steve260z

After mulling over what head to use, I decided on the P90. Supposedly the best flowing or close to it, square exhust ports which will fit my headers from my E88 head and a non-open chamber design. Picked one up here on Hybrid. $100 bucks if I recall correctly. I'm using my Schneider Stage 2 cam from my 2.6L with springs, retainers and lash pads. Love how interchangeable all these Z parts are. The P90 arrived in great shape. No stripped threads and had not been shaved. Cleaned up great. Machine shop did a valve job, replaced a few valves, tested the springs all for about $100 bucks. The 1st pic is my E88 when I had it reconditioned a few years back. Note the open chamber verse the P90.

I used the "240sx" Pistons and 9mm 240z Rods. Basically the same project detailed in this well known page: http://www.geocities.com/inlinestroker/index.htm Except for the fact I used a P90, shaved the pistons and used a thinner head gasket. Once the pistons are installed they rise above the deck by .6mm. The machine shop shaved the "ring" or "dish" off in a lathe. End result was .6mm below the deck. Wow.. perfect.. At least according to the above page. 1st pic has the pistons installed before shaving and 2nd is after shaving. Block paint is a Ford Blue. Close enough for me. I've also attached an Excel which lists the piston weights. Piston Weights Grams 4/15/2011 Piston # 1 466 2 466 3 467 4 465 5 467 6 466 2 not used: 465 468

Here's the F54 Block after getting bored out. Machine shop is an absolute steal. Costs like $200 to clean, check and bore out.

The F54 Block which I purchased for $250.00 which included delivery to my door. High price but very easy. Also the V07 Crank (And the car it came out of). After searching the local junk yards and finding no Diesel Maximas, I bit the bullet and paid around $500 for the crank. Ouch....Turned out to be in very good condition. Machine shop did very little to it. My buddy had a gas Maxima in HS. Great car by the way. Can't say I ever knew anyone who had a diesel. Actually, can't even remember the car being produced for that matter..

My early 74 260Z: Tokico springs and struts. Lowered by about 1.5". Headers and Exhaust from MSA and electric fan.

Ok, Bought this 74 Z from the original owner in 1999. Strictly a weekend car. Always wanted a Z in HS but never happened. So, at 32 years old I decided to buy one. Original owner was a couple in Austin who both taught at UT. They tended to drive "his" car to work and the Z was not driven too much. I turned it over to 100K on my test drive. So, an original owner car with an average of 4K a year. No mods what so ever, except for floor carpet as floor mats. No sunroof, no stereo no anything added or changed. Well, actually 3 separate re-sprays of original color paint on the exterior and round top carbs. After 8 years I got the upgrade bug and proceeded to read a ton and start buying parts. Here's the ongoing story. As I write this I've removed the old block and getting close to installing the new stroker. I give huge thanks to everyone on Hybrid Z for answering my questions and posting information that eventually helps me or someone else. Steve Here is the original window sticker to the car.. Window Sticker.pdf

Found one. thanks, steve

Need an engine front cover. Needs to be good usage condition with no broken off bolts. Could also use the bolts or some bolts that come with. Email steve at: ssurbaugh@gmail dot com thanks steve

Thanks, you guys are a ton of help.

Thanks!

Been searching I know its here.......putting stroker together with p90 , Su carbs and N36 manifold. Will the injector holes be.covered by the N36? Thanks, Ss

Yep, it does. That puts it in perspective. ss

Tony and all, Thanks for the advice. Actually have a Granger about 1/2 mile from the office. When installing the new 3.1L block without the head are the headbolt holes safe in regards to stress placed on them, from lifting? The 2.6L I'm removing I will not be used and have not found a buyer, so I'm not concerned about it. Just want to make sure I'm not causing a future torque problem when bolting down the new head on the 3.1L. In terms of where to place/space the eye bolts...what's the weight distribution on a short block without the tranny? In other words, what's the best diagonal positions for these bolts so the block pulls up fairly balanced? Thanks ss

Yeah, bolts on the side sound interesting. I'll be doing it sat. In addition to thinking how to.get the 3.1 in....another pita is the engine lift legs won't clear the front control arms so the car also needs to be jacked while lifting the motor out, while reducing my vertical lift clearance by the same amount.

I'm finally moving again on my 3.1L. Have most of it assembled but need the front cover from the 2.6L besides removing it.

To clarify, will not be re-using the bolts or the block. Can you remind me what the strongest metric bolt is? Code on top of the bolt? Can I easily purchase bolts as strong as the head bolts? Thanks! Steve

I'm removing my L6. The straps I purchased are too long. I've set up this idea, could be a bad idea but want to check. I've installed 4 of the short head bolts through the chain. The bolt heads will not slip through the chain. Thoughts? Thanks steve

My error..Tony is correct as usual.

By running the 2mm head gasket you lose the quench between the piston and head. But that assumes your running a quench head. Which head are you using? With a P90, P79 or e31(which is too high compression anyway) you'll want to use a much thinner gasket to take advantage of the quench characteristics of the head. If using an E88 or N42, those are open chamber designs and quench is not an issue.

Yes, the cast pistons are fine for your application.

Have you verified tdc by looking at the piston through the spark plug hole, then the cam lobe position then the distributor position.? Tried new distributor cap and wires. I'd do all that plus new gas plus any other above issues and certainly get advice on the carbs before taking apart. It just sure seems much more likely than the bottom end being too tight. When he put the motor together he must have turned the bottom end himself with ease.

One interesting side note since I posted this question. I purchased this .6mm, 90.5mm Kameari HG from Brian at Z car customs JDM (zccjdm.com). I sent these pics and basically asked the same question I did here. He contacted Mr. Miro, who, I understand designs many Kameari products and or founded Kameari...I'm sure someone here knows the story. Anyway, Brian at zccjdm forwarded Mr.Miro's response, to quote: "I designed the KAMEARI L6 head gasket so that F54(P90 HEAD) could share it with N42. When F54(P90 HEAD) compares the port of the gasket, there is a different place. However, there is no problem to use it. Please do not worry." Interesting. Steve

Tony, Thanks...I was searching/looking in terms of "gasket" verses head cooling. Duh.........

Have you pulled the plugs? Are they carbon fouled? If so that can confirm the car is actually running rich. Do you have a timing light? If not they are fairly cheap. Sears/other parts stores. But you need a timing light. I'm sure there are many posts on checking the timing either here or on Zcar.com (no need to repeat the procedure here.) Its straightforward.

I would first check the carbs regardless. Are they SU Carbs? Make sure the adjustment nuts are not turned too far down resulting in a rich mixture. Among other how to sites, here's one: http://www.sonic.net/~kyle/su.html