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joeinca, Does your car have speakers right under the seat more towards the front? I wondering if your the same person Jon and I met. BTW I emailed you last week asking what area where you in Antioch. Anyway good idea and nice to see Dan and the Stockton guy's willing to come down this way.

Here's the engine (88-94) Big Chris talking about. Sorry my motor is dirty. As you can see the engine bay is filled. The manifold is only 2 - 3" away for the strut tower wall. Close fit if it fits. Here's my car - it's old but it still looks decent.

I called direct engineering the other day and his unit doesn't do datalogging. The serial port is for the LCD display (Jaycar). He still has to make the unit before selling them. Still a good price.

Does anyone know the thread size of the 280zxt 02 sensor. Is it 1.5 x 18mm Thread? Thanks in Advance,

I did the same thing SleeperZ did except more ghetto.... I cut the ends of both the ZX and the 240Z of the crossmember. Well... not I but Jon (jumbo240z) welded the 240Z ends to the zx crossmember then he reinforeced it with thick sheet metal on top and bottom were he weld it. Actually now it's even stronger then stock.

Lone, I have a turbocharge Z; if I had a choice I go with the 3.54. I wouldn't want to waste the torque the turbo gives with the short revs.

None of the sensors are included like in most kits. I think the RPM is included and the other tap connectors for existing sensors (not 02). He mentioned you can get it anywhere you want as long as it's the NTK brand with 5 wires. Also you don't have to get it calibrated one, you can just by the O2 sensor for $125 or buy it from somewhere else. The popular expensive wideband meters has built in self calibration for the O2 sensor. He told me the importance of it being calibrated when your trying to fine tune it. He mention for basic tuning it's not needed. If you buy the O2 sensor from him then you tell him the length of the wires you want because once you get, it's plug and play. No wiring, just plug into the cigarette lighter, screw in the o2 sensor, plug the harness into the 02 harness then your done. I spent at least an hour with him on the phone, not because I was asking question. He want to make sure I understand what he was talking about. After talking to him I had a more understanding of wideband meters. BTW Shipping is included in the price.

Mann... that sounds like a lot of fun. I still have a long way with my Z before I can safely road race. I hope my car responds like yours at the track.

BLKMGK, That was a good find. I called up the guy and found out what a good tools this is. For $739 you get A complete engine tuning meter, includes TWO channels of WideBand AFR measurement, both datalogged & independently EBP-corrected, -PLUS- the full slate of realtime datalogged engine combustion vitals: EGTs(2-8 K-types), MAP, RPM, TPS, actual/true IGN advance, INJ pulsewidth/%dutycycle. Also you can get the wideband o2 sensor for your car so you don't have to change bungs. It also has connector to connect the narrow band O2 connection from your computer. It also uses the Parallel port for faster reading to the laptop.

I have an early 750IL and I don't think it will fit or it will be really close. It's because of the intake manifold sticks out to far. It doesn't look like the engine Boobala pictured, that's a newer 750IL engine. I don't think it's going to fit because it fills up my engine bay. I can't reach the spark plugs by hand. They probably swap the plugs from the bottom of the car. If you get it in then you'll have fun with it. I've taken my 750IL(E32) to 150mph and walked a 93 vette going over 100mph. The compression is only 8:5:1 so you can put a turbo on them. Dinan made a twin turbo system for it. The older Jag v12's are junk and power is very weak in stock form.

The one from http://interstice.com/~garfield/ are inexpensive. Good find. Which one you would recommend.

Good idea Lockjaw. I'll give them a call. Cutting the distributor was going to be my last choice.

Thanks Ron. My friend who installed the SDS for me mentioned it. He said you can't just cap it. If your playing hard and the rod is bouncing, it will eventually bind with something and can cause some serious engine damage. I would do just it for safety and I know you put some serious money into that motor. I think I still have your pictures where you put the crank sensor and it shows the cover.

Looks like you have to learn how to drive your turbo setup. It's going to be different then your V8 setup. You'll have fun in the process

Thanks for looking... I'm trying to find out how you made the distributor cover when you removed the distributor. I currently left the distributor on because without it the oil shaft goes up and down. If you just put a cover that could be dangerous because you don't want no play on that shaft. Things can break when theres play. Thanks in Advance,

It's home brew from someone who knows the Tech at JWT. I don't want to mention his name because I don't want that person to get in trouble. Sorry about that.

I was going to say I'm suprise he didn't pull you over. Nice Kill, I bet you made his day.

Hey I know that guy The MSA Front Spoiler Part # is 50-1401.

Hi Doug, Since your into looking into the 300ZXT setup, I have one for sale. I just switched to the SDS system and was running for the first time Sunday. Mine is modified so you can use the 280ZXT harness with no modifications to the harness. You still have to switch the #5 & 2 injector, I didn't have to on my car. Also the wire that powers up the fuel pump reroute the wire directly from the battery - switched. Includes Modified computer, MAF and harness with ground wire for MAF. Price is $300 shipped. If you decided to go back to the 280ZXT computer then rehookup the one wire for the fuel pump you rerouted to the battery, put back the afm and un ground the one wire, switch the #5 and #2 back and your done. I'm going to post it in buy /sell section if your not interested.

FYI: I called direct engineering to find out what brand they are using and it's the same one as the DIY kits as the one 980Mak is talking about. The only difference is they put it together for you. $245 without the LCD; + $85 for LCD.

My friend has a Walbro 190. Running on a L28 NA, p90, starion IC, stock turbo and 370CC injectors. Ran 13.4 @ 106 with 12psi of boost. Here's some specs on the Walbro pumps... From http://www.autoperformanceengineering.com/html/fuelpump.html#overview Walbro has been making OEM pumps and aftermarket pumps for many years. A few years ago, they added in-tank high pressure pumps for fuel injected vehicles to their aftermarket line. Their two most popular aftermarket in-tank high performance pumps are their 190 ltr/hr pump and their 255 ltr/hr pump. Their first FI pump was a 190 ltr/hr pump. It was created for the Mustang. It also fit in the Turbo Regals quite well. They recently created a modified version of the 190 ltr/hr pump so it can fit in many other pump hanger brackets (e.g. Probe, Miata, etc.). With a 12 volt power source, these pumps flow 190 ltr/hr at 0 psi, 155 ltr/hr at 40 psi. Later, they created a 255 ltr/hr pump This pump has the same fittings as the original 190 ltr/hr pump. They later created another 255 ltr/hr pump to match the fittings of the Probe pump. Later, they discovered if the output fittings of the Probe pump were turned 180 degrees, that the pump would fit some other applications (RX-7, 1st-Gen DSM), hence a third 255 ltr/hr pump was born. These pumps flow 255 ltr/hr at 40 psi, and 285 ltr/hr at 0 psi. Then, they put a different pressure-relief spring in a standard 255 ltr/hr pump. That raised the output of the pump above 50 psi of fuel pressure. Walbro builds all three versions of the original 255 ltr/hr pump in "high pressure" versions. Below is a table that compares the average flows of several pumps with a 12 volt source.

Shane, If you have a big enough return line you'll be ok. I put a single big pump on my stock 240Z fuel lines and even with the fuel pressure set at the lowest setting I couldn't get less then 80psi. Changed my lines and now I can go as low as 15-20psi at the lowest setting.

Actually the car runs a little richer after the BOV releases the air (if it's not rerouted back to the intake pipes). Scotty I would get NGK's instead ACD. I'm sure you get a discount from your g-friend's dad

Happy Birthday Davy! BTW Did you know Sanderson headers are located in South San Francisco. I bought some u-bends from them awhile back.

I believe the largest you can put on a T04B housing is a 60 trim but call www.majesticturbo.com and they will have the answer.