SUNNY Z

I'm using the Z32 rear brakes and keeping the E brake, FWIW. You just need the backing plates, wheel bearings, and e brake assemblies from a Z32 NA. NA and turbo are the same IIRC. The Z32 NA stuff is the same spline count as the 240sx. The turbo stuff is bigger. Food for thought.

I should probably upgrade to a 1" MC as well as I've upgraded the brakes to bigger stuff all around.

You will only hook up the line lock to the front brakes anyway...... At least that's the way 99.99999% of people do it. I've used it to lock the fronts with the car in the air so i could change a tire, but you always want to release it. Just put the car in gear to do the rears. Carry a chunk of 2x4 behind the seat. Ghetto, but you can reach behind the rear wheel from the drivers seat. I've heard that this works great. Another plus of the brake upgrade i'm doing. Wewt, regaining stock functions (e brake)

Just buy a summit one for like $40 and make your own lines. DO NOT ever use for extended periods of time. It is a solenoid, and like any solenoid, when over used can overheat and cause a fire. Unless you're into that, then by all means, go ahead! I might add that my summit line lock has been going strong for about 4 years.

I was merely saying this because by the time you wrap up money in a harness, PCM, pay for credits, and pay someone to tune it, you'd be money ahead by building your own harness and tuning it yourself. If I had done more research, I would have done this. It eliminates the need for an expensive 2 step box (which i bought) and also would allow me to eliminate several wires from the harness, which would help clean up the under-hood. Which is where i'd like to be in the future, regardless of tuning software.

You can just use a temp probe from a 98 ls1. They have a 3rd wire that you can hook up to a gauge. Keeps with the factory look and function. One less wire to deal with.

"stock" "bolt-ons" What tuning suite are you using, and what year PCM? I've gained a lot of respect for the micro / mega squirt systems lately..... so just curious.

Not completely outside, just in a sheisty 1 car garage with zero insulation, and the thing flaps in the wind.

It was 1 degree outside when I woke up this morning Keith. A DEGREE.

Busy at work + coooooold temps have kept me out of the garage lately. I did pull the parts out of the evaporust tonight though. (after i brought it inside to thaw)... its water based.... Signs you're single / signs "f*** it, its a rental" Brake parts on the kitchen counter a random rusty wrench i tossed on top just to show how well this stuff works. yayyyyy

Been there, done that.

You should try building something that doesn't have parts sticking out of the hood! LOL Just messing. I look forward to seeing this happen. I'll just live vicariously through you until I buy a house and can hear that whistle under my own hood!

Rear brakes showed up today. Going with the Z32 rear brakes - MUCH larger than the 240sx stuff that was on there. I disassembled it all and left all the springs and other rusty bits to soak in Evaporust - stuff is amazing. I might also add that the DSS will be starting on my axles and driveshaft this week. After the incredible service that they've given me, I'd have a hard time going anywhere else.

There's always a better mouse trap, isnt there? Moser is just as expensive to have make axles as is the driveshaft shop. Only, Moser doesn't put things like this together. There are plenty of brake options for the backing plates. OEM and aftermarket.......

Either way, we're talking 3/4". I doubt it will be a huge deal..... at least I hope not because I really don't want to re-do this thing lol.

As stated, build as you go. I have two straight pipes that have to be indexed so everything lines up. For these, I got them where I wanted them, and welded a strap between them to prevent rotation. Would recommend. Also, I would add another set of V bands (my plan upcoming) to the section shown here with the mufflers. It can be a bit clunky when installing / removing by yourself Another thing : Think about maintenance when making your exhaust. I placed my vbands just behind my tranny, so I just have to take out the middle section when I need to take the trans out. The rest stays in the car.

Measured for axles and driveshaft today. From the diff to the wheel bearing face is 18 7/8" and 18 1/2" at ride height. Our initial diff placement measurements weren't perfect (tape measure with the diff on a jack) lol. So its offset to the passenger's side by 3/16". Not bad though. The driveshaft measurement: From pinon flange to the tip of the tail shaft on the trans is 29.5"

Starting to look more like a car again. I have both sides installed, and axles / driveshaft are ready to be measured. Waiting on the brakes to arrive this week, and i'll be able to actually get something done! can't see a lot, but there it is. Shameless plug for T3. Their pieces are very nice, and go together marvelously!

Looks like fun!

Wow thats a lot of steps. I just upload it to photobucket from my phone and post the link on the site......

you won't regret this.

Boyracer. I've seen a lot of shafts , and that is by far the strangest one. That looks like a really bad idea. No driveshaft should be two tubes welded together......

eeek. 2"? that just makes me nervous. mine was 3" steel, and i think my new one will be 3 or 3.5" aluminum. JCI's price is good, but as hard as you're planning on beating on it, i'd consider something more robust.

I'd do something about that before it makes a huge mess... because it will.

boo-hisss