pparaska

Mike, besides the height adjustablility which is very nice, another great advantage is that the springs are available in many lengths and MANY different rates. Some places will let you try a spring for a month and if you feel the rate is not right for your app, they'll take them back in trade for another rate. Even so, the springs are like $60 each, not expensive at all.

I'm obviously with you guys (Dan, jeremio). On the street, low and mid range torque is king. Heck, even in alot of racing, it's king. I don't see the need to rev past 6000 rpm, if I can get 400 hp or more easily with a pushrod V8 that's totally streetable. Let the OHC snobs have their VTEC, DOHC, etc. It's all fine and good to brag about, but I've not seen a DOHC engine that I'd want in my Z over a pushrod V8. Now if were' 100% on the road course, things change. There are alot of technology snobs out there, no matter what the field you're talking about. I have no use for such nonsense.

John, that's going to be awesome! I want a ride! Hella coin!

Congrats Tim, I can't wait to see them. I bought the S&W kit, but had the body guy weld it in. He did alot better job than I could have. The way I had it put in, (hoop between the inner wheel houses, up on the raised floor behind the seat) the guy even had to take a section out of the main hoop! He used a smaller piece of tubing slid into the hoop to hold it together, and then but welded it together. Not the best, but it's not going anywhere. All the other tubes had to be trimmed as well. But no tubing bender was needed, so in all it saved me money. I only paid $200 to have it put in - not bad.

If that's the only existing vacuum port in the manifold, you might have enough wall thickness in the runners to drill and tap for another. Or you could put a T on the carb base large vacuum port (rear, on the throttle body) and run both the PCV and brake booster to it. Definitely run a PCV.

Van, you could have even helped me figure out who to pay how much, let alone do the work. The amount of money I paid for bodywork and paint is incredibly shameful. You could have made some nice coin AND saved me a ton too! Lone, you're lucky to have Van to talk to about this - he's done alot of this and knows what he's talking about!

I had the underside, interior, and engine bay painted, and the body work done first (well, done to the FIRST shop's standards). Then I installed the stuff on the underside, the engine, trans, all the wiring, hoses, got it driveable (without windows). Then I had the bodywork touched up and the car painted. Well, that was a good plan (nice working on the engine bay and not leaning over the freshly painted fenders!), but alas, the bearings were pooched in short order and it all came out (putting the engine together now).

Send an email to zcaradmin@hybridz.org Dan should be able to help. Sounds like a cool tool to add to my Z special tool kit!

Great discussion guys. BTW, Grumpy Jenkins wrote in his book on the SBC that the 327 SJ crank was the heaviest forged crank among them all, if I recall correctly. Also, the 327 piston will have a taller compression height (if the same rod length is used). These things MIGHT take away that seemingly lighter rotating/reciprocating assembly. Me, I'd go with the 350 to save money. If I were starting all over, it'd be a 406 or 415 for me! For the time being, it's a 327 (331).

http://www.veva.bc.ca/woodburn/2000/datsun.htm

With the severe amount of rust I see in the rocker top and windshield area alone, I'd say there's some really serious structural rust beneath those areas (the reas of the A pillar, the inner rocker box, etc.). I'd cut my losses if I were you. My Z wasn't that bad, and in my opinion, I should have started with a better car. Fixing all that rust (the stuff you see now and a ton more you can't see) will take a long time and be pretty depressing work. A Z shell is cheap in comparison, even with shipping!

Beautiful motor! I like those covers too! It's going to look great in that engine bay!

I don't understand how they could be the same. All the FWD cars I've seen (including the 85 Maxima I had) have splined shafts on the outer joint that goes into the wheel hub. The inner joing and shaft COULD be the same though.

Check out this tuning page: http://www.bob2000.com/carb.htm It can help get you started.

Sounds like it's either really lean at idle (but then I doubt it would run very well), or very retarded ignition. Are you sure the TDC marks are correct? Around 69 Chevy changed the pointer and damper timg mark locations a bit. Mixing parts here can cause problems with incorrect TDC marks.

You can buy the Scarab type mounts and the headers from Hooker, last I heard.

An older tech at work told me that crimp connectors were developed by the space industry in the 50s or 60s? because of the fatigue issue with soldered connections. Done right, crimped is better. The problem is good crimping tools are EXPENSIVE and not universal to all crimp connectors.

Thanks for taking this on, Mike! I'll not need help in this forum for a year or two

Congrats guys! BLKMGK has been an absolute EFI SLUT for the last few weeks. He's badgering the hell out of the people here, on chevytalk.com, all the manufactureres, who knows where else. This ought to be great! I have an empty EFI brain, please fill it guys!

Thanks John - great stuff!

Looks awesome. All I can think about when I see those dual turbos hanging off the side of a straight 6 is Wangan Midnight! I bet your car would put those to shame though...

Thanks Miles, That 2.5 degrees jives with my notes. Of course, I don't think my car was level when I measured. I found that for my install, (with the rear of the diff raised about 1/2" with cutdown urethane Mustache bar bushings and the top large washer there removed) that the centerline of my tranny output shaft was about 2" above the pinion centerline at the pinion flange, and about 3" above it at the tranny yoke. The angle between the centerlines was something like 1.5 degrees, before I raised the rear of the tranny. I like the sound of the MSA trans mount how it allows you to change the height of the tranny mount so easily!

Hi Grumpy, Check out my site at: http://members.home.net/pparaska/MichaelOlsZ.htm Unfortunately, no good pics of the install. But if you search this forum, a "Michael" (his displayed name here) has posted about the details before. Hopefully he'll chime in.

Please, before anyone posts to this thread, go back and read the incredible amount of info that's in it. I think all the bases have been covered at least once, but I could be wrong. Things are a bit tense in this thread. I HATE to lock any thread, but if no new INFO is being posted and we are just throwing spears back and forth, I will. Please don't post to this thread unless you have something new to add. A story of why you went from a Scarab position to a JTR, a new technical insight. I think we've beat this topic to death, but I do encourage new thoughts, ideas, testimony...

FWIW, the amount I posted is totally a guess by ME. Still, did you check out the detail and excellent work on that motor? That's what really impressed me, aside from the parts selections.