pparaska

The Black Magic 150 (the biggest) is WAY overrated, IMO. The OE fans really pull current - and that's means they also pull alot of air. IF the Blak Magic fan is not doing the job, I say move up to a Taurus or GT Mustang fan (or other good OE fans).

Cam choice - now there's a topic! I agree that a builder that's done alot of winning cars for the racing style you are after is a good starting point. But I've always been one to wonder how/why things work, and the issue of how to get air/fuel to flow in and out of an IC engine is very interesting to me - so I've done a bit of reading. What's really enticing to me is the idea of fast opening and closing ramps. Especially when you have to deal with streetable compression ratios, short stroke (like my 327), etc. The theories on dynamic pressure and the effect of Intake Valve Closing IVC point really make sense to me. I think .050" duration figures are only slightly useful, as a slow ramp cam with say 230 degrees duration at .050" lift will have a later IVC point than one with faster ramps (like a roller, or the Comp Cams extreme energy flat tappet grinds, for example), all things being equal (LSA, etc.) A case in point: Comp Cams 270S Magnum solid lifter cam for the SBC. This cams specs are: PN 12-222-4 Grind Number CS 270S-10 _________________Intake Exhaust Valve Adjustment 0.022 0.022 Gross Valve Lift 0.468 0.468 Duration At 0.015 Tappet Lift 270 270 Valve Timing At 0.015 ______Open Close Intake 29 61 Exhaust 69 21 These Specs Are For The Cam Installed At 106 Intake CL ________________Intake Exhaust Duration At 0.05 224 224 Lobe Lift ______0.312 0.312 Lobe Separation 110 Note that the cam has 270 deg of seat timing, 224 deg of .050 timing and has a IVC of 61 deg ATDC Now look at another solid flat tappet cam, from the extreme line: PN 12-677-4 Grind Number CS XS274S-10 ________________Intake Exhaust Valve Adjustment 0.016 0.016 Gross Valve Lift 0.501 0.51 Duration At 0.015 Tappet Lift 274 280 Valve Timing At 0.015 ______Open Close Intake 31 63 Exhaust 74 26 These Specs Are For The Cam Installed At 106 Intake CL _________________Intake Exhaust Duration At 0.05 236 242 Lobe Lift 0.334 0.34 Lobe Separation 110 Note that the open/close seat duration is 4 degrees more on this grind (intake), therefore the IVC is only 2 degrees later (63 vs 61). But notice that it has 12 degrees more 0.050" duration (236 vs 224). Yes, the overlap is a bit higher (57 vs 50 degrees), but I'm hoping the IVC being close will mean that there should still be decent idle vacuum. I realize this is comparing a non-split duration cam with a split duration, so the waters are muddied (more overlap being a consequence). That wider exhaust timing will cause a bit of low speed mixture dilution, I suppose. But one issue is that with the latter cam (12-677-4), the cranking pressure (dynamic pressure to some) only went down from 196 psia to 192.4 psia (for my 327 anyway), versus the 12-222-4. And that's totally a function of the IVC point. I also wonder that if I don't use the advertised lash setting, but run both at 0.016" lash, will things be more different or more the same? Wow, pretty far afield with this response. I guess what I'm trying to say is having experts help select stuff is good, but I like being an educated consumer. But my education is far from over on this topic and many to do with engine design/building.

Woah! With a cam/motor that radical, 6th is going to be a tough cruise unless you have 4.11:1 or more, I'd think!

This is pretty typical. Since it's IRS, one tire doesn't get unloaded like a solid axle. I've also heard that the spider gears and/or shaft or case can flex causing the spiders to bind a bit under heavy torque, making it kind of lock up.

Beautiful!

IF you use a fuel level gage for an older Ford you can get it to work with the Datsun Sender.(The older Ford Sending units are 73 ohms Empty and 8-12 ohms Full, very close to the Datsun) I have a page that describes getting it to read correctly at Empty and Full: http://members.home.net/pparaska/gagecalibration.htm

Looks good! Nice detail on the work! I bet you can't wait to drive it!

Mike, very sorry to hear about you motor not being what it was supposed to be. Can you imagine that motor letting go because you thought it had the good parts in it - at 150+ in the desert, oil spitting out under the tires, etc.? I wonder if these turkeys consider that they could actually be endangering peoples lives by misrepresenting what is in the motor they sell you. After going through my motor the second time, and paying attention to ALL the little nits, I am a bit burnt out and had been considering a crate motor the next time around. Well, this thread had removed that consideration from my mind. I now have all the special tools need for assembly, the books, experience, and of course Grumpyvette and others here and on Chevytalk. Why the heck would I consider NOT doing my own motor again. I'm back to reality now. Mike, if you need a hand with anything, just holler - don't hurt yourself with just one hand free! BTW, where there dowel pins in the block for the head that fell off?

Too glitzy for me.

Just rumor, but I've heard that by the time you get the Supertrap's even a bit quiet, they are quite restrictive.

Done lots of times. Very cool little roadster, now with some umph! Check this out: http://members.aol.com/danmas/examples.htm#mg

If you didn't run the motor or turn it over you're probably o.k. If you didn't crank it over, there should be no water/coolant in the oil pump or galleys. I'd just drain the oil, probably the filter too, although it should not have any in it if it wasn't cranked or run. Maybe dump another quart into the top of the heads to flush it out, but that's probably over kill too.

I have a method for using a Ford type gage (Autometer) and the Datsun sender on my site: http://members.home.net/pparaska/gagecalibration.htm

I agree that the 7" sleeves are the easy way, but my rims actually touch the sleeves on my car (rear struts), and that's with 1.5" removed from the tubing and the sleeves temporarily at the top of the strut. I used a length of exhuast tubing to hold them there until the car is fully assembled. But now I can see that I will be cutting 1/2" from the Carrera coilover tubes and mounting them at the top of the rear struts. For the front I used a similar method, but the exhaust tubing rests on the brake hose bracket (for mocking up things only.)

To make it worth while, you'd need to ensure that the material is strong and bonded extremely well. Even still, a mount in tension is still a bad place to start.

Experience / opinion here on this one. Yeah, that stainless looks cool BUT: 1) Stainless is harder to deform in the flared area than the ERM steel lines. It makes it a real chore to get them to seal up. I had to really tighten the heck out of all my connections to get them to stop weeping. I had Classic Tube make up my lines to the lengths I needed with the metric 10mm flare nuts on them. I then bent them myself. (BTW, I also ran my driver side line along the inner fender/rail corner and out through the inner fender, instead of around the rail past the headers. Very clean.) 2) Watch out for the type of metric flare nuts. The ones that Classic Tube sells have an unthreaded portion next to the flared end. (They call this the "nose" of the fitting.) With that there, it leaves very few threads engaged when threaded into the Datsun fittings/ports. YOu need to have them cut off the "nose" (extra charge for the lathe work). Tell them it's for a Nissan with double inverted flare ends and they'll understand. I also had trouble getting the cheaper $60 double flare tool to make reliable flares. That's why I had Classic Tube make all my lines to length. Hope this helps,

I agree - especially if you duct it to the brakes and/or differential! (in other words, make it functional!)

Congrats on the car progress and congrats on the baby-in-wait! When the word minivan or SUV comes around, think low slung sport wagon! (WRX, etc.)!

Bad! Remind me to smack you up side the head the next time I see you! Seriously, I understand the problem with not being able to work on a motor even when crippled. But take some time off and let that wrist heal! magnaflux and use if o.k. (if they were polished, shot peened, etc.) But at $230, that's not bad, either. I'd be tempted.

The "pilot" diameter is the diameter of the round depression in the center of the bolting surface of the pinion flange.

The muncie, if made for an old GM, ought to bolt right up to any 327 bellhousing. I didn't know there was a long tail muncie - that ought to be a big help, if not TOO long.

Definitely check out the FAQ on jeremio's site on this topic: http://240z.jeromio.com/faqdraft/faqchassis.html#struts Also, note that sectioning may not be needed if you are going to coilovers and are doing away with the stock isolator. If you do camber plates, this will lower the car and maybe obviate the need for sectioning the strut. When I sectioned mine (I kept the stock isolator), I laid the cut pieces in the inside of a piece of angle iron and clamped them down to keep them in line and parallel.

Could one of you measure the diameter of the inflated Excel doughnut spare for me? And the lug bolt hole diameters and wheel center diameter? Thanks

Jared, I for one love this idea. The TT engine is very nice, but very hard to work on and expensive to fix or get fixed once the Turbos go out (which they do more often that many other turbo cars). I agree with Scottie that I see alot of snobbish-ness in the Z32 community , but of course, there are purists for every enthusiast car. I'd like to see you do it to rub it in the purists faces a bit, but moreso because it's different and a torquey alternative! Plus you won't have to take out a huge bank account to support the Wolf, etc. houses that tweak the Z32 - but deal with the DIY mod-friendly GN crowd! I can't wait to see you do it! Of course, I encourage you to document it with pics, writeup, etc. on a web site.

It seems that many high torque Z cars do just fine with the JTR/Spicer/Neapco driveshaft adapter and the 2.5" diameter driveshaft. You could get a thicker walled driveshaft built, if you're really concerned.