SUNNY Z

#jdm Obviously you've never tried to get a 26" or larger tire on a lowered car. You'd probably cry if you saw how much I had to cut/ beat my inner fenders to make things fit. Keith - Not really NEEDING the 28's yet, but I'd like it to be a possibility. More about the slicks growing enough that they rub (taking a sledge with me to the track this time). They might grow a little bit more around 130 than at 100. I'd have to rake my car out so far as it sits to get a 28 under it, I don't think I could be caught driving it.

Had another idea today while I had the car in the air on a buddy's lift. I'd either like to talk to TTT about this, or just buy a pair of his "backing plates" and change the design. It has ALWAYS bugged me that the rear wheels on an S30 are offset to the front by over an inch. Riddle me this: Axle angles aside ( I'll be dealing with this when I mount the 8.8), Would it be possible to take a backing plate similar to T3 design, and add say an inch to the area where the rear strut mounts, and keep the lower mount in the same place. That way the strut mount and the LCA mount are in the same place, but the wheel is moved back!? T3 backing plate in reference: Handy exploded view of Z32 rear suspension - NVM the blue circles - stole the pic. This would achieve several things: - Wheel moved back, so more tire clearance!! (and be centered for us OCD ppl) - Donkey D!ck outer stub axles (and upgrade options) - 5 lug (good or bad) - Bigger brakes (good) I still think 550 is a bit steep for just the backing plates.... ho hum.

Wow I'm glad the engine noise (presumably) covers that up. However, my TOB has developed a slight squeak when its disengaged, and the car is running. Put a toe on the pedal and it goes away... can be kind of annoying.

Good god man, buy some jack stands. I'd like to see you live long enough to finish this project!

Would these fit a 280 with the infamous catalytic bump?

Haha you're not annoying me in any way. It just seems a bit redundant that this is in a couple locations, and its all fresh info, not in 100 page threads, and there's still discussion about it. I'm just trying to get productive conversation and ideas, but when 1/2 of the people are a step behind, thats annoying.

Also covered. I HAVE A THREAD YOU KNOW

The benefit would be a stub axle that has options that dont break, and yes, 5 lug. Oh yeah, and you can go to any junkyard and pull these parts. And I need you to make this work so i can do it also... haha

You completely didn't even read Xnke's response. The Ford Explorer has the cover he's talking about. It would bolt to the mustache bar, but the uprights are in the way..... I already covered this 3 clicks away in the drivetrain section. I'll leave you to your own devices i guess....

IMO the BRP kit is way nicer, but the position is so far off its almost comical. Crams the engine bay, throws off weight distribution, moves the shifter... just doesn't make sense.

Thats the first item on my list "things I'd like to have" lol If you want to make some big power on stock cubes, an AFR 205, or TFS 215 cnc or TFS 220 as casts and have them hand ported. Names to know Tony Mamo - AFR and FAST porting guru Pat G (ls1tech)- Cam spec expert. Charges like $50 to spec a cam for YOUR application. Consistently makes more power in just about any setup than an off the shelf grind, and you will have power where you want/need it. There are a TON of LS1 speed shops, and quite a few really really good ones. My favorites, and ones I've had REALLY good luck with: Vengeance Racing Texas Speed Tick Performance

Hmmm is that so?

BHP being crank hp? How much do you want to spend? AFR and Trick Flow both make badass heads, get a custom grind, not an off the shelf cam.

With the JCI kit, there are limited options that work I believe. Build your own mounts, and a newer c6 or gxp mani might work.

IF you haven't, you should check out my thread in the drivetrain section. I'm going to do an 8.8 this winter (fast approaching). Looks to be a fairly simple swap, but I'd like the input.

haha yeah. If I had a house - or even a place to keep a trailer, I'd have one. MIGHT be in the near future... we'll see.

^ Thats awesome! I want a roof rack, I just didn't know where to find one! Its not much of a big boy (the cam). 228/230 .588/.591 on a 112* LSA Actually pretty small in the cam world. Torque for days though.

I also agree that this site would benefit from being able to update posts. Keeps threads less cluttered, and to the point. Also keeps me from calling on parts that sold a year ago, but I don't want to read 6 pages of a for sale thread....

Theres a circlip on the inner, which is what that is, and a snap ring. then two snap rings on the outer, and one to retain the CV joint in the cup.

It holds just fine on the fender. Any mostly flat, clean surface.

Spent a little while doing measuring and scheming while I was rebuilding a CV axle and filling the diff before reinstallation. So I came up with more chicken scratches. ... Can you tell I was doing CV things? (grease) This drawing is to scale- except for the frame portion of the car. Disregard any lines with x's through them. Sorryi its a mess, but this is the easiest way to convey my ideas at the moment. So this is a drawing of the uprights (obviously). I'm thinking I'm going to have another set cut from 1/4" plate from my waterjet connection, when I get a good design. The hole with the "+" in it is where I would cut a circle out of the upright, and install a sleeve, with a poly bushing (just an idea to make it a little less harsh and transfer less vibration). That is also just a tentative location of the mounts - not sure as i don't have a diff yet. The R200 cover, and the 8.8 cover are both 3" thick from the mounting face, to the gasket face. The only difference being that the 8.8 has a larger ring gear, and will likely shift the carrier ~1/2" forward. I am thinking that I could make the upper horizontal portion of the upright longer, which would shift the "mount" further back, and then just accommodate at the bottom for the same amount. The front face of the uprights are within 1/4" of the front face of the mustache bar, because it curves in in the center. Essentially with this design, the mustache bar would be completely eliminated and removed, thus putting more load on the uprights, and me wanting it thicker. The bottom drawing is kind of what I have in mind with the "sleeve" idea. For those of you that aren't aware, THIS SITE is awesome for individal bushings. /braindump

Yeah. As of right now, thats the only way I have to mount it. It works good though. I've seen them hang on at 200+... so i'm not worried lol.

Its in the other thread in this forum. Its right to the inboard of the brake booster on the fire wall. I just used some emblem tape that I had.

Agh.... that picture of you unloading the car off the uhaul trailer makes me nervous. I've seen that go south before...... I always leave it hooked to the truck. Looks like you spent some coin for sure. Hope it does what you want!

Every new boot that I bought for mine came with all new clips.