steve260z

Yeah, I see that cost as well. My numbers: Block: $250 Head:$150 Crank: $550 Rods: $150 Pistons: $200 Head Gasket: $300 Bearings: $60 Gasket Kit: $60 Machine Work: $500 Stuff I forgot: $600 That's about $2,900 there including the V07. That's the most expensive piece and since you have two, use one and sell the other.

For reference for a stoker: I'm running the following: 34 chokes but have some 36s coming.... air corrector, 160 Main, 145 Pump Jet, 45 Idle Jet, 60F8 E Tubes, F2

Besides the great car the videos are great! Thumbs up to the video guy. Like the 240 as well.

Thanks. Did you happen to find a gauge that replaces, say the clock or did you just mount the new gauge? steve

What sticky is the pdf from? Regarding the Wideband, do you just hook it to a laptop? I looked it up on Summit but still not sure how you datalog with it. Says, no laptop needed. ss

Which wideband would you suggest? I'm running the following: 34 chokes but have some 36s coming.... air corrector, 160 Main, 145 Pump Jet, 45 Idle Jet, 60F8 E Tubes, F2 Steve

Got the idle around 900. I ordered another return arm and spring from Pierce Manifolds on Tuesday. They were supposed to ship USPS 3 day. Still not here but been tweaking the carbs. The plugs used to look rich. Made a 15 mile run. Look much better now. Maybe lean???

Been tweaking the webers. Got the idle around 900 and idle mixture screws adjusted. Need to sync the carbs. Running well at 12 degrees BTDC. Plug used to be a bit rich. Looks alot better now. Made about a 15 mile run. Just need to remember to screw the K&N filters housing screws tight....Lost one and ran over it......

Ya, I'm to set it at 15 and see where the advance goes from there. I have the vacuum advance disconnected. I don't have a wideband yet. After running it last night I need to inspect the plugs too. ss

Ya, it still is. I can "blip" it down from the drivers seat too. I'm going to get a second "helper" spring this week. I had problems getting the idle down to something reasonable. Did a bunch of tweaking on that and still have that little hang up to fix.

After getting the stroker running I quickly decided that the SUs are too small. Got some used triples. 40s. I'll update all the jets and setting once I get the tuning done. But, it rips and sounds awesome.: IMG_0688.MOV

Well, got it done!! Didn't do any fine tuning. I was just happy to get the idle issue cleaned up. Car absolutely rips. With the SUs 5,200 was the max. Now it races to 6K. Didn't go any higher. Just have 100 miles on the my 3.1L build. Actually shouldn't have taken it to 6K but couldn't resist. Thanks for the tip regarding the tabs that hold the air horns and venturis in. I'll give ya some details once I get the tuning worked out. I'll do it on my build thread here: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/103487-san-antonio-31l-z/ And the handheld video! IMG_0688.MOV

Made some progress. Took the carbs off. Cleaned all the carbon build up around the butterflys with a toothbrush and steel wool. The throttle plates clear all 3 progression holes. One interesting way to gauge the closing of the throttles is just look through them in day light and see how much light is coming through. Tony D mentioned in the other thread that if they're closed they should be about water tight. Mine vary... One carb lets little if any light in. 2nd lets slighter more in and 1 carb is not so good. Light comes through around 75% off one butterfly. But, as mentioned in that same thread (above) is that the speed levers might not be accurate and or bent. One of mine was keeping the butterflys open with the speed screw totally removed. Filed that one down so it doesn't touch the carb body any more. I can get idle at about 12 degrees at 1000 rpms which is a huge improvement. Not done yet. I'm getting a second return spring and arm from Pierce tomorrow. I'm still getting a bit of hung up throttle.

I'm using the series "18". I had the high idle with the other levers. Let me check the progression holes and see what I can see.... Dampner has not slipped. Just built the motor. Besides, I didn't change the timing from the SUs to the Webers on the initial start up. Pinging? I haven't driven the car yet. I want to get the issue straight first. My high idle issue is just as prevalent with the speed screws totally removed. I'm going to check a few things from this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/89994-weber-dcoe-butterflies-wont-close-while-engine-is-running/

Here's a better pic of the set up. I disconnected the linkage and reconnected the linkage and put a lot of tension on the single return spring. Also sprayed starter fluid between the intake manifold and the head, between the carbs, throttle shafts, brake booster and never got the rpms to rev. It appears I don't have a vacuum leak in those areas. With the linkage disconnected or connected with the return spring I'm still getting high idle. If I rev the motor the carbs do not come back to the original rpms....Getting some sticking on the butterflys or shafts or bearings.. Now, I bought these used at soaked the entire carb bodies sans jets in Berrymans parts cleaners. This may have been stupid. That stuff is kinda sticky and I did not remove the bearings prior to the soaking. I of course cleaned the bodies with carb cleaner afterwards but not the bearings. Maybe this is an issue, maybe not........ All three carbs have functioning throttle springs in the carb body. Unless anyone has another idea I'm going to take the cabs off, clean the bearings and take a close look at any binding I have on the throttle plates. Also going to get another return/spring arm. And God Bless the troops past, current and future on this Memorial Day. steve

Ok, finally got my parts and linkage hooked up. Its kinda "hacked together" right now. Need to get a fuel rail and maybe cut down the main rod. But, I'm getting the high idle. If I set the timing at 2 degree BTC I'm running at 2,500rpms. I have the idle screws set a 1/2 a turn from bottomed out and my idle speed/throttle adjustment are just an 1/8 of a turn past contact.

Ah, the retaining tabs. That's what those things are.... Yes, using the slip on style. This carbs came 99% complete but with plenty of unidentified parts/bolts/nuts. Thanks for the tip. ss

Yea, I rounded up the 12 longer studs between a local Ace hardware and Autozone. Each had about 7 of them. I have the K&N filters that appear to fit. I haven't put them on yet...I picked these carbs up from another guy here in the parts for sale section. Not to mention also having to retap the intake manifold for the larger "eye" bolts that come with the Billet kit. I'm using the crane electronic module since my stock module crapped out a few years back. I haven't set the timing yet. I've just been checking for leaks...which did occur. One of the Venturis was not fully seated and gas was dripping out the front of the carb. I'm using the ball stud type so I don't see being able to use a left and right next to each other. Its certainly a mock up deal and see how everything fits. ss

T-Bone, Oh yea, you will. After wrestling out stuck pump jets, grinding down the intake manifold to fit next to the headers, ordering all new chokes, main jets, E Tubes, Idle Jets, exhaust jets, main jets and air correctors I've finally got the carbs on the car. Not to mention soft mounts, T and deadhead fittings and billet linkage. I've now discovered I need left side throttle levers so those are coming thursday. But, without any throttle I've got the webers/car running at idle! Sounds great and idles well. I haven't messed with the timing yet. I just wanted to make sure my gaskets and hoses didn't have any leaks since I was making an order to Pierce anyway. steve

T-Bone, I'm about 1 week behind you. Waiting on a couple of linkage pieces. Anyway, I have a stroker as well. After weighing the differences between 40s and 45s I chose 40s. I've rejetting them and currently have 34mm chokes. Since I couldn't find any hard data regarding these two carbs on a stroker I went conservative thus guaranteeing good street performance verses a car that only performed between 4,500 and redline. Its a street car. Not a track car. Interesting write here: Based on a 2.8 but still good and from a good source.: http://datsunzgarage.com/weber/ I'll update my install within the week. steve

Why don't you go re-read why he is running them then you won't be "sad/funny to witness"

Great. I'm right behind you. Re-jetting the carbs, got a couple of pump jets "unstuck" and drilled out an exhaust valve. Currently do a mock set up with the billet linkage. My jets are different and I'll give you my feedback. Stroker as well. Off the top of my head, my main jet is 145. Chokes are 34, F2 emulision tubes and can't recall the rest. What about the pump jet size?

I might be interested in the Carbs. What price are we talking? Thanks steve

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/104837-connecting-rods-backwards/