SUNNY Z

Except its all rubber connectors that get nasty way fast. I love my silicone. and I'm not just talking connectors ( . Y . ) ....... ok maybe i am.

Damn you southerners and your warm weather! I want the first 10 sec pass! haha. Oh well. All goes right, I might be hunting the first of another kind..........

With a 4" intake, its not going to care how many elbows there are. Put it out of the engine bay, and forget about it. Here is what I did, and I have the same basic parts you do. I just wrapped my MAF with tape until it met the 4" diameter, so i could use the coupler. I used a ~4" length of " tubing to join the coupler and the filter. My IAT's are 5-7* above ambient, ALL the time. Thats much better than most stock location setups, on any platform.

Lokar cable. Forgot the length.

The bottle will be on the deck, behind the passenger's seat, for now. I plan on dropping it to the real floor, eventually, or 12 sneaky petes. ALA fast and the furious. I hope my floor board doesn't drop out though.

I was trying to restrain myself from posting this, but oh well! And the electronics Not finished, but i'll keep you updated!

Best (ONLY) of 2012. H/C/I LS1, 6 speed 60' -- 1.576 1/8 -- 7.080 @ 99.77 1/4 -- 11.009 @ 125.24

what brand? I know some people have had great luck with the ON3 stuff.

Because I want to know! See if i should start shopping for a 240 shell .. lol

We don't have any dates set yet. The weather still isn't fully cooperating. It snowed very lightly last night. I imagine it will be at least 3 weeks before I hit a track. You should weigh your car. Most tracks have scales.

Wait, WHAT N2O? Lol thats the in progress project. Shhhhh, don't tell the locals. There are a couple 800+ hp cobras that I want to surprise!

PIcs of the engine bay / catch can system, as promised. Here she is! Theres still some projects happening in this picture, to be clear. (because the picture isn't) :/ Catch can is a Moroso. Like $35 from summit. Welded on -10 bungs to each valve cover at the rear. 90* fittings on both valve covers, and on the drivers side of the catch can. I used a 135* fitting on the intake side where it was tight. ~4.5' of -10 braided line.

I wired mine a little differently for simplification and to get rid of 5 miles of wire. I would like to know where to add the diode, and what wires to connect to get high beams. Pictured below is my current setup. Thanks!

I sure can do that. I still have one small bracket to modify to fully mount the catch can, but its in place, and working for the time being.

So, where do the high/ low switch wires go to?

My coilovers don't have a seperate preload and height adjustment. . I'm beginning to think about upgrading to some that do though, after this whole fiasco. as seen here.............................

Installed my HID's last night. WOW. I forgot what its like to drive something with headlights! I also found the root cause of my headlight problems. One of the previous owners had done some VERY questionable wiring on the headlight circuit, and was shorting out. Once i found the splice, I took the electrical tape off it, and the connectors literally all came off in my hands. I can't believe some people actually think that only crimping on connectors is enough for a long-term repair. Drove to a friend's house to pick up a spanner wrench to adjust ride height some more, and came back to crash. Hopefully get the rear raised up some more today and put the rear flares on, so I can trim my mullet.

Here is the ground clearance with the ls3 pan. Front is on 2x4s.

I just installed a brand new trac loc in my 8.8 IRS. Can't beat the price. $219 to my door from buyfordracing.com . I'll be able to tell you more on this in a month when i've gotten some track time

I had a dream that I almost smacked a deer while driving last night! Wait that was real! Right in the middle of town close to my house, I had one run in front of me. I am going home and installing my Dapper HID's tonight! My headlights are comical at best.

thanks for putting all this together in one spot, keith. Should help people in the future... i know it would have saved me some time. Edit for PN's Lug Nuts - Gorilla 40037 Studs - ARP 100-7708

I was able to get the car completely back together tonight, and put 28 trouble free miles on it! I am ecstatic that the vibration in the transmission is GONE. The diff seems to be functioning properly, and no abnormal noises, etc. I haven't really put much power to it yet, as I was breaking in the gears. Later this week I'l have more to report on that.

I'm happy to report that i put 28 trouble-free miles on the car tonight! All I had to do was raise the rear up from where I had it initially. Still needs to come up some, but its not bottoming out on my fenders anymore. Pretty exciting!

What manifold is that?

I'd agree in saying that my angles may not have been the best. But after searching for a clutch posi for months (under $800) and not finding one, and the continued breakage, i got fed up. Driveshaft is long enough. I was having a hypocardriac moment i guess. It is only 1.125" from full engagement of the splines, leaving 2.875" on the output shaft, by my figures. Car is back together, save torquing the axles and topping off coolant. Here are some pics to tide you over. As you can see, the diff would ideally need to go backwards for a perfect angle. However, i moved the strut tubes to the rear of the car 3/4" ( to center the wheels), so that has something to do with it. Stock location would likely be perfect. Exhaust (pre-x pipe) on X pipe on. Fitment is actually better than it was with the R200.