SUNNY Z

So the rabbit hole keeps going deeper. Checked the backlash on the diff before changing the posi. Its at .022". Spec is .008-.010". SO it looks like i'll be replacing the gear set as well............Not happy.

No problem there. Cut a chunk of 1.5" hose the length of the water pump outlet, install. Then slide the 1.75" hose over that. Clamp, enjoy. I've been rocking an upper hose with this exact thing done for 4K miles, no problems whatsoever.

^ thats 2 too many in my book.

Looks good! keep us updated.

SHEESH, is that all in your SIG?!>!??! its like its own thread!

Lol. couldn't have put it better myself, Keith. The posi unit (see other thread), mainshaft, driveshaft, axles, and brake line components should be here this week. I'm going to celebrate easter by myself in the garage i think. I want to be driving it within 10 days. Doing some serious planning/ buying right now.

They're back on, and being mostly hidden by the coil packs. I'll post some more when I get back out there.

After taking a closer look at the diff, I decided to replace the posi unit. The spider gears were munched up a little bit, and for 220 shipped, I couldn't resist a brand new posi unit. spider gears: Might be something to be aware of if youre inspecting one to buy. already LOVING my DOMESTIC parts. Took me 2 minutes to find exactly what i needed online.

Finished the valve covers yesterday. Sand blasted them, had -10 fittings welded on (for pcv), hot tanked them, and painted them with some black crinkle paint. I liked how they came out.

Today I learned: The Z32 e-brake assemblies have to be swapped side to side. This includes backing plates. I'm not sure which hub i used on which side, but i would imagine that they are also reversed from where they originally were intended. I bought all the e-brake cables, so those should be here early in the week. Driveshaft and axles the same. EDIT= Adding info from last post. Just wanted to give some insight on how to re-drill for 4 lug (going backwards as some have put it) Knock all the studs out of your hub except one. Pick one of the 5 lug holes, and place the stud through that hole (backwards. picture putting the rotor on the hub inside out, or with the outer surface of the hat touching the hub). You re-use one hole, and drill 3. Lucky for us, the rotors are hub-centric, so you really can't mess it up. I marked all three with a center punch, and drilled them out. I had to use a rat tail file on a couple holes, but all in all it went pretty smooth!

I need to do this. Is the 280 rack the same as the 240? Thanks!

Sometimes I feel that if I didn't have bad luck, I'd have no luck at all.......... So I sent the main shaft out of the transmission to a machine shop 2.5 weeks ago. They had shafts that were already machined, and ready to go out the door, but I opted to have them machine MY shaft, so I could keep the bearing on it, and not have to re-shim the trans. I get a call today, and they FINALLY have my shaft done, but they somehow mangeled the bearing in the process, and the machining didn't come out 100% smooth (not a problem because its only a gear that presses on it) . So the shop offers to send me a new bearing and race along with the main shaft. I accept (no other option really). So long story short, I waited 2.5 weeks for a machined main shaft that I could have had in a couple days, and I STILL have to re-shim the trans. FRUSTRATING

fwiw, Z32 rear brakes fit with no problems behind these.

Thanks!!!!! http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/96953-my-240-rb26-build/page-6?do=findComment&comment=944570 Post 102 FWIW.

I'm trying to get my new e-brake setup going. Techno Toy Tuning backing plates with z32 rear brakes. I would just use the Z32 cable, but mine were both broken when I got them, and they're too long. I was just curious if anyone has shortened these cables (or any) and could give me some advice. I'd like to know if this will even possibly work before i order 2 new cables and start hacking on them. Thanks!

Backing plates. Drilled out the spot welds for the dust shields, sand blasted, and painted them. Wheel bearings / Hubs. New ARP studs Re-drilled rotors. Mock up of calipers. Going to order lines tonight hopefully

mmm. i'd say its 1-1.5" longer.

http://www.summitrac...-7708/overview/

Thanks Keith! They are an M12 x 1.50 . 2.5" under knurl length. I used an old open ended lug nut, and a pair of 12mm washers (essential) to pull them in. Just put it in the vice and gave er hell. They've been on national backorder, might be in stock now. I had to wait a month for mine. @ summit -----> http://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-100-7708/overview/ with gorilla lug nuts. 90037B IIRC. I went with a 3/4" size so i could get a socket inside my wheels. the 13/16 gnarls them up.

Well, the driveshaft shop was forced to move buildings do to eminent domain, so they won't be starting my stuff until monday. I installed ARP studs on the rear hubs tonight. Used F body camaro studs, as they're suuuuper close to the right diameter, and much cheaper. I'll post pics of the finished product. Should be able to get most of the brakes assembled tomorrow if we can drill the rotors for 4 lug. Depends on a buddy's schedule. One step closer!

I cried a little inside when I cut my rears. I took 3.5" out at the center of the wheel well. 26" tires here. If you want a "tucked" look, I wouldn't recommend cutting as much as I did. The top of my tire is still visible under the flare (from side view) at ride height. If i had it to do over again, I would have mounted my flares lower, and given it a more tucked look. But hey, live and learn! I will also add that I had to cut some more out of the front from what is shown. This is assuming stock geometry suspension.

Installed my ARP wheel studs all around tonight. For those curious, just buy the F Body camaro ones, the knurl diameter is like .002 larger. They work perfect, and are a fraction of the cost of the miata studs, or whatever other option is out there. Plus, you end up with 4 extras! Thats about all i got done. Tomorrow I'll finish sand blasting some parts, painting them, and installing all the rear brakes. Hopefully have a plan in place to get the E brake working too. Shouldn't be too hard.

Not for me. The engine just looks confused, like it doesn't know how old it is. I'm more of a fan of relocated coils and clean valve covers. or even nice valve covers with the coils mounted on them. It does clean up the bay a bit though!

The JTR flange that mates to the R200 is only a 1310 u-joint. To my knowledge, no one makes a larger flange (not that it should be a problem - power level and usage depending) I would just go with a slip yoke. No sense in complicating things and making them more expensive.

Oil pan is IN! It was a bit of a pain, but not terrible. I had to take the passengers side engine mount bolt out, and used a 2x4 and a floor jack to lift the engine to get enough clearance at the crossmember to slide the pan in. It fits very nice though, and required no mods. However, the low oil switch is pretty close to the header on the pass side, but not a big deal. The headers are definitely lower than the oil pan now, so thats a good piece of mind. I also gained some baffling (no more oil starvation worries!) Not that it was ever a huge concern, but if I actually do get to the road course this year, it will be one less thing to worry about.