A. G. Olphart

Evidently your application isn't quite as critical as the 200R-4; the guys on http://www.turbobuick.com report that one good run with the tv cable maladjusted can kill a trans. However, those are approx. 3800 pound cars running 10-11 second quarters. Some even break into the 9's-- Here's a quote from one fellows sig: "Stage 1 3.8 engine w/GT76Q 9.98 at 140.18 With a 1.60 60 FT 10.80 at 131 on street tune" Good luck in your quest.

Have you jiggled the ignition key/switch? My Toyota pickup had a similar problem, and it was the switch itself.

The flare with added boost (added power) is due to clutch or band slippage. This slipping creates gobs of heat, which burns said clutches/band and a rebuild is soon needed. A shift kit may help by engaging the clutches more rapidly, thus not letting things slip as long, but if you are on the edge of not having enough clamping force to contain the power that your engine is developing, it is only a band-aid. Raising the line pressure can help alleviate the problem (some shift kits include mods to do this), as can physical modification of the transmission to include more clutches, bigger servos etc. for greater holding power. I'd seriously suggest finding a solution immediately--- slippage kills trannys .... Chances are that you already knew this stuff, but just in case... and sorry, I don't know the specific mods that your Jatco needs. I've been researching 200R-4's.

I have used epoxy to repair both the doors on a full sized Healey (rusted from the inside at the level of the bottom structural member) and some AH Sprite fenders (also rusted from the inside). I started by by sand blasting the rusted area on the inside with a home style blaster (it didn't deform things like the big boys do) and then laying up epoxy fiber glass matting on the inside. I kept it from running through the rust holes by taping the outside after sandblasting, but before layup. This worked pretty good for me, but I don't know what RacerX would say about it.

I agree with both zrossa and dladlow... Clean up the combustion chambers per David Vizard's book (there is also a Car Craft article. I believe), measure the volume, and see if it is close enough to vary the DCR with a cam. If it still won't work, I'd consider some good aftermarket aluminum heads and garden variety pistons. True custom pistons get pretty pricey from what I've seen. This alternative makes even more sense if you have not yet had the Vortecs modified for lift... and even if you have, what would the price differential be if you sold the Vortecs?

38-23-35 8)

Certainly metallurgy is far from the only factor in wear, but it is a very significant one. Smokey used to like evenly cooled warm/hot running engines, and it makes a twisted sort of sense anything he liked would wear less too.

Yup, the aftermarket stuff is several multiples of a used stock block plus local machining... I'm not a bucks up kind of guy. (If anyone wants volunteer the resources, I wouldn't mind experimenting with the lifestyle). I did visit a bit with a local machinist last night; he works days at a Japanese engine emporium, so he's familiar with engines from both sides of the pond. In his opinion GM castings are still not up to Nissan/Toyota's level.

I like Tim's idea (damn, I can't believe I really said that). It will work if you are able to tell when you are through the top layer..

Hey guys, are there no automotive machinists or GM mechanics among you who can satisfy my/(our?) curiosity about the one piece seal blocks? How do they seem to hold up after 200,000 miles - like Toyota/Nissan, or still the same old GM block in need of a bore job? Any and all info appreciated. TIA. And here's a thread on the early blocks... http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=3150&highlight=010+020 Hope it works.

Kinda cute. http://wearabledissent.com/101/floridavote.html Might this be called a well designed political machine?

"Let George do it"... That's the busines/motto of George Frechette, who has specialized in sleeves in stainless steel. The work he did for me a few years back looked good. His number at the time was (413) 467-9218 or (800) 528-5235, address was 14 Cedar Drive, Granby MA 01033. Would be interesting to know if he's still in the business.

GM obviously knows how to cast a decent block (the old 010/020 marked blocks) but the run of the mill castings seem to wear like crazy. So far I've not found a good old style block, so now I'm considering using a newer one. How do the one piece seal blocks hold up for ring wear? Is there a marking system for the new blocks to show when better/2% nickel iron is used? Sure wish Grumpyvette was still around... not that I don't like the rest of you I wonder if all the hurricanes washed him away? Has anyone heard?

DCR is generally looked at in simple terms... true dymaic compression ratio involves enough variables that accurate measurement is unlikely. Simply- static CR includes the entire stroke, as Terry mentioned. Generally DCR is figured from the point at which the intake valve closes, and actual compression can begin. Good explanation and great free calculator here: http://members.uia.net/pkelley2/DynamicCR.html I don't beleive valve size would enter into this unless they (and not port size/volume) are a significant restriction to flow. Logically this could only occur at higher RPM, so a true DCR might vary with engine speed.... Not nearly as thorough as Grumpyvette, but hth.

Some possibilites (there are likely others, I don't run a tranny shop). I'd pull the tranny dipstick, both to check fluid level, and to smell it. If the fluid is nice and pink or even sort of a root beer color with no burned odor, you may be lucky... if you have a high stall converter it might be that your only problem is in the torque conveter control valve, either bad or not being actuated. That would have you running down the road at an abnomally high rpm due to an unlocked converter. Count the shifts too... is 4th gear really there? Bright clean fluid and no 4th gear could be crud in the valve body. If the fluid smells burned, it's gonna need a rebuild soon.

If a person didn't use a stirrup on the bottom of the new shock (to straddle the half shaft/center the shock) there would seem to be a pretty good bending moment/angular twist induced at the lower shock attachment point. Cute idea, now all we need is the correct dimensions (geometry) for good handling.

I like it... Hybrids play in Peoria!

I very definitely second Dan's request, and will muddy the waters a bit further by mentioning that I have both my original 240 struts and 280 struts as well (for both front and rear of the car). Is there any advantage to running one type over the other? Or a half and half combination front/rear? Thanks guys... suspension is an area where help is appreciated.

As you have determined, it needs help- rebuild/replacement time. 70 psi at startup indicates that all the galley plugs are in place; as the oil warms and thins, the pressure goes away. Since it is rattling, at least some of the bearings are gone- probably all of them-, so it needs a crank (if you are lucky none of the bearings have spun =crossing fingers= and the rod big ends are still round). This may all have been precipitated by a cam failure, so look for worn cam lobes while you have the engine apart. I'd do a full teardown, thoroughly clean it all (esp. oil galleys), look at/measure everything to see what is still useable and go from there. Maybe someone else has a rosier view, but this is the sad sight in my crystal ball... sorry

They look to me like they may be Trick Flow-- the valves are canted, and the rocker bosses are therefore not in a straight line. Not your garden variety Chebby head. May require special pistons? Did some of the early Trick Flows have problems?

This looked really nice when I built it, fresh paint and everything... http://hybridz.org/nuke/modules.php?op=modload&name=coppermine&file=displayimage&album=2&pos=584

$5k... Ouch! Thanks for the explanation John; always nice to acquire knowledge without the original cost. (My assumption is that this caused the heating at Thunder Hill)?. Sounds like your engine runs so hot with a normal cap that the tiny bubbles can't shed their heat of vaporization & things cascade. Cooling system wasn't designed for your kind of power .

It is "Best" to run the pressure for which the system was designed. If a stock system is not doing the job, raising pressure is only a band-aid to cover the true problem (plugged radiator, bad pump, head gasket etc.). Raising the pressure causes more flexing in the radiator tanks due to heat cycling (shortened fatigue life/eventual cracks), and higher stresses on hoses. It may help short term, but it could also cause an old system/radiator to develop leaks. Since this is a hybrid site, design pressure will probably depend on the radiator manufacturer's specs. If a range of pressures is shown, I would prefer to try the lower end first. But then, I've never run a 'nucleate' coolant ... maybe John can expand on that racer's tip.

There are cheap wire feed welders that use a flux cored wire; Not my choice. I don't enjoy chipping slag nor sucking flux smoke into my lungs. Mig is the way to go... my baby Miller uses CO2 and .023 wire, will weld anything I've seen on a Z. (Talking body/subframe here- exclude cast and aluminum). Tig is an arc process, difficult to master. It involves dancing on a foot pedal to modulate the heat, keeping the tungsten electrode out of the puddle (balls it up) and feeding in weld metal by hand as if you were gas welding. (Ask an expert for a more thorough/technical description if you need one).

Big Brother (homeland insecurity) will always be watching, no matter how ineffectually, so never say anything that you wouldn't have announced in church, no matter whose services you employ (or attend). Bomb sarin ricin castor beans machine guns white house. That should do it... Hi Guys! Have a nice labor day holiday.