steve260z

I'm using the Stage 2 Schneider Cam (.480/.480, 274/274) Compression is 10.0. I'm certainly committed to using the SUs and not looking to Triples. ss

Are you installing the longer '75-78 valves? ss

The "How to rebuild your Nissan/Datsun" book uses Locktite.

You can have mine for free, if you want it. I have a crate for shipping. steve

Building my 3.1L and plan on using my SU Carbs. I've read a number of posts and various opinions but let me pose this question and someone more knowledgeable than me will hopefully enlighten me! Q: These SU carbs were originally designed for a 2.4L.(Which doesn't necessarily mean they won't work well on a larger motor) A 3.1L is obviously 30% or so larger. I do have SM needles which I plan on using/trying. Can the SU deliver the additional volume of air for the increased displacement? Does the SU have that much "headroom" so to speak? The SM will certainly deliver more fuel at a higher RPM but can the SU provide the air? There's certainly a volumetric max for any carburetor design..... Just a question that's been running through my head. thanks!!! SS

Making some progress. I've installed the front cover, water pump, damper and turbo oil pump. Since the Damper has the timing marks on the opposite side I filed down my own TDC mark. I had one engine lift hook and fab'd a second one. Took some pretty thick steel I had laying around, drilled one hole for mounting to the head and another to run a M10 bolt through for lifting. Tony D provided great direction regarding using eye bolts but Granger was closed on Sunday and proceeded this direction. Next up is the Centerforce clutch. Took the flywheel to the machine shop and checked out fine.

No, taking off the cover only takes a.few minutes. Just be careful putting it back on. The threads are very soft.

Arif/Sparky, Btw...if I need some help installing the motor maybe I can call you guys !!

I'm pretty much the same. Used to go all the time (Chester's) but we had a daughter so..... I went to the National Z Convention here in SA and the last one a couple of years ago. I enjoyed the club but just too busy.. Steve Surbaugh

I'm installing a new timing gear set even though my old one still looked good. The "How to Rebuild.." book mentions a gasket for the chain tensioning housing which was not in my gasket set so I made one from cork. No big deal. Next up is the front cover and Damper.

After getting the damper issue straight I sprayed the .8mm metal head gasket with Copper Coat, let it get tacky, installed the head dowels and bolted up!!

Well the Holiday's offered up additional time to work on the project. I confirmed TDC with a dial indicator since I was installing a new Damper. Like some people have experienced, the damper is a bit tight. .001" of clearance. Jeez...I spent plenty of time sanding the damper bore down. Not to mention the timing marks are set on the opposite side. I believe the L4 engines have timing on that side but you would think MSA would have both styles.

I have a two row Damper you can have for shipping cost. steve

Thanks you all. Plenty of help. ss

Yeah, I got it on about 75% and marked the damper for TDC. I lightly sanded the damper bore with 300 grit...FWIW... then used a block of wood and rubber mallet to get to 75% so I could mark the damper and then remove with too much drama.

Pro...lol

I bought the Powerforce Dampner from MSA. It states the following: Special Note: For 240Z & 260Z, since they have non-adjustable timing pointers, the timing markings on this pulley will be shifted. You will need to match and note the relation of the pulley marks to your original pulley when you remove it. Do the 280z and or ZX have the timing marks on the left side of the front cover? Or just the ZX? The front cover I'm using is from a 280... pic here. Also, it is very tight. Normal to use a rubber mallet to fully seat? I'm measuring just .003" larger than the crank.

Only if you could keep the wire at the exact same angle through the entire procedure and measure within a half mm tolerance + or -

Interesting that $6,000 in 1974 is equivalent to around $27,500 in 2011. Fairly close to the 370z.

After buying a bunch of parts from MSA...Among others I'll be installing a Centerforce Clutch, single row damper and new timing gear (Cool Japanese box btw).

Nelsonian, It will be to mine as well. I'm planning on it since I've never heard one before. I like the SU Carbs. Alot of talk about the sound of Webers...Its so humid and hot in SA that I'm thinking they just won't run well for 2 years until I get the tweaking dialed in with the weather.

After the engine work is done, my end result which I'm shooting for is something like this: Love this stance.... I'd buy this car if I could. Or the Green one. Love the chrome.

After getting the head back I checked the wipe pattern on all lash pads. All are centered. Not all are 100% the same but 9 are nearly identical and 3 vary slightly...Not much. Instead of perfectly centered they are about 55/45.

After doing all this I finally got around to taking the old engine out. Exactly, 1 year ago tomorrow I went to Habor Freight (F...ing junk) to buy the engine lift on Black Friday. $100 bucks. Within 11 months the jack was leaking, which had not been used and went back last month to buy the replacement jack. Another 50 bucks... But, I've never removed, overhauled or rebuit an engine in my life, so I was fairly proud of myself in removing the old engine completely Solo! (With help from Tony D and others on lift points)

To get the quench correct, I opted for the .8mm Metal head gasket. Pricey item. About $300 bucks. I need to check the paper work. Its either a Kameari or Tomei..... It's a 90.5mm bore designed for the 3.1L stroker.