Phyxius

Okay guys, I've decided to send these to a laser cutter for the remainder of the clutches. It would be cost ineffective to do them on the mill as fast as the tools break. They will be made of 440C Stainless which I've found is superior in wear resistance to what I made mine of. The material costs a little more, but it should be offset by not having to pay for tools. I think I will post in the group buy section to see if anyone else would like some. The more that are ordered, the lower the cost will be. It will take 5-6 weeks for the laser cutter to do it. What do you guys think of paying half now and half upon shipment? EDIT: I meant to say that they will be in the neighborhood of $16-$19 per.

I meant to mention that I have the matching CV shafts that have already been altered to use the MM adapters.

I really hate to, especially after all the work that I put into it, but I need to sell this thing. A link to the add: http://classifieds.hybridz.org/showproduct.php?product=2722 It should be at least twice as resistant if not more to shearing the tabs off as the stock units. If it doesn't sell soon, I'll be putting it on ebay.

Turbo swaps aren't that hard if you have any mechanical knowledge. The most important thing is to be thorough, as I'm sure you know from working on the Apache. Keep in mind I'm speaking from the turbo mindset as that is all I've ever had. I'm not sure what the NA guys would tell you. The best place to start is upgrading the fuel system, IMHO. In itself, it won't net you much gain, but it will build the base for future mods. I'd recommend a better fuel pump, injectors, fuel rail, regulator, and an aftermarket ECU to begin with. If you shop around and look for good deals, you can get all of it for less than $500-600. Once that is done, you shouldn't have to touch the fuel system for a long time(as it should be able to support at least 400hp... more if you picked big injectors and fuel pump). Of course you can upgrade the fuel system as it becomes necessary, but you run more of a risk of running lean doing that. So if you decided to do that, definitely get some sort of wideband O2 meter.

First off, welcome to the site and to the Z ownership world. I'm sure you will find it most informative. I sure do. Second, before asking general questions like this, use the search function on the menu bar. A lot of the old timers get tired of answering the same questions over and over. It takes a little practice to figure out the right keywords, but its worth it... it is hard to find a question that hasn't been asked already. Since you are new, I'll go ahead and get you started. This site has a lot of general upgrade info... also notice the 'new to z' section near the bottom and the web links over to the side: http://www.atlanticz.ca/index.php?option=com_wrapper&Itemid=69 Here are some general technical specs: http://www.geocities.com/~z-car/specs/ That should give you enough to chew on for quite a while.

I just had mine shortened by a local machine shop. I can't remember how much I had it shortened, but I think it is in an old thread somewhere. I do know I should have had it shortened another 1/4" - 1/2" it's pretty tight in there.

My sx tranny whines a little in the higher gears, but I wouldn't call it a scream. I've never really had a problem shifting it either. Maybe for some reason your clutch isn't fully disengaging? Did you run the trans through all the gears when it was out of the car?

yep, I have the same setup, and you have to have a tach converter. I forget which one it is... I'll try to look tomorrow and see which I have.

Measured the one I took out when I did my flywheel swap... right at 225mm. The disk isn't in horrible condition...wear wise: you can still see a small part of the Valeo label on the friction surface. It had been slipping pretty bad (which is why I did the swap) and the pp and flywheel both have heat marks on them. Anyway... the point is, if you pay for shipping i'll let you have it for next to nothing.

I can measure one when I get home if no one has answered by then.

The story with that is that you have to offset bush the rod ends because the corvair pin is smaller and the compression height is too large. Some have suggested that the pin is too small for any serious performance motor.

measuring the center to center length should tell you what kind of rod you bought. A L24 rod should be 133mm center to center while a L28 rod will be 130.2 In order to measure center to center, measure from the very bottom of the small end bore to the very top of the big end bore and add 37. The 37 is the sum of the radii of the bores.

the problem...at least the way I see it... is that there aren't counterweights for every rod journal... there are a couple missing. I'm not really sure why they decided to do this.

right... but hp is not the goal. I'm pretty much purely bench racing here. There is a problem with the harmonics of the L series cranks at high RPMs... I'm just trying to see if we could come up with a solution to that problem using tools and parts readily available. The fact that it may not be worth the effort or useful at all is beside the point.

The goal was to be able to reduce the harmonics of the crank so that it could spin faster reliably... not necessarily to increase HP

that was before my time but the question still stands... is it possible to weld or bolt on weights to a crank not made for it? And if so, which would be the better option?

I'm just wondering if there is something we can do to improve the harmonics of the stock L series cranks. If it is as simple as bolting or welding some more metal on, I may try it.

right now, it is looking like they are gonna be near 20$ per disc.

if you are going the same route as the rest of us, you'd need 4 friction disks if your other 2 are still okay or 6 if they have broken tabs.

Is it possible to add full counterweights to a non-fully counterweighted crank?

all z31 clsd's only have 2 per my understanding...

if the full tab isn't there, chances are they are spinning around and that would cause it not to lock up. Is there any scoring on the part that the tabs fit into? If there is, it has definitely been spinning. EDIT: This is a picture of mine when I took them out. Completely useless:

sometimes a bad ground will do that same thing...

are you shearing off the clutch tabs or what?

the info on the engine builder utility must be wrong: it said they have a 21mm pin. I'm thinking of using those rods coupled with a piston with a smaller pin height (ie: rb26 or something similar.) with a standard L28 crank and block. If they are as sturdy as you say, a decent polishing job and shot peening should make them indestructible. Thanks for the info!