motomanmike

In search of the pinion flange that the driveshaft bolts to the rear with for the T-5 set up. Pretty sure any turbo car rear flange will work, fits R200 turbo rears. Thanks for any help

I too am having LC-1 issues causing crazy AFR readings. What down pipe are you using?

I also need to get a feel for how much I should even worry about the signal from the wideband. Right now I feel its critical because i'm just getting up and running but once the car is tuned ok how much will I really need the wideband?

I'm trying to fix my LC-1 signal. I can't really tune this thing right to eliminate the bucking because running the VE analyze to help fix the VE table its all over the place its that bad. The settings in error is saying its ---noise--- on the serial cable which from the way i'm interpreting as being the tuning cable. My LC-1 is extremely noisy. All my other signals look good from what i'm seeing. I do want to utilize the EGO correction but at the moment that would be impossible because it is really confused as to whats going on. I'm really also thinking about taking the MSA downpipe to a friend and weld a bung lower on the pipe and reposition the wideband in the exhaust itself.

I guess what I really need now is a CLEAN RUNNING CAR data log to compare if what I've done is producing a clean enough signal to go any further tuning. I've got a little bit of jitter on the o2 signal now but now where near as extreme as it was. My email is the same as my user name on here @yahoo I didn't want to type the whole thing in case a bot sniffs it out. I appreciate any help guys.

I pulled it all out tonight. I'm going to try a different set up with the controller in another location and not use the external gauge for now. I want to see if maybe the non shielded wiring to the gauge is causing some problems but its too darn cold to do much more tonight.

Well guys i've logged about 200 miles since i've gotten up and running and have hit a wall. I have 2 issues and have some questions I hope the seasoned guru's can help me with. The goods Stock L28ET 1982, using stock distributor. Stock low z injectors Megasquirt II V3.57 with MSII extra serial 321 Megasquirt relay board GM IAT sensor Using stock head temp for CLT LC-1 wideband O2 sensor. MSA downpipe into all 2.5 inch exhaust with magnaflow muffler Walbro fuel pump I got a basic tune that was ok to drive. Pulls hard in boost but my AFR's are all over the place!!! Never leaning out in boost though, always in the 12's or lower. The car bucks at cruising speed say 2500 rpm, the EGO has no clue what to do at all because of it, which i've totally turned off EGO, and totally stepped it up and it really doesn't change what its doing. In addition I'm getting an error. "Settings Configuration Error, TunerStudio is online Correct Settings and Power Cycle the controller. Reported Setting error Serial problem---noise---possible cable or computer hardware problem, you must correct this error then power cycle the controller" This happens every time I try to datalog anything now. All my relay board grounds for MS and my ground for my LC-1 is on the battery. I bought a Deka intimidator AGM with marine terminals so I have my main starter and block/chassis grounds on one set of terminals and the MS wiring on the threaded marine terminals. I've routed all the wiring as far away as possible for the LC1 from anything else I could. The only wire I can't really get out of the way from others is the signal wire to the MS relay board from the LC1 controller. You simply just can't space it very far away just due to its nature of design. i'm not saying there is a single thing wrong with it i'm just saying I have done my due diligence trying to eliminate my issue. I've unplugged the alternator also just trying to troubleshoot. All my other readings are pretty decent, a few ripples here and there but no where near as bad as my AFR's they look more like a heart monitor than an AFR reading. However unlike a heart monitor i'm searching for a much flatter line LOL Things I've done. I have reprogrammed the LC-1 to its lowest lag I think it was 1/3 a second. Free air calibrated it out of the exhaust twice. I also read a thread that people put a capacitor on the positive feed wire to the LC-1 controller so I bought one at radioshack, the 4200uf i think like 35v and installed. I've also played with noise filtering and lambda delay or % in tunerstudio up to the 90 range and it still is fluttering. None of this corrected the issue. Sorry for the long winded post but I wanted to be as descriptive as I could of what i've done. The option for posting the topic isn't allowing me to go to advanced and post the datalog, not sure if its still where they are tweaking the site or what. I can PM it to anyone willing to help.

Sounds good. I love seeing more Datsun Z's. I've logged about 200 miles so far. Pulls hard but bucks alot when just trying to drive normal out of boost. I haven't quite pinpointed where to start tweaking on that one. Very lurchy starting off, bucks on the highway at pretty much constant rpm and throttle. Brand new decent turbo clutch and flywheel slips under about 4-5 lbs of boost so its putting it down when I want it to. Just can't get it smooth driving yet.

Boost rippage. I've driven it in its bliss for the past two days. I'm like a kid with an early Christmas present weeeeeeeeeeeeeeee LOL. Now i've just got to fine tune. Its running really rich in the mid 10 afr's under boost and I know there is more power there. I'm trying to figure out what the best way to calculate my 16x16 VE table ranges, kpa and rpm. I won't ever rev past 5600 or so, i'll probably set the ending bucket to 6k and stock boost so around 155 max kpa then retune the ve table. I've got some lurching going on cruising, i've disable ego correction and backed down the map and tps correction percentages. I've made a few runs on the data log but i'm pretty sure its in the timing. I've maybe had 2 hours tuning between driving and looking at logs. I just did drive it for real with a halfway driveable tune last night and today got it to where it will sink you back in the seat nice through the gears. I'm happy for sure. The oil still looks very clean, doesn't smell of gas, nice and brown. The car doesn't smoke at all, has good oil pressure and compression. Its close. I can see my next upgrades will be some much better brakes!!! Once I get the ranges in the VE table and its tuned well i'll post my map up on the faq. The one I posted before will get it fired up but I had the wue ending values wrong and it wasn't turning off and a few other bits of oversight I had to fix before I could drive it. Thanks for asking. I'd like to see that 260 it looks nice in the picture.

Cool idea. We have one of these cars in the work fleet. Its a torquey little bugger. I'd like to see it run. It certainly would be unique.

Thats really cool. I'm glad you got it half way narrowed down. I would dare say you'd be ok mounting it back it really sounds as if the issue was in the coil wiring. Two of us on the same day back running today. I had a fuel issue I got straight today and FINALLY got to drive my car. It still has a very rough tune but man it runs and pulls in boost with low AFR's so i'll gradually lean it out. Good luck with the rest of the project.

We got a bingo on the regulator!! Nice. Sounds like it should now. Thanks again everyone.

I set it to 100 on the ending value of the curve last night and let her warm up and the WUE went off. THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR THE CLARIFICATION!!!!! Now I can get into the EGO correction values. Any progress Jacob?

I had suspected this and ordered one today, it will be here at 4:00pm. I'll put it on tonight and see what it does. I hooked everything back up the way it does with the return line off the rail still in the dump can, used a hand vac tool on the regulator and it didn't change the flow at all coming out of the return so thats when I decided to get one and try it. Here's a video for giggles. This thing sounds TERRIBLE. It started out before I hit record on the video with a nice low grrrrr normal sound. Then slowly into what it sounded like here. I should have left the camera on record another 40 seconds or so because it primed and got the nice low tone grrrr right after I shut it down. Hopefully I haven't ruined the pump but we shall see.

I will this week sometime. Just trying to get some ideas. I tested it before buttoning up everything and removed the gauge to save fittings. I need to install one permanent, maybe just buy a nice aeromotive regulator and mount the gauge on it. I hate to throw more money at it but if its what it takes i've committed this much time and effort it would be worth it. Its sooooo close to being able to tune it but I just won't even try driving it until I know the fuel situation is right. I've seen way to many friends let boost eat motors. Thanks for the thoughts guys, I'll see what I can figure out this week.

Wouldn't I see a fuel leak at that pressure though If I had an air leak? Order of business for me I guess is to install the gauge I had on initially inline and see whats going on with it. I took it out just to have less fittings inline. Any way to test the regulators flow? Can I just blow air out of the compressor through there or will that just ruin it?

It will free flow fuel out the front before the rail if I pull the line off, and boy is that a rush I always thought a bad regulator on the rail would leak, can they stick shut? I can hear the regulator hissing once the pump gets its prime though.

Nigel I lowered the pump well below the tank and feed line. Would there be an reason that once the pump got its prime that it should slowly loose it even with constant power? I did some testing. I pulled the return off the rail, made sure it was free flowing down the body of the car. Put a temporary hose off the return of the rail and ran it to a dump can. I then got the pump to prime totally, nice low tone grrrr. It would get a slow trickle out of the return, but same result the pump would slowly start to whine, turning higher in pitch as it went on. I'm sure without resistance it will pump fuel fine but it seems its just weak like it just can't keep up. I'm using the stock fuel pressure regulator. I guess from all that description my real question is with the pump constantly on, and not much blow by past the regulator, would there be any reason that it should lose its prime other than being a bad pump? I've got 1/2 ANl ine feeding the pump (now higher than the pump itself then from the pump a run of 1/2 line up to a reducer at the front frame support to 5/16 line, a filter from a pathfinder V6, then 5/16 from it to match the rail size. I'm using the original 240Z feedline for a return, reading your page you did for quite sometime until a nice pinhole sprung up. Alot of posts i've read many others had success with this but mine just won't keep solid pressure. Voltages are good at the pump, i'm running it with the relay board from MS, I hooked a jumper ground and postive directly from a the battery just to test that possibility with no change. Is it possible to suck air but not leak fuel out of one of the AN fittings or elbows?

Sounds like a good plan to start. Just curious, have you tried starting the car jumping the starter solenoid to get it to crank to rule out totally that roll back of the key under load? I know you said you check for resets with the key switch wire off the starter and didn't experience a reset but the key may act funny with the 3-7 amps a solenoid will draw from the switch wire. Just another easy to try thought.

Did the car start ok before you wired up the tach and coil the way it is now?

So your ending value on the WUE taper at say 160degrees should be 100% (using tunerstudio)? Not trying to hijack jacobs thread either but it might help him understand too. If that is the case will the WUE green icon go away once its past that temperature? Mine never goes off even at operating temperature. But i've had values lower than 100 in the last bucket, like 32 currently. After reading this yes, the base maps in tunerstudio examples all end with a value of 100. Hmm Jacob, I had a thought too. Have you tried pulling the injector bank fuses from the relay board and lowering the rpm in tunerstudio lower than cranking to see if you get a reset? How about unhooking the coil in the same fashion and see if you experience a reset. Might give you some insight on whether its the injector or spark part of the system thats causing you issues. Do you have a stim?

Your pulsewidths and dwell would change quite drastically from cranking to run, maybe getting some feedback during that transition with the coil? One way you could narrow it down is to pull the fuses for the injectors, crank and see if you get resets. Install the fuses back and pull the coil trigger wire and crank and see if you notice any changes. Do you have a stim?

It does seem very much like it is an air pocket stuck in there. I wouldn't think having to pull fuel 1-2" in height would be that hard for it but I'm guessing it can be an issue, i'll unbolt it from its mount and lower it down unmounted just to see what happens and go from there. Nice set up Nigel that car is spotless underneath. Man it would be nice if its that easy.

Well, I finally got my car started on MSII E however I'm getting back to some basics I guess. My fuel pump is either toast or its not priming right. I have a 240z with a 76 280 tank, walbro pump. Here is how it is plumbed for the feed. At first I didn't have an issue, well I don't think I did. I'm not sure and have not played with lowering it down below the feed line but i'd like to keep it shielded which is why I mounted it where it is. The pump currently whines really bad and its not a constant whine, its up and down almost like a siren and will not pull fuel. I even dumped another 5 gallons from a dump can in the fuel tank thinking it was just out of gas with no change in the way it sounds. Here is what I have, 1/2 AN line feeding, 100 micron filter, to the pump, then 1/2 AN line up to the rail. Should I eliminate the 90's? The pump came with two small barbs I can't really see why the 90's would starve it? Are any of you running a similar set up that might have some insight? I can't tune this thing right until I figure out whats up with the fuel feed at the moment. The old yellow tube is on the old return line so it didn't get plugged with gunk.

And the WUE is where I"m struggling now. No matter what I do I can't get my car to run with the WUE ending value at 0 I had my car running pretty good, then realized I had a bad thermostat and it wasn't really getting over 140 degrees. Now that I have it warming up right i'm trying to taper off the WUE and It just does not like it AT ALL!!! 0 WUE = not running for me. How are you making out with your setup now?? When you pump your pedal you are actually telling MS not to inject any fuel so i'd dare say you need to lower your WUE values to lean it out some.