SUNNY Z

They're just the ground control stuff for a 240z. I believe they're also for a tokico 5 way bz3099 shock. not sure on the shock.

And a good point it is. I'll lose no clearance with this setup, which is crucial.

I guess we'll find out if I ever break a driveshaft.

1/8" is pretty tight, but you should still be able to get the axle out. I'd go for 3/16" to 1/4" personally. No sense in fixing the problem, and in turn making it harder to service than need be.

It's 2"x1/4" steel. When its welded, it will be plenty solid.

Two thing. Flares / body are playing tricks on you. Also, there is a slight amount of toe in on the rear wheels in all S30's. Do you want that CV cup?

THIS is a q45 axle. only one cup per axle with a mounting face, thus the need for 4 axles to do a conversion. I have an extra cup of that style that I'd part with btw

Not a fan to be honest. I don't like how its just a strip down the middle, and then you still have area thats open - but with no grill. and to the above - yes, I saw the one with the GT mustang grill. However, I don't want fog lights in mine, and I was going to use a V6 grill instead......

Haha, if you lived closer, I'd gladly give you a hand! What do you mean my "knee bar"? The door bar? I"ll be putting swing outs on mine if / when I ever cage it, and leaving them out unless I'm going to the track.

I got quoted 1100 today for an 8.50 cert cage. I've also been quoted 2K for the same cage. Just to give you an idea. I'd say 1500 ish is fair.

You sir, just made an overgrown go-kart.

Your post today got me thinking.... I bought a generic driveshaft loop with intentions of modifying it, but I'd never gotten around to it. SO thats what I did today. I bought this one: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g7900 and hacked it up. I added it to my existing tranny crossmember, and viola! Hope this gives you some insight.

Looks like the exact same problem I had when my axles were too short. It pulled out when I got on the gas real hard, and spun the balls and cage in the cup, just like your picture, and destroyed the cup. My car is basically the exact same height as yours. I'd bet you that axle length (too short) is where your problem lies. Check the clearance between the companion flange and the the CV cup where they mate, when your suspension is at full droop, and the axle is completely compressed. Get that #, and report back.

Just wondering how the ford parts equate to a stronger knuckle than the T3 stuff? I do know that the Q45/ 300zxTT outer stub that goes through the knuckle is 2mm larger than the ford stuff. Looking great! I wish i had access to a tubing bender and a nice mig/tig... I'm working out of a 1 car garage in an apartment complex ! lol I like how you incorporated the mustache bar. However, I'm not sold on how you captivated the rear of the lca. It will work great for you, but for me to drop my diff, the lca's have to be loose on the inside, and folded down, due to the big ears on the cover. Great progress, looking forward to seeing some footage of this thing!

Pretty sure thats not NHRA legal, which I'm willing to bet thats what he's after, other than safety. "all cars in competition using open driveshafts must have a retainer loop 360 degrees of enclosure, 1/4-inch minimum thickness and 2 inches wide, or 7/8-inch x .065-inch welded steel tubing, securely mounted and located within 6 inches of the front universal joint for support of the driveshaft in event of U-joint failure. Open drivelines passing any part of the driver’s body must be completely enclosed in 1/8- inch minimum thickness steel plate, securely mounted to the frame or frame structure. Driveshaft loop required on all cars running 13.99 (*8.59) or quicker and utilizing slicks; except vehicles running 11.49 (*7.35) seconds or slower equipped with street tires."

I would bet big money that it is.

Got out to the garage for a bit today, finally. I managed to finish up the front mount (other than welding it, and trimming down some of the fat) Like I said, all i need to do is weld it up, and we should be good to go. Still playing with the pinion angle a little bit, not that it matters as much as with a live axle, but I HATE vibrations, so I'll be sure to keep it as close to 0 as possible.

Bumping this to the top. Trying to decide a direction to jump. I'm thinking about ordering this mustang grill, if its the right style, and making it fit. http://www.ebay.com/itm/2005-2008-FORD-MUSTANG-FRONT-UPPER-BILLET-GRILLE-GRILL-/300839985715?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A2005%7CModel%3AMustang&hash=item460b75e233&vxp=mtr Thoughts?

Ugh that sucks big time. once my car is up in the air, it only takes me about 30 minutes to drop the tranny, provided I have air tools. Then again, I've probably pulled 20 t56's.

Little update: Just placed my order with Techno Toy Tuning for the backing plates, and strut tubes.

Its just a Q45 diff and CF CM stub axles, if I'm not mistaken.

Yep, that bushing is pretty commonly worn on a lot of trannies. I hope you have better luck putting one in than I did. they can be a rea PITA. Probably going to have this done next time, by someone with the RIGHT tool. Keith, you dirty old man! I just saw the message above your avatar!

lol yeah, something isnt right. I just sold a pair in good shape, too!

Question 1: what do you have that has a need for a 14" wheel? Question 2: can you post a pic of said wheels mounted on the car?

1/2 of the front mount... The other half will be built later - I ran out of time. Plus, then it will all be installed and fit in the car.