pparaska

Spot Caliper top or bottom: I think that if you put it on the top the cable will need to be longer. The lever has to pull downward to activate it if the spot caliper is on the top. This would involve a longer cable, since the cable would have to come down from the tunnel, and curve back up at a near vertical angle. But... Ford cable: If the Ford cable is longer (probably would be!), then this is an option. Plus you'd get away from the cable housing hitting the unibody. I'm generally lazy about doing research on this stuff, so I probably made it harder by trying to use the OE cable.

Omar, aren't bearing spacers, machine work, new ARP bolts, resizing, etc. going to get close to or go beyond $170? Stock rods are cool, but to have great bolts in a goood designed rod for cheap money is hard to turn down.

quote: Originally posted by Kevin Shasteen: I momentarily got off track from throwing myself a curve...but I'm back to the normal abnormal self. Thank goodness for that - we need your normal abnormalness to keep the atmosphere here correct

Since I used the stock cable and the stock (but modified) bracket t hold the cable housing, that part was easy - just had to find the angle and position to mount the cable bracket at to point the cable end near teh lever on teh spot caliper and to not have the housing stick up too far so it wouldn't hit the unibody. At the lever end, you can see the stock cable end attached to the lever on the spot caliper: (Larger version here) I did have to use a smaller pin through the lever arm, and some bushings I made up to make it not fit slopily in the cable end.

Jim, the little bracket on the right in this photo: (Larger version here) is the bracket that holds the stock handbrake cable. I cut part of the stock bracket off and added a little angle bracket to it by welding. It mounts to the top hydraulic brake caliper to AZ Z car bracket bolt on my setup. From that same bolt is another small bracket with a spring that you can see in this photo: (Larger version here) It makes the cable housing point down and out towards the lever on the spot caliper. But you have to watch the housing inboard of the caliper, etc, as it wants to smack the unibody frame rail in a bump. I need to work something out for that yet. If you need anymore info, let me know.

I haven't used that one, but the one I use at work and at home is Univerter : http://members.tripod.com/tbarham/Univerter/ Id not only converts a single units, but can do combinations of them like 1 ft * 500 lbf = 677.908..... N*m You just put in the stuff on the left hand side of the equation, and the units desired on the right hand side, and it caalculates the number (6.77, etc.)

I was waiting for sommeone to chime in and ask how to get their (stub axle) nuts off.

An X-pipe on a V8 with regular headers will smooth the tone as well but probably nothing like 180 headers. The 180 Header idea might work on a SBC V8Z in the setback position, as there's a bunch of room in front of the oil pan sump and behind the crossmember to run the pipes through. How you'd get equal length to make it work would be a problem, but maybe instead of timing the pulses for two revolutions and using those pipe lengths, you could use maybe pulses on the previous 720 or 1440 degrees of rotation for those long pipes from the other side of the engine? What I'm thinking is that if you need to steal pulses from one of the cylinders of the opposite bank, maybe use short pipes for the 2 cylinders on one side of the engine (say 1 and 7), and pipes 2 or 3 times as long from the cylinder on the other side (4 and 6). Do the same thing on the other header, short pipes from cylinders 2 and 8, and pipes 2 oor three times as long from cylinders 3 and 5. That'd be 4 pipes crossing under the engine - there might be room for that. This way the pulses would arrive at the collector in even intervals (every 180 degrees) but from the previous revolutions of the motor for the cylinders on the other side of the engine. Does this sound right? I'm probably all wet.

You mean like this? : More pics at : http://members.home.net/pparaska/brakemods.htm I agree a single caliper with handbrake provisions would be preferred.

Hi Michael - When Glen and I visit on the 23/24th I'd be glad to take digital pics with my camera if that's be easier - or let you use my digital since you're the shutterbug and I'm not . I can host some new ones on my site as well. This is one wild V8Z. I can't wait to get a ride in it - buckets of torque in a light Z has got to be a blast!

8 gage sounds right for 50 amp service. Check this out: http://www.ibiblio.org/obp/electricCircuits/Ref/REF_3.html I'd run the conduit and single wire 8 gage pieces in it. I'd hate to dig into romex with that much current capability at a later date!

Kevin, I don't see why the deck height has anything to do with it. The graph should always go to TDC height, not the deck height of the setup. So for the same stroke and rod length, the graphs are identical. In otherwords, use the TDC point as the datum, not the highest deck height - that's too variable and has nothing to do with the slider crank issue. BTW, they used a Ford 300 6 Cylinder rod to get the deck height to a reasonable level. That will change your slider crank results appreciably though.

I'd go with the conduit and separate 8 gage wires in it. I'd hate to dig into a 50 amp circuit later down the road!

I don't understand any of the words either - but I watched 4 of them, and I have a few waiting for me to find the time. I LOVE the on the road shots and the sound of the turbos, intake swoosh, etc. The 17 speed trannies are pretty funny though .

I could write a short book on electrical mods I've done to my Z. But most people aren't as nuts as me about having tons of relays to run this or that, security stuff (which I won't post so no one but me knows how it works on my car), headlights, etc. I recently drew up a circuit to cut into the headlight wiring going along the right fenderwell to add two relays, one for high beam, one for low beam. Alsil, lone and spotfitz have it (thanks spotfitz for pointing out the wire I forgot to put in). I will put it on my site and post a link to it, if anyone is interested. Not sure we need a separate forum for it, miscellaneous tech, seems to be appropriate, but I'm not against it. It would make searching for things a bit easier, so that'd be cool.

Sounds great, z ya. Add a G-nose and it'd be that much better, IMO. Dan's car looks sweet! Great color too. I like that black Wangan Midnite looking car that Jamie has on his site - that's NICSHH

(oops, I see Terry already gave the same info.) The 240-280Z stub has a flat on the end for the peen over type 240-280Z nut to be peened against. Use a 280ZX stub axle nut - it's a pinch type lock nut - no peening necessary.

Yes the 280Z stubs are stronger.

No computer, I just want to see how I do at guessing (I updated my guess): 440ft/lbs @4300rpm 455hp @ 6300rpm I think this motor is going to really wake up your Z! BTW, is the hydraulic or solid roller?

It's very easy to mis-read the 3's and 8's on the cast in numbers. I bet the first number is actually a 3.

Thankfully, the newer heads that are really nice like the Twisted Wedge and AFR flow alot while having smaller volume runners. Port volume really can't be totally tied to the highest port velocity, because it's the smallest cross section that will dictate (to some degree) the port velocity. Since the port is not ove constant cross section, and it turns, the velocity varies a great deal from place to place. Vizard's book on porting the SBC heads is great and goes into this in alot of detail.

Anyone ever seen flow numbers for pocket ported 462/461, etc. any fuelie heads? The ports are all pretty close from what I've read. I have a set of 461s w/ 2.02/1.60s that have been pocket ported, intake matched and have a 3 angle valve job. The shop wants $75 to flow 2 ports, and I'm thinking this info MUST be out there somewhere, and I can keep my $75 (which won't make me go any faster anyway).

Rick, you have to watch DD2K. It's buried in the online pdf manual, but selecting "roller" for a mild roller like that will give very optimistic results. I believe their suggestion is to select "solid" for mild street rollers. Run it like that and those numbers will come down quite a bit - to realistic numbers. That's one of the things I really hate about DD2K. If they at least let you put in BOTH the advertised "seat-to-seat" (.006" lift, whatever) and 0.050" durations, they could calculate how intense the lope was and make a better estimate than leaving it up to the user to select cam type, IMHO. Watch using those "pocket ported" heads too - they flow better than some ported heads.

Air Flow research has that: http://www.airflowresearch.com/Articles/A11-P1.htm I've noticed alot of broken stuff lately on the Martel Bros site. Mine too

Go Davy! You the Man. Hey, how about getting a car to put that carb onto - sorry, couldn't resist .