motomanmike

I second buying the DIY trigger wheel for the stock CAS, the factory nissan one is no bueno

Have DIY make sure they have the BIP373 installed on the board for firing a coil. (IIRC the 3.57 MS2 doesn't come with this it is considered a "mod"). Also, if it were me, I'd have them mod the board for electronic boost control and install the going low circuit for flat shift so you can wire a clutch switch into MS. I bought a 3.57 originally, then gravitated to a 3.0 I built so I could have more "usable" features. If they mod the board, and tell you what pins they terminated those signal wires to you have everything else covered it seems.

Are you still pondering using a stock ems?

Ah just drive it Lee. You'll never feel you got what it was worth if you sold it. Whatever you do, don't buy an old Jag like you were hinting last time we chatted.

DIYautotune also released a few new PNP ecu's for the 2JZ. If you have all of the toyota harness it should be fairly simple wiring if you went that route. "MegaSquirtPNP Pro is here! Our latest release is based on the MS3-Pro and fits the '93-98 Toyota Supra Turbo. Other MegaSquirt PNP models include:" http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/megasquirtpnp-pro-jz9298-for-the-9398-toyota-supra-manual-trans-p-591.html

You may have to port the wastegate hole slightly, also some guys cut a small groove up to it as well. I've had this happen working with some miatas and the ever popular china turbo upgrades. Wire it open like others have said and see what it does.

You'll get it, keep at it.

Good luck. It might be a good investment for you to buy the registered version of tunerstudio so you can take advantage of the realtime VE tuning. It really helps you get things in the ballpark. No tune from someone else is going to make your car run perfect. MS is funny like that. I've got a few ecu's laying around. If I were to swap one in my car and flash the same tune its been running on for the past year, it wouldn't be right. It would be kind of close but wouldn't run like it does currently. Odd, its just how it is.

Just first off, your KPA ranges on your map only go to 100 which is full throttle on an NA car. Anything over 100kpa is boost and your car doesn't have that area of the map to work with so be careful. Go into the FAQ's and find a map to copy the ranges from. Cygnus has some really good maps in the FAQ, his spark map works great. Also, MS doesn't auto adjust its fueling unless you program it to do so then it only will do it to the extent of your VE table and your AFR target table. If the GEGO correction doesn't have enough authority to pull it into what target AFR your AFR map is becasue the VE is that far off it can only supplement the fueling not get it exact. Tune the car with all auto enrichments off, then use them to fine tune areas of throttle lift or depression.

I bet you've got plenty of practice replacing them with those tires you run on the back of that thing!

This set I bought and it was already beaten to death with a hammer. Trying to salvage a spindle pin the puller is the way to go. One day i'll save a spindle pin for the Datsun world I promise.

What an awesome find! Glad to see another rare car saved.

I've always been leery of a press on anything after ruining a few half shafts. The press always wins but are necessary sometimes for certain things. A press to me is kind of like a boat. Its always best when its someone other than myself that owns it . I imagine a hand pump press would work but this is something most people can do fairly cheap and won't take up space in my teeny garage. It doesn't take a monster compressor to run an air hammer it just might take you a little longer letting it cycle if it has a small tank. Most small compressors with any kind of tank people typically would have in their garage would run an air hammer in short bursts. The air hammer itself is very inexpensive. One thing to check if you start and initially the pin does not move, look in the center where the locking pin was and make sure the locking pin didn't burr the spindle pin there in that hole. Sometime its best to run a die inside that hole where the locking pin was and clean it nice and smooth before attempting to dislodge the spindle pin itself. Good luck!!!

I laughed pretty hard when I opened the box they were shipped in. I've seen a lot of people struggle with them and post about how to get them out so I figured i'd show it. Some are harder than others. I've had to cut them off flush before with the strut tube before hammering with the air hammer but they all still eventually came out without damaging the strut tube.

Surely this method always renders the pin unusable however i've done 4 sets of strut tubes so far and each time this is how i've removed them. Some require a little cleaning of the bore before reassembly with new pins. I simply use a die or small tear of sandpaper on a slotted arbor and chase the inside of the hole to deburr it. Some cars had sat longer than others but this particular set was a stock pin on a 73 strut tube so its been in there awhile. In addition, notice the arm is missing. The person I got these tubes from got sick of fighting the spindle pin and cut the knuckles of the suspension arm clean off before shipping them to me. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BXvHQGbcqlk&feature=youtu.be Hope this will help someone out.