A. G. Olphart

My 72 240 came with a manual transmission (all the 240's I've run across had manuals), but my car will run an automatic. A junk yard 280Z (sorry, didn't get the year) automatic style pedal fit without any modifications. It doesn't have the adjustable brake light switch stop that comes on the manual tranny 240 pedal, but the switch itself had enough adjustment to work. Just a note for anyone considering a similar swap.

Evidently no one remembered, So I visited the local yard... the cars there had the steel pin on top, so normal rotation would come to the plastic/rubber sleeved pin first, then to the steel pin. I don't know what difference it might make, but will follow that pattern.

I've looked & don't find, so here's the Question: There are two different guide pins for the ZX front calipers, one solid steel, and the other with a plastic or rubber sleeve. As the wheel rotates in the forward direction, which pin should be encountered first? The Steel or the sleeved one? (Front calipers are the only ZX parts going on my car, and I don't have a ZX manual). If someone knows the purpose of the different materials, would there be an advantage to running two pins of the same type? I'd guess the sleeved pin allows for some misalignment... but that is just whistling in the wind.

Thanks Mike... When my aluminum racing radiator breaks I'll give you a call.

Aaron, it would be a bit of a drive for your steak dinner: Saskatoon is in West central Saskatchewan (Canada). And a quick note to Aux.: Don't worry, it isn't your PETA affiliation...

Chris Kokkonis (one of the transmission experts over on the turbobuick.com transmission forum) has written a 200 page book on how to rebuild and modify GM's 200-4R transmission. Much more to the point for high performance people than a Haynes or ATSG manual. The book is available through his transmission business-- http://www.ckperformance.com Thought those of you running or considering a 4 speed automatic would like know about the book; it isn't the sort of knowledge a person can easily find.

I still dream of having a Z that moves under its' own power. Enjoy.

Check me on this, but I think your tall single plane manifold (besides generally falling behind a good dual plane until high RPM), may also require that a hole be cut in the hood for clearance. If 16 year olds think that's cool, cool. Us Olpharts see stuff sticking out of the hood as tacky (and cop bait).

Sean- The guys are right about buying the JTR manual... you can get it here: http://www.jagsthatrun.com/ Frankly, I don't know the difference between an engine swap and a conversion. If you have done or been involved in a swap, you know the score: Motor/transmission mounts, cooling system, drive shaft and exhaust. Big hammer where required. (Little things like building mounts to retain proper driveshaft alignment are where it gets interesting). A few wires here and there. If I remember correctly, the LT1 is a 350 with reverse flow cooling, and there is also a later aluminum LS1 350. All will work, but the JTR book is/was based on the old cast iron 350. buy the book, and see. The JTR book suggests buying a running donor car, so you can grab whatever you need (and you will know for sure your new V8 Z will run, as you drove the donor long enough to feel comfortable with the drivetrain). The later fuel injected engines are nice, but if a person doesn't buy a running donor car, it would be easy to miss some of the bits needed to make the engine run. The 240 is a neat car. If your dad is willing to give you his (WOW!) you will have a fun ride while you find the right donor car. If you have tools and a place to work, it will take time and a firm commitment. If you don't have long term shop space, I'd suggest putting it off a while. (I wouldn't hire a conversion by a shop on an open ended deal... that sort of thing could put a strain on the shop owner's honesty). Hope this is kind of what you were looking for.

I have a 72 240 that I'm giving a 15/16 master; both the 72 and the later master have "F" and "R" markings, and they are in the same relative positions. Pulling hard to the right indicates two things to me- a) The master cylinder is moving at least some fluid, and You have a problem with the left front caliper/brake, as it is not applying (or at least not nearly as hard). Did you change the rubber flex lines? I've heard of a flex line failing in such a manner that the inner lining acts like a flapper valve, and blocks flow in one direction. (Not something I've personally experienced). Assuming that the bleeder is on the top of the caliper where it belongs, you may be able to get more air out of the left side... odd that the pressure doesn't equalize. Piston(s) stuck??

Europas are cute little cars (He says, totally stealing a dying thread). Your picture prompts a couple questions... How is it on longish trips; (Z-like, more/less comfortable)? Have you any driving or autocrossing tales to tell? And to stay on topic, what color is it?

I believe that Mike KZ nailed it: bad ignition switch. I see your radio as a test light, telling you when the ignition is hot. Just because the start contact connects doesn't establish that the IGN contact is as connecting as well. If IGN is worn (below the level of the 'start' contact?) turning to 'start' could tend to break the ignition circuit.

Careful ZHeadV8, you have injected a bit of constructive thought into this culture twigging thread. That said, I agree with you. I seem to recall riding in some sort of mid engined Ford product with a similarly configured deck/rear window. Iirc, the biggest complaint was lack of rear visibility. One doesn't just have blind spots, it is more like blind quarters. (I'd make that window as large as feasible, and use good side mirrors... I like the flying buttress look, just not the large motor cop hidey holes). It just came back- Mercury's car was the DeTomaso Pantera... Take a look: http://www.panteraplace.com/Pantera%20Pics/bad%20back.jpg Oops, Two40MuscleZ, your post wasn't up when I began looking for that old memory. Valid point to you.

Info appreciated, Thanks again.

Bump... I,too, would like to hear how well it works on headers. Thanks-

If they do fit, how much (if any) better will they work than block huggers? It appears to me that they are made primarily to look nice... very symetrical, with no evident effort made to match lengths. I, too, would like a set of long tube headers that fit: truly long tubes (for 4500-6000). My Z will be strictly street, but scavenging headers would still be nice.

For a 200R4 the location would be suspicious... if the TV cable on the 700 also enters on the front (passenger side) above the pan gasket, I'd suggest taking a close look. Could working with the the VB have damaged an old seal?

The project is still in the planning/ parts acquisition stage, and already "while I'm at it" has appeared. Must be a pretty severe case to start that early; two weeks could easily become two months, or, in a Pete's case scenario, two years..

Looking at the twists in that stator support and input shaft, it'll take more than a case. The torque converter may have successfully isolated the engine from the damage, but on the other hand, its' failure may have caused the problem... Is the metal at the case fracture all shiny and new, or is it greasy part of the way around form having been cracked for a while?

Mr. Scowcroft's quoted inference that President Bush (like the Blues Brothers) may feel that he has a mission from God... is truly frightening. It would, however, explain why he has been so willing to ignore world opinion as well as allies : "Gott mit uns". Can't go wrong with God on the team.

I've bought a few things from Rock Auto (on the net at http://rockauto.com); the prices seem good and delivery has been fast. They recently sent me an email for a 5% discount (good until April 5th) and said that I could share it with friends. Here you go, friends. "Here's how it works: - You give this discount code: 183518183228 to friends, neighbors, relatives, the guy at the corner garage--anyone you know who works on cars or trucks. - When someone (including yourself) places an order at http://www.rockauto.com and enters your discount code in the "How did you hear about us" line of the shopping cart, he or she will receive an immediate 5% discount on that order. - The discount code expires on April 5, 2005; so don't wait! You may use this discount code as often as you wish until it expires, but only one discount code can be used per order. **Each month we see people who put the word "discount" in front of their code and do not get the discount. Please enter ONLY the discount code.** " They sell replacement parts by application; so far all my purchases have been brand name parts.

A line drawn through the center of the output shaft should be parallel (both in the vertical and horizontal planes) with a line drawn through the center of the differential pinion shaft. In my car, I could get a fair idea of the sideways direction by putting a short (about 2 foot) aluminum carpenter's level against the tail shaft (as a long skinny square) and noting the direction it went; then I put it against the differential flange for a check. Just by eye, it looks like your tail shaft could be too far towards the driver's side. (You might have to slot your engine mounts a bit more to move it sideways).

I need a firm answer on this too. After noticing that Modern Motorsports lists different pads for early and late ZX's, I asked about caliper differences but didn't get a reply (so can't buy pads). Looking at the outline drawings of pads in at a local Kragen's, it appears that their late pads have wear indicators/screetch springs, but the early ones don't. A local independent parts house tells me that they have separate early and late caliper listings, but have no idea what the differences might be. (It might be only the type pads loaded)? I don't know what year ZXs my calipers came from; could be anything (even one early/one late) since they came off two different cars. Hey, they looked the same...

Ordinarily a softer ride and lowering the car are mutually exclusive goals; the car will run out of spring travel and bottom out a lot. Progressives sound good... best of both worlds sort of thing.

Looks like he was welding at cast iron, maybe with nickel rod. Haven't tried it in years, but remember that it was a pain. So much so that the last casting I had to stick together I preheated almost forever and brazed. (a diesel tractor's starter snout... it held). Old exhaust manifolds are especially nasty because they tend to burn/oxidize from both sides, so any actual metal gets harder and harder to find.