SUNNY Z

Keith - this is a ~400 hp engine we're talking here, in "hobby" cars. I'd only be worried about tube length if you were trying to squeeze every last pony out of the car. I say build whatever fits!

I was able to get the rear mounts finished while I was home for thanksgiving. I ordered a pair of poly bushings off speedway motors (best speed shop in the midwest), and got them before thanksgiving. Here is the speedway PN: 91634545, Link: http://www.speedwaym...hing,58411.html I had already measured everything, and marked the uprights for the holes, so I found some pipe the right ID, and traced it onto the uprights. I then cut it out with a plasma cutter, and tacked the spools in place, allowing for the diff to be 1/2" in front of the uprights, as I'd measured for in the car - which allows clearance between the cover and the frame cross rail. I went ahead and welded both sides so it would look a little nicer and be strong to boot! Here is the result! The front bushings showed up while I was gone as well, so I'll be mounting this assembly back in the car, and doing some more design for the front mount. I'll probably copy the style of the TTT mount. It looks pretty good.

I'm going to be selling everything I have, and using a TTT strut housing, that allows the use of a Z32 / Q45 style axle and brakes. The outer shaft on a Z32 is acutally 2mm bigger than the ford outer, at 33mm IIRC. I was afraid that I might break the stubs, so I decided to eliminate them all together. Also, I'll be able to switch from 4 lug to 5 lug with only one nut per side! ... (if i ever wanted to)

Since it seems I'm only posting here to keep a record of what I'm doing....... I pulled the diff and axles today so I could do some test fitting with the 8.8. This is going to be a fairly straight forward swap it seems. With the pumpkin as high as it can go before it hits the frame of the car on the cover, it is exactly level with the centerline of the outer axles at static ride height. This is excellent, because before, my axles were at ~an 8 degree decline towards the diff. It could easily go up another 2", but that would require the cutting of the frame, and I don't think its at all necessary in this application. I plan on taking the cover and uprights to my dad's shop this weekend (home for thanksgiving) and further bracing and prepping them to accept the diff mounts.

I did some more measuring and pondering in the garage tonight. Leaning more toward the explorer cover at this point, after measuring the diff and the car. Looks like i'm going to end up blowing a couple holes in the uprights, and using these style bushings - different size probably as the bolts going into the cover are 14mm. However, I might need to beef up the uprights, or build some from 1/4" plate. I would then add a hefty brace to ensure no lateral movement. The bottom of this picture would be where the diff would mount, putting the upright in the middle, and having a bolt captivate the assembly from the back side. Mounting in this fashion will make the centerline of the axle roughly 5" in front of the upright. This will be OK, because the R200 axle centerline is roughly 4" in front of the upright, and there is a rearward facing angle to the axle - if you follow that. Meaning the axle centerline of the diff is to the rear of the axle centerline at the hub. I will also be mounting the diff about 2" (guess) higher, to accommodate for my car being lowered. These bushings are $23/pair on suspension.com, making them quite affordable. Here are the front ones i'm going to buy, unless suspension.com has them - which they might - as this diff was used in several applications. http://cgi.ebay.com/...atchlink:top:en

You got that right! I signed up for some dyno time - sometime in the near future, TBA, so we'll see what it REALLY makes. Better car/ driver.... psh Start Here for nitrous info: http://ls1tech.com/forums/nitrous-oxide/1242567-spark-plug-info-jetting-faqs-all-nitrous-info-read-me.html

#fullcustom

I think that the timeslip list should be updated by CAR, not by RUN. What I'm saying is: if a car goes 10.9, 10.8, 10.7, 10.5 ONLY put the 10.5 run on the list. Its convoluted, and really doesnt give an accurate representation of whats out there currently.

Why not just look up the specs for the booster / master in the car that the brakes came off of?? That would be a GREAT place to start.

I don't doubt that its quality, as ARH makes lots of OEM performance exhaust, and the time frame was also nice. However, that is still a ton of money.

Soooo, what happened to the site?

Good grief - and people say MY car is a go-kart. Yours is like 800# lighter! which makes the numbers add up now. Maybe I'll put mine on a diet this winter..... if only i knew where to trim the fat.

Killin it Keith! Whats the car weigh? Glad to see I'm not the only one who came up short of 10's this year! haha

Yeah, I've looked into it, and it can and has been done quite easily. The trak-lok's have gained a lot of respect from me recently however - I have two friends with cobras that make over 800 hp to the tires, and they have held up to every bit of abuse they've given them, even on slicks. I'm quite excited to actually get this project rolling, but my student loans just came due (YAY) so most of my free money is tied up at the moment. I'll kinda be in limbo between selling parts and buying parts over the winter. The Q45 diffs have the same size input stubs as an R230, which are larger than the Longnose R200. I HIGHLY doubt you'll have any trouble with those until you start making big power.

At this rate, you'll need 600whp by your next post LOL This might be a site to check out: http://www.golenengineservice.com/engines/ls-engines/ls-short-block/rhs-short-block-454ci

Its the drivers side stub that always broke on my car. I hope your setup will withstand what you can throw at it, but I'm just done with the nissan diffs. To put a longnose lsd in the car would cost as much as this whole upgrade (hopefully), and you're still left with like 3 ratio choices, and limited availability. It just makes sense for me, because not only will it eliminate the diff, but also the stub axles, as I'll be going to a q45/z32 style strut assy (T3).

Well I picked up a complete 04 cobra IRS with 55K on it last night for $700. Planning on parting everything that I don't need out, and having a reasonably priced pumpkin. Holy hell these 31 spline axles are HUGE. Not a huge update, but its a step.

Summary?

what was the 60'?.. the full time

I know they've come a long way since they first started doing it. The only failures I can think of recently were due to settling caused by fire ringing for ridiculous boost. (3000hp)

Glad to hear. What brand TC did you go with? What STR?

That should make for a clean install. How much did the radiator and fans run you?

You must need another cup of coffee, Keith! Those are the ultralights like mine. They have a silver face with orange needles.

First thing to narrow down is if the vibration is purely speed related, or if its RPM based as well. Throw the car on stands, load th suspension, and run it. Whatever is causing your vibe should show itself. For the guy with the TTT stuff - Check your pinion angle, and the working angles of the driveshaft. If you don't know what that is, google it! Important stuff to know for any driveline project. Another thing, is it coming fromt he steering wheel area, or do you feel it more in the seat? Could be something as simple as a weight fell off your wheel, or driveshaft. You might have eaten a U-joint in a half shaft, or in the driveshaft. OR your pinion angle might not be happy. at least diff is in a fixed position in these cars... makes it a little easier. I hate vibrations.