wingnutthehutt

I'm apparently no longer classified as a donating member so I can't post this in the classifieds. However, I'm not selling anything so please let this stand or move it to the correct location. I no longer have a Z so I am DONATING the following literature to a needy person in the Sacramento, CA area. If anyone is interested, please email me. I will try to check this thread as well but email is best. How To Restore Your Z Car How To Modify Your Nissan Datsun OHC Engine Clymer Manual, 70-78 Datsun 240-280Z Aaaaand, a pair of black 280Z rocker panel panel stripes. I have a gas door floating around somewhere too so if I find it I'll throw that in with the books.

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Holy thread resurrection, Batman!

Thanks, John. Unfortunately my sister decided to pass on the car. And as I don't need another vehicle (have room for another one) it will probably be someone else toy very shortly.

Hey guys, I found this 83 Corolla on CL this afternoon. The price is a bit high, but the thing is immaculate. She was looking for something newer, she's 22, but likes the idea of it being different and reliable etc. I know it's not a Z, but this is the place to come for realistic input. Does anyone have a KBB for early cars? Thoughts? Seems a bit high, but if it was newer it'd be worth 10 grand or better. http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/1150175043.html Here's the photobucket gallery. http://picasaweb.google.com/VWEMPIRE/1983Corolla# I can go get it today, but what should I look for on a car like this? Carl

Breif update: Lisa took the car to a mechanic her in Sacramento that lives near her. He does a lot of sidework and agreed to change the plugs. As soon as the plugs came out we knew we had a problem. It's definately a sludge issue. LexusToyota will cover the car up to 8.5 years after date of purchase. It's now been 9.5. When she purchased the car we made sure she paid for a warranty on it. We'll see how it goes on that front. It's little consolation that I talked them down $3k.

This isn't mine, but it sure looks interesting. http://sacramento.craigslist.org/cto/934532894.html

I think it's popularity will wane as the people who attempt it either wreck their cars or discover regular cornering. I don't think it will go away. I drift my truck into the parking lot at work almost every day, I love being sideways. But I would rather being hauling around Sears Point, Thunderhill or Laguna Seca on my streetbike. I think it'd be cool if it stuck around but it's boring as hell to watch on TV. Plus, the whole judged thing means it's not really a race...

Good thought on getting it in writing. Normally I wouldn't take it to a Volvo dealer either (technically volvo bmw) but that's where we bought it and there is no Lexus dealer in town. I don't think there's even a 'Yota dealer. Salem is friggin' tiny compared to every other capital city I've been to. It's 80% state workers too. I exaggerate, but it's still very high.

Good God! Everything else you wrote scared the crap outta me. I'll pull the VC when I get there and check for sludge. If there's evidence, that cars going back up for sale, pronto. Thanks for identifying yourself as someone whom I requested to respond. No offense to everybody else who is trying to be helpful but explaining how dealerships charge is something I learned ten years ago.

132815 p0300 was the code. It has about 100k on the dial. Runs perfect until it threw the code last week. She's had a couple little electrical gremlins recently taken care of such as a door lock switch and a seatbelt sensor or something. She's only had it for about three months though. The 700 miles makes it difficult to be as involved as I'd like to be.

Geez, ok. Thanks for the response. I wasn't having much luck with Google for some reason. This doesn't sound like something I want to do with tools in my carry-on. They told her that was the only code. I made sure they gave her the code and then I looked it up. They say it's plugs, we do the plugs. But I'll be darned if I can justify 400 bucks to change some stupid plugs. Geez. Next time she wants a new car I'm telling her to save her cash and we're building a 57 Chevy. Hahaha.

Hey, it's even easier to paint than a rustoleum car. Just slather on the Thompson's!

Hey guys, I have a slight dilemma. My girlfriend is currently living in Salem, Oregon. She got transferred for work. Her 99 RX300 recently threw a "random misfire" code. The techs at the Volvo dealership, where she bought the car, quoted her $373 for parts and labor. Now, I know it's not a small block chevy, but that seems kinda ridiculous to change some spark plugs. Here's the deal. I'm going up there in three weeks. 1- Does anyone know EXACTLY which tools I should take with me to do this? 2- Is there an HZ member mechanic in the Salem area who won't "take advantage" of my girlfriend? (In both senses.) I have no problem waiting to do the work, but she's screaming that it's sucking gas like Gary Busey on a coke binge. Thoughts? Thanks, Carl

Are you suggesting running two short springs one on top of the other or different left and right?

I would like to agree on the whole higher percentage thing. I've been doing turnworking for Keith Code for about six years now. I see LOTS of low sides. Usually it's a newb goin' for the brakes midcorner. Or target fixation.

You're pretty right on, John C. A quick note: On the rear, it's far better to have your springs too soft than it is to have them too stiff. A stiff spring will blow off the tire immediately but a soft spring will compress and grab. Also, the front wheels coming completely off will transfer yet more weight. Some cars need that longer duration transfer, especially low powered (read less than 700) cars that don't have the ability to continue pushing the rear tire into the ground. If the front end comes down too quickly, then all of the transfer is lost. That's commonly what is the cause of the car blowing settling and then blowing the tires off.

First, Savagexxx, you don't see ZZR's becuase they are ZX6-r's from six years ago. I have the same bike sitting in my garage. Second, why is everyone telling this guy to get a BIG bike? Pete84: I would recommend an EX500 hands down. Not enough power to get you in trouble, light, flickable, good fuel economy, low insurance, and enough juice to get out of trouble and have fun. In six months when you decide you're ready for more power, gas will still be expensive and you won't lose ANY money if you play your cards right. I'm not blowing smoke, I've had several friends listen to me and do EXACTLY that. The 650R is also an excellent bike. Don't fall for the typically American viewpoint that you have to have the most powerful bike out there. Would you really want 1400 hp in your Z after getting your drivers license the day before? That's what your power to weight ratio would be like. I had a YZF600F, which is now called a 600R a few years back, in 2000 I think. It was a good bike. Not necessarily what I would recommend for a starter bike though. The learning curve is easier with less power on tap. You tend to scare yourself less. I think the YZF was my third street bike. I know it doesn't count for anything on the internet, but I have been riding for 12 years, raced for two, taught professionally for a year, and have volunteered at I don't know how many track schools. I also have raced a bit here and there.

I'm gonna have to track some of those down. My buddy at work is an unrepentant Ford guy.

I will reserve judgement until there are more angles as far as the REAL 370 goes. But I have to agree, that "rendering" looks lik absolute garbage. It looks like the bastard child of a Maserati and an Altima. Hope no one here drew it.

Ya, there were already 1000 guys trying to do that on Sunset Strip back in 1985. If I was trying to copy someone's tone, it'd be Zakk anyway.

Thanks, that might be a good place for me to start looking.

The car is "fairly" solid. Some minor issues here and there, but nothing that your average Z wouldn't have. The rear needs rebuilt, it has a serious growl. The difficult part is that I can't just call up Strange and say, hey, send me kit PRP130-rbld or something. I'd like to keep it in there. The original plan was to swap the floor pan out from a firebird and go to a 12 bolt, but it's just so cool I'd hate to mod it.

Hey everybody, I know this is totally off continent, but I figured I'd give it a shot. Does anyone know where I can get info about the power handling capabilities of early 60s Pontiac transaxles? The only contact I have is Arnie Beswick and I'd rather not bother him as he's a customer where I work, but not mine. I have a 63 tempest and I'm debating driveline changes. Any help, directions, contentions that I should f-off are much appreciated. Carl