan, your intuition played you false this time... Tapered Roller bearings have a considerably greater load carrying capacity for a given/similar sized bearing. Rollers have a line of contact along each roller (and generally a bit of preload, so that all really are in contact). Balls have only a point contact on each ball, so the load is concentrated at/on that point; I don't know if the factories can preload them or not... I'd guess not. It was SOP to replace the early Spridget ball front wheel bearings with the later rollers as they gave less trouble.

Quote: MIG is typically easier for the novice welder. It also does a much better job controling heat warpage. With clean metal I find it a quicker way to lay down a decent weld. Unquote (Sorry, I don't see how to do quotes for real). Those are all key factors. I used a torch and heat dam material to weld up the holes left when pulling "Datsun" from the nose of our roadster, and it worked nicely. It is, however, a real bear to do a long seam. Many tiny tacks to hold things in place, then very short beads when the real welding is done or even curved pieces want to wander around. Flat areas-- Good Luck.

Steve, does the setup you mention require the disc center hole to be carved out? I seem to recall a Maxima swap that did... personally, I'd rather work on the OD if that is the case. Also, are there any spacers involved? (Could be the swap I didn't find, but I'm committed now. The number of discrete variations of the Toyota 4 pot calipers also tended to frighten me while I was in the decision making phase). I did check on sizes today... My cut down 300Z discs are only about a tenth of an inch smaller than stock Z's, which I see as insignificant. Z pads are basically 2"x 2.9". ZX pads are about 4 1/2" long and 2" wide at their widest, but it (like the Z) is missing some corners, and the outer -long- side is an arc. Someone who retained more of their math skills than I, please feel free to compute the areas of both pad types. (By eye, the ZX pads are significantly larger). Bigger pads, better cooling- works for me. I don't have a bathroom scale at my shop, so guess I'll never know what the overall weight penalty is for my coil over/brake mods. Some things a guy just doesn't Want to know.

I guess the meaning of "upgrade" must vary from person to person... I see a vented disc (only about 0.15" in diameter smaller per Terry's write up) as a huge improvement over a thin (much more easily overheated) solid disc. Speaking as a wallet size limited individual, an effective junk yard solution can happen where new aftermarket parts will not. I think my discs came from an 85 (don't recall what other years are the same) non turbo 300ZX (Z31 model, 4 lug) A cautionary note: When sourcing used discs a person needs to watch the thickness; they can be at minimum or below and still look pretty beefy. Specs- Front vented 274 mm (10 3/4") .866 thick (.787 minimum). With luck in the memory department I'll post some other measurements tonight.

Scottie, funny you should mention pumps... the hardened pump rings had slipped my mind. For those of you who want to build your own, here is a link to a thread with a parts list and source; it helped me a bunch: http://turbobuick.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=139593

If a person plans on running Big Horsepower and slicks he will need those trick parts, and they are not inexpensive. These trannys do break when abused or old... check this out: http://turbobuick.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=144935 The wide alto red band, a GN or larger servo and a shift kit are pretty basic to any decent rebuild... very few of these trannys had performance calibration from the factory. The later versions (about 87 on?) had some better parts as GM learned the weaknesses. There are other things, but I can't recall them off the top of my head. (There was a post on Turbobuick on what was needed to run 12's, which sounds more like what you are interested in-- happy searching). For big power/racing, see the sticky on strengthening at turbobuick. For expert rebuilders see the sticky on who's who on the same board. The 200R4 did fairly well behind mild 305s and the like, but even then they broke. My father in law's mid sized Chevy wagon made it about 200K, another relatives Caddy died as in the above referenced post, but I don't know what the mileage was. Do I like them? My restalled D5 converter is on order. The car will run someday. (This really should have been in the drivetrain forum)

Strange how a religious conversion can cause a person to devalue all the things he once held dear.

Sierra Nevada Harvest Ale. Only available part of the year at the brew pub. Made with fresh hops. (They also make a pretty good IPA if a person likes Strong hops flavor).

http://www.micom.net/oops/SpeedEnforcement1.jpg

If you fabricate the Ron Tyler mount shown on Pete's page (referenced by Datsun660z), shimming lowers the nose as it is hung from above. As I recall, Pete also discusses how to raise the rear of the diff.

You are fortunate to have a running Z; I bought a dead one from a barn, and have yet to drive it. I should have joined HybridZ as soon as I got the car, but instead lurked for a while as I've really no outstanding expertise to share; finally the nature of HybridZ's members convinced me to join and post, at least irregularly. Coming here has helped keep the dream alive... Once in a while it fades to where I'd rather just sit and read a book, but it doesn't die. Now that the bits are finally beginning to go back on the car (rather than all coming off), I hope to have a ratty looking slightly rusted 240 hybrid on the road sometime this year. If it is as much fun as expected, I'll begin to dream about paint and interior. Dreams are good.

A stock 200R4 will not like 400 ft-lb of torque. They get expensive when built to take big power. That said, I will be runnning one in my 240. I've spent about $1000 in parts already, still looking at $600 or better (not including a converter). Here is a write up on some of the problems and solutions: http://turbobuick.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=31365 Here is a list of shops known to do 200R4s: http://turbobuick.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=84598

I found a net site which hosts this article, but they want money. Have you tried to lessen the twin vortex problem with small vertical fins, or maybe cute curved things like on airplane wing tips? Any idea how far off the tail end of a Z with a BRE spoiler is from acting like a Kamm (SP?) back?

It is my understanding that the 260's were a work in progress... displacement not considered, the early ones were 240s with a new badge, the later ones had 280 configuration.

Two years isn't bad... Someday, even I may have a driveable Z. Unless I just go for Pete's record (without the perfect results).

Top of the page, first blue line: album. Then to member galleries. (Mine is indexed under A. G. Olphart, 1st page of the index). I don't know if you need to be logged in to view them or not; not really familiar with that part of the board yet.

OK, fabrication pictures are in my gallery. They were entered in order, so naturally they display backwards. Someone had mentioned using similar slots and the stock Z bolts without trouble; I was a little leery & came up with this. HTH

My car was wrecked at one time or another, so camber adjustment capability was pretty much mandatory. I found a 1975? Mercedes sedan using adjusting cams on the same sized pivot bolt as the Z. The cam bolts are longer, so I put 1/4" plates on each side of the front cross member; a person could also buy a die and lengthen the thread (and the indexing groove) on the Mercedes bolts to avoid the added weight and hassle. Please make sure that the bolt would retain sufficient strength after threading; I believe cut threads are weaker than rolled threads. If anyone is interested in trying the cam & plates, I can post pictures.

Maybe this will help... http://hostingprod.com/@aa1car.com/library.htm

Had to make a grocery run. so I dropped by the local John Deere dealer. Blitz black is no longer shown in their books... he surmised that it may have been pulled in CA. Possibly still available elsewhere? A person might use the dealer locating screen and call ahead if an out of state trip were planned.

Assuming that 'it' is JD Blitz black, these folk may be able to help... http://dealerlocator.deere.com/servlet/DealerLocator?command=locate&locator=3&selectLocale=en_US&selectCountry=USA&selectProduct=10&locale=en_US&countryCode=USA&option=L&street=&city=Campbell&state=CA&postalCode=&radius=&uom=mi&limit=5&groupType=3&groupCode=10&valid=1&showLocales=en_US%3Aen_CA%3Afr_CA%3Aes_MX&showCountries=USA%3ACAN