steve260z

No, I'm certainly not going to abide by Murphy. I dialed in TDC with a micro meter. The above just came about while I was putting it together. I did forget the issue of head/block shaving. That would play an important role. Steve

Currently putting my 3.1L stroker together for the 2nd time. Got the engine mounted and discovered the machine shop left one exhaust manifold bolt off in the head. It all had to come out and apart. Upon putting it back together I've noticed something and wondering if I'm right or missing something. Using the "How to Rebuild Book", it calls for setting the 1 piston at TDC using a micro meter then placing the head on the block and you know the rest. Using a new timing chain and associated stuff why wouldn't the following method produce a correctly spot on TDC assembled motor? Set the #1 piston close to TDC, set the #1 valves closed on the head with lobes pointing up, set the new cam sprocket on the #1 dowel while correctly placing the 2 bright links on the chain on the crankshaft sprocket marker and cam sprocket. Now, since the cam and sprocket fit together via dowel and its a fixed distance between the cam and crankshaft sprocket because of the set number of links why wouldn't this result in perfect set up? Obviously, you would need to maybe rotate a bit after assembly to eliminate any slack in the chain but as long as the set up is close won't the end result be correct, due to the above reasons? ie...fixed length amount of chain, timing mark on the crankshaft sprocket and only 1 way to fit cam sprocket to cam. (I realize there are 3 ways to fit the cam sprocket but we're just talking all new parts here) Thanks steve

Looking at cast or forged?

Here's my thread on the same/similar issue. I've not quite completed the motor install so I can't provide any feedback on the gasket yet. Mine's a stroker but still applies. Steve http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/98875-90mm-gasket-coolant-holes/page__p__927430__fromsearch__1#entry927430

Thanks. Got it from Motorsport.

bump...

Do the metal flanges face the head or Intake/Exhaust? I'm thinking Intake Exhaust but just making sure. Thanks, Steve

Reload those other pics.

Ya, that's my next step.Hopefully it will work.....Certainly no better than 50/50

Well, after putting my stroker together and getting the motor in the car, I just noticed one header bolt is broken off in the head. (Machine shop missed this as well) Its the very 1st hole in the head. If I make sure the header flange is perfectly flat and do not use this 1st bolt hole will I have a leak????? Crap...... Thanks steve

If the head and pistons are stock, CR is about 8.3

Are you dead set on an open chamber head? Better way to go is a P90.....

What head? steve

Mine did the exact same thing once, clogged fuel filter.

You'll need resurface the rockers to be totally safe. Since the rockers and Cam are going on a different head the wipe pattern will be different and the lobes will not pass over the rockers in the same pattern.

Same here. The oil passages are the same. Thats why various heads and blocks can be used together.

Yep, better quit while you're ahead!

Making steady progress. The motor is now hanging on the engine lift verses the engine stand. Bolted up the intake manifold and putting the flywheel and clutch on this Saturday. Had to order the Clutch release fork rubber seal from Gunn last week. Just picked up today. Is your Z running or working on it? Steve

All your concern is over the "dyno tuner's" comments? Who could actually no little more than operating the dyno. btw 10.1 on a stroker is not too high. Certainly with a cam. What head do you have and does it ping and what is the timing?

"lol the mud flaps came off as soon as i got it home i think they look terrible. they werent even real mud flaps.. just pieces of hard plastic cut to fit." And I thought the hand cut carpet remnants, as floor mats were lame, in the Z I bought......

Jasper, Thanks for the link to the link. Never seen those TBs before. ss

What do you mean by "If I bend the tab to raise the level, the float hits the float chamber side"? To hit the side, you mean the float is not traveling straight up? I assume you've already looked the stuff up, if not: http://www.jetlink.net/~okayfine/su/sutech.html#anchor108396 http://www.jetlink.net/~okayfine/su/moreinfo.html ss

I'm sure your engine is fine. That's not your your issue. Its been a while since I adjusted the float levels. I'll let someone else comment on that. ss

Clouding up??? If I didn't know better, I'd be velocitized into a constant state of compressed manifold confusion.

Greg Ira's example provides compelling support in addition to Tony's last post. The SUs I'm using are not ebay carbs. Been on my 260 for 10 years/40,000 miles. They were rebuilt shortly prior to that by the original owner. These are round tops. They are in good condition. Can't say top condition but certainly not worn out. I'll probably get some new jets to be safe. The throttle shafts are in good condition. Frankly, the SUs are my last project on this 3.1L deal....So, I haven't decided yet what to replace there yet. I'm bolting up the flyweel and clutch now so carbs are next. I WANT these to pull hard to 6.5K...That will be awesome. Feel free to toss in advice on the carbs and Thanks as always for the input. ss