motomanmike

Zcar does not have the technical knowledge this site obtains and strives for everyday. I'm still curious what your "technical" issue with your S30 is. This site is a very informative group of Datsun fanatics who strive for nothing but the best when it comes to knowledge for modified Datsun Z cars. It takes awhile to learn the ropes of this forum. Do yourself a favor as you are new and READ THE RULES!!! These guys do no tolerate what you are posting. Just trying to help you out. Good luck to you.

Taylor76 Not sure if you ever resolved your spark issue. You say you see it was fried what makes you think that and what have you seen? When DIY did the mod on my 3.57 board i'm pretty they had the spark output come through JS10 not D14 (preferred). Something to look at. Might just be a simple ignition setting in tunerstudio causing your issue.

Don't forget the pilot bushing!!

I guess the real question you need to find an answer too is do you really feel like doing work or walking away. I was replying in a sense that it can be fixed, probably a lot easier to fix than you might see currently. You need to figure out how sentimental this car is though because with 8k (as you know) you can buy a really nice roller and transfer the better quality upgrades to it. I'd try to save it if I could. Just the way my brain functions even if it isn't as cost effective. This is probably the same disease that causes my hoarding of parts LOL. Good luck. Tube chassis would be sweet but its all in what you want. I'd feel pretty invincible in a tube chassis Z though, might end up wrecking more with that kind of self assurance. I did just watch Nitro Circus.

I 'd pull the hood, fenders on both sides and the front valance etc off so you are just looking at the structure. It might have held together better than you think. You'll never know until you get it apart though. Do the doors shut properly? Has any of the glass look as if its shifted in its seals?

Wonder where this is going?

If its possible it probably did with the luck i've had. I was using a 10 watt 6 ohm resistor on each 12v feed wire to the injector. Port check doesn't recognize firmware. Rings back 2 valid ports found and 'S' Tried to reflash the firmware and the ecu will not take it. The rs232 mentioned might be the culprit who knows.

LOL I wish it were that easy. No I live out in the sticks. Not really too much interference physically around me. It would connect before. Like I said it was online, ran for about 30 seconds and tunerstudio went offline and won't connect now in the car or on the stim. I'm going to try downloading megatune tonight and see if it recognizes the ecu. We shall see.

It is frustrating but i'm to the point with this MS swap that it is what it is, I can't waste energy getting upset about it anymore. I don't really think its a critical problem with the board. I'm not by any means knowledgeable in circuit boards, that's why I went with the preassembled pcb. The car starts and runs, but will not no matter what connect to tunerstudio to tune it. I tried another laptop too just to be certain my DB9 port didn't fail on the laptop but still won't connect. Strange one. Matt at DIY has been VERY helpful throughout all my woes with this build and I'm confident he will point me in the right direction. I have the car back at my house now so i'm not pressed for time to get it anywhere. We will see what happens. I'll keep you posted. Thanks for looking Billy, how are you making out with your set up?

Well, back to the drawing board. I decided to install resistors on the power feed and try running the MS with the PWM current limit at 100. Set opening time to 1.0 and PWM time threshold to 25.4. Well, the car fires right up, will idle fine but it will NOT connect to tunerstudio at all. I pulled the ECU out of the car and tried it on a stim and it still will not connect to tunerstudio. Before starting it, it came right online. I started it. The car ran for maybe 30 seconds and then the controller went offline and won't come back. I've emailed Matt to see if I can send it to be fixed. I don't know how to work on this pcb it was a preassembled unit initially. I will not be trying this again. I will remove the resistors and go back to using PWM settings I had previous to this attempt. I'll find another way to get rid of noise but it won't be with injector resistors. Ah well. Its too freaking cold to do much outside anyhow but i was hopeful this would have helped and instead it took me two steps backwards. Just my luck.

Been there with a fuel filled engine when an injector driver burnt up. I'm just thinking of ways to reduce the EMI. Maybe put a separate relay for the injector 12v and the coil 12v. Two more relays but if it solves my problem I could care less. I'm not picky about how it looks under the hood.Many don't know half the time what they are looking so if the valve cover is shiny its got to be fast. LOL I'm going to spend my saturday this weekend wiring and testing. Hopefully a full 8 hours in the shop i can resolve it.

Yeah, mine starts runs and idles great. AFR's are in the 13.5-14 range at a nice steady idle. Instead of an IAC right now when its cold I just pop the vacuum line for the fuel pressure regulator until she warms up LOL. Then I get the bump bump misfire. Very feint, but deep down looking at the logs I know what it is. Its a spike or sag in voltage caused by noise.The car is jittery, very jittery. The tune isn't all that rough now either i've spent alot of time trying to dial in decent values and have a good base. Yes it has been a fun journey. I can't complain because at least knowing what gremlin i'm chasing and that is a relief to me. I fought the stock set up initially trying to get this swap running with the stock harness/ecu and the most I could do was get it to start and idle. I replaced all sorts of connectors, sensor, wires etc trying to get the stock setup to be driveable with no luck. It turned out the ECU was bad i just went MS. Its been a HUGE learning curve. Now that i've gotten it this far I would do it all over again but i've read numerous stories from all sorts of installs on other applications having noise issues with MS. It just is a part of going with the MS setup. Like I said above though this car rips now. I'm amazed that it pulls as hard as it does under boost. I will be much happier when I get this noise issue figured out because it really isn't driveable long term. Sure it was fun for a Saturday. The excitement of having my turbo swap Z on the road and running after 8 months of work. But now i need that refined feeling when I drive it to call it complete because its rough feeling at the moment. Jittery is the best description I can give. I had 4 resets in a 12 minute data log the other night, I can see them happening too, the little red light in the pcb is lighting every time it jitters. It doesn't always throw a reset in the datalog but I know its happening. I moved a lot of wiring last nite. Re routed my injector harness. Eliminated any potential 40 year old car wiring from the equation and tried the MS power, switched power and grounds right off the battery but i'm still getting resets. I'm powering my 12 feed for my injectors off the relay board 12v feeds. Going to try moving them to another power source. Also going to try another coil and possibly some other spark plug wires. I'm running taylors and they run right over the valve cover almost. I just wish there was an easy way to isolate where it was coming from.

Its all EMI somewhere. Im chasing noise. I'm not going to post too much speculation. Just have to find it and fix it. I've eliminated the basics from the equation such as grounds. All sensor returns and signals are on the relay board and I've tried running the relay board power, switched and grounds all directly off the battery. Its a noisy coil, fuel pump, or low z injector noise I believe. Fun fun. If that car pulls that hard with a noisy MS i can't imagine what its going to do when its right so i'm hopeful. I'll let you guys know what I figure out.

Really glad you guys are ok. Sad to see another Z taken out.

Sent you a PM

MAP correction was playing some role in the off readings, well the blending of MAP and TPS, i've favored TPS 95% now and it made a huge difference in the AFR stability. I've gotten everything wired up in the passenger compartment and that made a huge difference. Zya thanks for letting me see that timing map. The car is overpowering a brand new stock turbo clutch now so I'd say we have progress

Well I'm now in the market for an entire turbo rear end. I appreciate the offer. I'm hoping to just find a parts car or something at this point.

Do the rear brakes release without any binding once they lock? Have you verified that with the car lifted up?

Good to know, I've replaced the headgasket twice on my L24. Not because of combustion chamber getting coolant in it or because of oil mixing with the gas but simply because it seeped out the edges of the gasket during warm up or cooldown. Typically it wouldn't do it while it was running. I'm sold Tony and appreciate the informative reply. I'm going to pick a tube up today to keep on hand.

Is there any chance you are feeding fluid to the front and rear in a different manner than before. Did you just change the master cylinder? Also, was it the correct master cylinder for your 280zx?

This is how I've got my hitachi alternator wired. Top of the T is the "sense" I have it jumped directly to the battery stud. Bottom of the T is the activation wire, I have a diode spliced inline and it gets power when the ignition is on.

Tony does the aluma seal help with the seepage people experience with head gaskets? I've always thought that stuff was bad to put in the coolant system typically masking a bigger problem but i'm very curious...

Well, I am using the regular P90 head and just did a valve adjustment before getting up and running. Valve lash is good. No ticking and I have very solid compression readings across all cylinders. The LC1 is not throwing any errors but like I said it is alot closer to the turbo than I am comfortable with so I plan on moving it lower in the exhaust stream as soon as I can get the pipe off to weld a new bung on. The tune is the key for sure. I have the EGO turned off but I turned it on with a very low authority to see if it would change the way the wideband acted just testing but it really doesn't. I feel my wideband though is still way too close to the turbo using the fitting on the MSA downpipe so i'm going to lower downstream this weekend hopefully. I have a really good understanding of VE tables, AFR target tables and how the EGO correction works but I do not have an understanding of how to get a good timing map. I've read and read but for the life of me can't wrap my head around it. I know the timing before TDC will increase as RPM and boost increase but the ranges and how to get a feel for how much are beyond me at this point.

The L24 240z had a dual points distributor when equipped with an automatic transmission. I'm not sure what the timing was set at but I know it was a different distributor. I'm still running the dual point on my L24 powered Z. I get better power out of it than I did with the pertronix so i switched back to the old school points distributor.

I busted out laughing when I saw the error Glitching out today. Seems to be working now. Keep at it guys we appreciate the hard work.