A. G. Olphart

Scottie-- It is a little early, perhaps, but how is your wife doing? Man I hope that everything still works & she is doing well. Scars and hurricanes-- life can really be a bitch.

If your engine cools well with your current 13 pound cap, raising the pressure will make no difference. The car will still run at 198 degrees. Higher pressure caps allow higher cooling system temperatures to be seen without boiling over. The higher the pressure, the hotter things can run and still avoid disaster. If the system is adequately sized and has sufficient airflow, the thermostat determines operating temperature. Given your example, the 10 pound cap should have no effect either (with luck and no hot spots) as the coolant is below its boiling point. I looked for a site with a temperature vs. pressure chart and found this... http://www.are.com.au/techtalk/coolants.htm

Copper works, but normal vibrations cause it to work harden and crack. We had a tranny line on a torqueflite crack and break at a tranny fitting: Gusher. Good thing it happened in a town and not on the road.

Maybe it was Rainier Ale (AKA the Green Death); much more flavor and no one else will/would touch it at a party.

Non stock wheel and tire combinations which move the tire contact patch outward (towards the fenders) can cause dartiness, as can excess toe out. I'll put in with the other guys here though... suspension bits moving about due to wear are the most likely culprits.

Does 'Vega' sound familiar?? Let's hope BMW has better luck than Chevy.

Thanks

One could turn on the light inside at night and check the effect.

Sorry, but it kind of sounds like you are trying hard... The problem in your scenario is not the weapons, but the people, their chosen form of chemical recreation, and your lack of responsibility as a host. If you really want to protect the neighbors from crazed partrygoers, please feel free to outlaw any vehicle that weighs over 150 pounds and can travel faster than a running man. Then should everyone leave the party to drive through the neighborhood mall, the shoppers will have an even chance. H'mm, they could still hurt old people in walkers... maybe we should drop that maximum weight. There is no way to remove all risks from the world: We can't crawl back into a nice, safe, womb. No matter how hard we try and what laws are enacted, each of us will die from something. The benefits of an armed populace outweigh the damage done by a few idiots. (I realize that this is cold comfort to anyone/family member who is harmed by your hypothetical party pals).

I'll begin with the acknowledgment that I am now an NRA member... I joined them a few years back to support the right to keep and bear arms. I feel that it is an absolute right under the constitution (based on a fair knowledge of American English), but the supreme court has seen fit to change that. On the other hand, I haven't shot a gun in years. That said, outlawing guns will work about as well as outlawing heroin, cocaine, crank, etc. has worked. Those willing to search them out in the black market/criminal society will always have them. And as pointed out previously, they will KNOW that their victims are unarmed. Do you really want a class of wolves free to prey upon us sheep? I'm against any kind of controls-- due to the 'camels nose' aspect. Once ugly semi autos are banned (and the killing doesn't end) someone will rightly point out that grandpa's Browning is functionally similar, and there go the hunting rifles too. I find comfort in the thought that an armed populace can make it uncomfortable for an aggressor. As we have recently discovered, it is one thing to drive a tank convoy through a country, and quite another to control it.

Sounds like you are struggling a bit--- Perhaps (maybe?) these will help: http://www.team.net/sol/tech/su-tune.html http://www.vtr.org/maintain/carbs.html http://www.zcar.com/forums/read.php?f=1&i=152857&t=152847 It has been years since I worked on SU's personally; hope the links do some good..

Yup, V8 Vairs are quick. My 65 was a lot of fun, but it got light in front at speed. (Even with the SBC where the back seat once had been-- quite a bit forward of where the original pancake 6 had lived).

If you aren't afraid of getting 'car cooties' you can just suck on the hose to the vacuum unit on the distributor... If it won't hold a vacuum against your tongue, the diaphragm is bad. If you take the cap off the distributor and repeat the procedure, you should see the breaker plate move. PS- This looks like a generic "ignition and electrical" type question. FYI: The mechanical advance could be stuck and cause your bog, but the vacuum advance is there for fuel economy, and doesn't do much if anything at WOT (very little vacuum).

Sorry, double posted.

Once you get it running, your compression may come back. Some of the valves had to be hung open all the time it sat, and rust will hopefully wear away. Where did you have spark? At the coil, or at the plugs? (Bad cap/rotor)? I know nothing of injection, but basic electricity says that if neither post of the injector is internally grounded, it shouldn't matter which way the juice runs through the coil. All the change in polarity would do is reverse the poles of the electromagnetic field. Timing should not have changed; if it ran after he hit the deer (nothing broken by impact) it should run now. Is your gas OK? Luck.

Sorry about the earlier dissertation; I generally read posts to the signature & ignore the rest... Got bit this time. Should have left Terry's answer alone. If your secondaries were opening you would see the diaphragm rod go up, and the throttle shaft turn. Unless you are seeing great gobs of black smoke (like a stuck choke) at the same time that the engine stumbles, I'd still guess lean. Snapping the throttle wide open from idle pretty much kills any vacuum, so the pump is all that feeds the engine for a while. If it eats the pump shot before RPM and vacuum come up... Holley sells an assortment of cams for us tinkerers to play with; hope you find the right one. (You might want to try the other hole in the one you have just to see what happens).

The guys have it right... lack of fuel off the line. There is a bit of time as the throttles are dumped open when there is very little airflow through the carbs venturis; getting rpms up and thus past that point quickly minimizes bog. There are several factors involved- cam, gears, stall speed and mechanical vs. vacuum secondaries among them. If the fixes suggested in earlier posts aren't enough to cure the problem, deeper gears (higher numerical), looser converter/higher stall speed and a vacuum secondary carb all help The accelerator pump covers for the lack of fuel through the main system after the transfer slots have been uncovered. If your cam needs more RPM to idle, tweaking the set screw/ throttle stop on the secondaries open a bit more will allow the primary's transfer slots to remain in play. Believe it or not, there once was a time when it was ultra cool to have a mechanical sec. carb so big that the engine could be killed by flooring the throttle. Note that I said cool, not logical.

My wife says "That's stupid, 11:1 with that garbage they call gas now days!" I'm inclined to agree with her, especially since you specify a moderate cam... guess that might depend on your definition of moderation. You undoubtably have aluminum heads and Pat's DCR calculator, so let us know the exact combination and the outcome. I, for one, am always happy to gather new knowledge (particularly when someone else is footing the bill).

It may be a wiring problem, or the regulator could be bad.. Here are some links on wiring one up-- http://www.oldengine.org/unfaq/10si.htm http://www.derbypro.com/tut4.html http://www.rowand.net/Shop/Tech/GmAlternatorIdentification.htm One caveat regarding the test described in #4 of the second link: per an old Chilton's manual that I have, your screwdriver should only have to go in 3/4" or so to depress the grounding tab (never over an inch). If grounding this tab raises the output voltage, the alternator is good and the regulator (internal) is bad.

Congrats Mark, good looking mags... I've always been partial to them. I see a lack of intake manifold as well as missing carburetion; that may keep you parked for a while

There are others on the board who race (and win) who may chip in here, but I'll give you my .02 worth. Smaller tires and wheels tend to weigh less, and less unsprung weight helps in rough (bumpy) corners. The shocks have less to control, so the tires are in more continual contact with the road surface. There is another penalty in running bigger/heavier wheels and tires beyond unsprung weight: rotational inertia. The wheels/tires act as flywheels, making the vehicle marginally slower to accelerate and decelerate. Bigger wheels, bigger flywheel effect. Your lower profile tires have less sidewall flex, which helps lessen body lean and promotes a more direct/responsive steering feel. I'd guess that and the lower C.G. is why you like them. You are correct in that they also give you a slightly higher (numerically) effective overall gear ratio for quicker acceleration (but likely poorer gas mileage- sorry). Tire construction and compounds can play a huge part in both rolling resistance (for mileage) and roadholding. That is one of many subjects of which I have no knowledge.

Almost 'Nuf said . The lowering kits run stiffer springs to avoid the bottom dragging that you are experiencing. Suspension setup always involves priorites and compromises; tight handling normally comes at the expense of some ride quality.

You mean, if we get it running, we can graduate to the real world? Uh,ooh... Just like college. I'm gonna be here forever.

You are very welcome, and I look forward to your 'after the experience' post(s)

Nah, they won't take used shocks in trade... but I'll pay shipping so that you can get rid of them !!