A. G. Olphart

"This car seems to run better before it reaches peak temperature... at about 160-170 degrees. " Mike, you don't have the worst/solid symptoms of a blown gasket; the rougher running when hot might just be too much advance for the extra temperature (any sound of preignitioon/detonation?). Do you think that you might have trapped an air bubble in the cooling system when it had the original problem? That can cause overheating too. .

If you have no mixing of fluids, you can drive the car. Perhaps not a great idea, but which is more important, that engine, or your job? If you pull all the plugs and they all look to be about the same color, you should be good to go. If two adjacent plugs are fouled/ quite a bit darker than the others, odds are good the gasket is gone between those cylinders. You may be able to baby it along for quite a while (remember the Maverick?); No long hills, no high speeds, no quick starts. With minimal throttle, you will get minimal cylinder pressures and drag it along as long as possible, hopefully untill you can afford repairs/new engine. Car pool? Overheating is one of the primary symptoms of a blown head gasket; with luck, you may just have ignition troubles. .

A carbide quite a bit smaller should work; otherwise they have a tendency to grab, then chatter back and forth all around the hole. I've a nice assortment of chainsaw chain sharpening files (various diameters). They work well, and seem to last longer than some files. .

Later Sprites were basically the same as the MG Midget. I think they came from different doors of the same factory. Anybody interested in one with a dead 13B rotary? .

Mike-- Not knowing where in Taxas you are, I'll hope that you are local to this guy since regular transmission shops are not a great idea for performance 200R-4s: Century Transmissions and Automotive Mike Kurtz 811 PLANTATON DR Richmond, Texas 77469 (281) 633-8155 MAKURTZ@SBCGLOBAL.NET As he's in Texas also, it can't be too far. A little farther away is a fellow who has written a book on doing it right: CK Performance (Christoforos Kokkinos) http://ckperformance.com/ CK PERFORMANCE RACING AUTOMATICS USA 9-16 37TH AVENUE L.I.C. NY 11101 718-784-4256-PHONE/718-784-4252-FAX TRANNYMAN0101@AOL.COM A good 200R-4 forum: http://turbobuick.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=12 .

Damn, I have to disagree with a moderator. Sorry, Davy. While I like red as well as the next guy, I wouldn't do my wiring in all red. I have seem this done, and when problems developed down the road, which of those red wires ran to the fuel pump?? Red wire looms or tape, cool, but color coding the circuits with different colored wires makes things so much simpler to follow/ trouble shoot. .

Laying out a mechanical linkage to get the right travel and mechanical advantage, getting everything to clear, and finding suitable places to mount the pivots is a lot harder than just running some line between master and slave of the proper sizes and throws. Still, I'd go with mechanical if it is feasible, as they are close to bullet proof. (Pivot bushings do wear out eventually, but in my experience, not nearly as often as hydraulics go leaky). Most clutches that I've seen have some sort of threaded adjustments, but I think the more recent hydraulic systems have a slave with enough travel to work with a clutch disc from new to worn out. The slaves entirely within the bellhousing (mounted around the trans input shaft) would have to be that way. (I seem to recall seeing quite a few posts relating troubles with these setups. No, I can't quote one). .

It is a simple concept, Davy: If a person can rig a nice stout mechanical linkage, who needs an extra hydraulic system to cause trouble? The difficulty (as with most things) is in the execution: Hydraulics are a lot easier to put together. .

OK, will do. Here's a link to another set- http://www.compcams.com/Technical/Instructions/Files/117.pdf .

failure notice Hi. This is the qmail-send program. I'm afraid I wasn't able to deliver your message to the following addresses. This is a permanent error; I've given up. Sorry it didn't work out. : 68.224.171.74 does not like recipient. Remote host said: 550 unknown user Giving up on 68.224.171.74. .

I wanna go play:cry:... .

Davy: I logged on and tried to email you through your screen name, but the board says I don't have permission. I then tried a PM, but don't see a way to attach a file. Damned computers:icon45:. .

Davy, here's a kit (from Jegs site) that might be useful if you picked up a used 'Pete Jackson'... _________________________________________________________________ Chevy Installation Kit 782-327-21 Gear Drive Installation Kit # IncludesThrust Button Assembly # Offset Bushings(set of 5) # Lock Plate # 3 Bolts & Washers $31.99 _________________________________________________________________ I think I have a .pdf file of the instructions for a Jegs dogbone style drive somewhere if you'd like a copy... (most everything should be in my post above, but one never knows). .

I bought a Dynadrive (dog bone style like Pete Jackson's) gear drive, and it came with a cam button and a lock plate as well as the brass cam to block thrust washer dr_hunt mentioned. The instructions state that the dog bone must be positioned with the larger idler gear on the left (viewed facing the engine, so this would be on the passenger side of the car). They call that the 'power idler', and the little one is called the 'reverse idler'... it only comes into play under deceleration; it keeps the engine from spitting out the power transferring idler. "Reverse idler (small gear) should have free vertical movement of .005" to .075" when drive idler gear is in solid mesh with cam and crank gears". "Put idler gears about half way in, then install cover (with gasket) and push into place. Remove cover and that is where the idler assembly will run. The chamfered end of the power idler must not touch block. Grind off if necessary for at least .005" end clearance." Their illustration shows a range of .005 to .075" and notes the clearance may be checked with putty. It would be good to always use the same thickness cover gasket & be sure that compressing it still leaves the minimum .005". "DO NOT TRAP AXLES between the block and front cover." There are two different length Chevy torrington bearing cam buttons on the market that I know of. I think the longer one fits the timing chain covers with a raised circle in the center with 3 spokes off it, and the other fits... the other style Chev timing cover. My instructions suggest .005 to .010 end thrust on the camshaft, grind the face end of the cam button to get it. I bought an aluminum Edelbrock water pump that has incorporated an adjustable thrust stop into the design. Busy finishing off a house, so I can't say how well it works, but seems like a good idea. If you want to install your cam with some additional advance, the thicker part of the chosen offset bushing goes to the left; to retard a cam, turn bushing 180 degrees... face the thick part to the right. I know that flat tappet cams have a taper that is supposed to keep the cam from walking, but I plan to run a button, and have drilled a valley plug for oiling. I'm not running a computer (gear noise has been known to screw up knock sensors) and like the longevity of gears. Good luck, hope you like your drive. .

I'd pass in your situation. There is a short list of 200R4s with performance valve bodies, and one from the Caprice isn't on it; for a performance oriented person, what you have is a core in search of a valve body. Stock, they have a reputation for breaking. Not a bad price for a good core, if you planned on building it. .

Yup, I googled and found I'd been given some bad info. Here's the word- http://www.dmv.ca.gov/vr/smogfaq.htm .

Yes... Less unsprung weight, but the half shafts have to carry the braking load. .

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=108624&highlight=ebay+headers .

Pete, I'd suggest listening to John and hiring that gardener. Every time my riding mower hits a rough spot, it makes me wish that I had a goat... (I've not yet snapped my spine, but it is only a matter of time). Good luck with your recovery. .

Davy, don't you mean softer front shocks... At least a soft rebound? .

Thanks for chiming in, Larry. I was beginning to think 'troll', but it looks like we do need someone in the area to give a hand. I'm a ways away, and my current transportation is none too reliable. Any thoughts? My apologies, HowzDat. .

HowzDat, you are welcome for the above advice. That said, I really hope that you are yanking our chains (as your screen name could imply)... $2500 will buy a fine complete engine. If you really got that estimate, please read through the recommendations here (especially about written estimates and a second opinion): http://www.smogcheck.ca.gov/StdPage.asp?Body=/GenInfo/Publications/Auto_Repair_Guide-Jan_2004.htm If I were in the situation you describe, I'd be seeking out knowledgeable friends and relatives, doing a lot of reading, and looking to join a local car club. Good luck. .

If you have two adjacent cylinders with wet looking spark plugs, you may have a blown head gasket... Exhaust gasses being forced into the water jacket then cause the engine to run hot. Grumpyvette gave you good advice; if a leakdown tester is out of the question at the moment, at least run a compression check. Losing the nylon teeth off a stock timing chain sprocket can also cause an engine to run like crap. .

It has turned out really nice Grumpy. I wish I'd been able to put a full bath in mine (not just a sink), but I do have that fridge full of beer. .

The rears have a tube on the bottom (wow, like you hadn't noticed) that might account for the different part number. Tokico may tell you if the valving and shocks themselves are identical... from Google- http://www.tokicousa.com/ Oops. Jon beat me to the keyboard, and with more complete info.. .