pparaska

Just in those shots I saw a lot of rust where you don't always see it. Look VERY closely at the entire car for rust. If it's very rusty it's not safe, especially with a V8

I might add that when the oil is cold, a cheap oil filter might burst since the bypass is blocked. Cold oil can really increase the oil pressure. So the bypass can save you if you start the engine with really cold oil and then rev the piss out of it. Bypassing dirty oil is probably better than blowing up a weak filter case and making a huge mess and possibly ruining the bearings with zero oil pressure. I suppose you could damage the distributor drive gear too, or twist the oil pump drive shaft or mess up the oil pump with the heavy loading when pushing that much oil pressure through the engine. My buddy across the street with a 427 Cobra replica just replaced his oil cooler. He said the repo oil cooler came with documentation that said something like "we sell a bypass filter/hose kit for those people that insist on stomping the gas pedal with a cold engine - the oil cooler can not take the pressure."

I know, don't tell me - this is an old thread. I was just searching and found this thread and wanted to add my data to it. I had the JTR radiator, JTR SBC position and ran the following hoses: Top Hose: Dayco 70651cs - This hose is very long and had close to a foot of extra length I didn't need. I used a 1-1/2" ID to 1-1/4" ID Hose adapter to connect it to the radiator, NAPA PN 900 "Hose Adapter" Bottom Hose: Dayco 71217 - Perfect fit with my custom low mounted alternator. Looks OE. Heater Hoses: Dayco 80407 - This is a long straight hose with a 90 degree bend at one end. I used one for each hose, with the 90 degree bend at the heater box/valve. Plenty of length to reach the front of the engine. Reference: http://alteredz.com/cooling.htm

dr_hunt, thanks for that offer! I am afraid that my fuel system wouldn't be compatible with the alky though!!

The purpose is to keep the bypass from opening and passing unfiltered oil into the oil passages. The bypass is there to keep a plugged filter from blocking pressure (and volume) of oil to the oil passages. The OEs need to do this to keep losers that never change the oil filter from ruining the engines. It's fine to plug it, IMO, if you change the oil filter regularly. I even recommend it in those situations. It has nothing to do with creating higher oil pressure on an engine with a non-plugged filter. The only way it would increase oil pressure to the engine is if the filter is clogged/plugged.

If it will bolt to the crank of the SBC, I believe that's true. It seems the imbalance, 1-piece seal, and crank/flywheel bolt pattern go with one another, so if it bolts on, it should work, unless you have a non-stock crank/rod/piston setup installed that has a different balance (i.e., a balanced rotating assembly, versus the stock 86+ internal "imbalance")

I will go back and delete all the off topic posts about Mac and PC. Thanks, Careless

I really liked working with them too. I believe the guy I talked to was Don. Older guy that was very sharp, very good phone skills, absolute pleasure to work with! I thought about having them build a tank but it was 2 or 3 times as much as just buying the sump, which wasn't cheap either. If I didn't have a good tank to work with (one I got from synlubes (Doug Carrow) and hadn't installed before the accident) I would have had them build me one.

Tony, that's funny as hell! I did have problem with Eastwoods system coming loose and clogging all kinds of stuff up. It may have been user error, but I did everything the way I read them to be done in the directions. I ended up going to an intank sump - but not the kind that hangs down below the tank. I think that's unsightly and doesn't really fix the problem for EFI that well. I had Rock Valley Antique Auto Parts make me a correct height "Tuned Port Injection Sump Kit" http://www.rockvalleyantiqueautoparts.com/catalog/tune_port_info_and_kits.pdf Here it is: Note the vertical "slit" in the side of the "can" it's how fuel gets into the sump and out. They assured me this system has been tested on many vehicles and works well to keep the fuel in the sump. Since the fuel returns to the sump, I can imagine why. One concern is heated fuel returning to the sump and warming the fuel in the sump first. Tradeoff I suppose. Do you want no fuel or warm fuel? I cut a rectangular hole in the top of the tank for it, and mounted in the front-ish area of the tank. (sorry about the out-of-focus photo!) I used various fittings and 1/2" aluminum hard line from the outlet fitting (red plug in it) and fittings and 3/8" steel hard line from the return fitting. These lines run down in front of the tank and are secured to the now brazed shut stock supply and return lines on the front of the tank. From there I connected my existing return and supply hoses to my in line pump. I had the car at the body shop getting the rear end damage fixed, so this was a quick fix to just replace the tank with this one. I also sealed off all of the vent pipes on the tank. I will go back and put an intank pump in the place it was provided on the insert that goes into the sump when I move back to EFI. This made the stock sender not fit. I bent the arm for the sender around the sump, but it fluctuates wildly as I go around corners. A better solution would be to get one of their fuel sending units and install it in the top of the tank. I may go back and do that. While I did have the system running on the car, but using a piece of hose in place of the in-tank pump, I had no problems with my TBI setup gasping for fuel while going around corners hard even with 1/4 tank, like I used to have even with 1/2 tank or more with just the stock tank pickup. I'm very satisfied with this setup, other than the fuel sending unit, which I may rectify with one of their units and stiffening plates into the top of the tank at a later date. Just another way to skin the EFI cat!

When I bleed my McLeod hydraulic throw-out bearing, I have to just about REMOVE the bleed fitting and let it gravity bleed the air out a bit. Keep a close watch on the level in the master, as it will flow quickly through the lines and bearing hydraulics, and empty the cylinder and introduce more air there if you aren't careful. Once you get a good stream of fluid coming out of the bleeder line (with the bleeder removed), install it quickly, screw it in most of the way and bleed as normal. Again, gravity bleeding only at this point may be the best option, but a stroke or two at first to speed it along might be a good idea. Gravity bleeding means just let Gravity do the work. Less air is introduced into the fluid by cavitation and leaks in the MC, but this is really an issue more with brakes than a clutch system, IMO.

Thought about applying David Vizard's full return, parabolic stack entrance shape to the opening, instead of a flat entrance with a radius? I believe it's in his book "How to Build Horsepower, Volume 2 - Carbs & Intake Manifolds." But I can 't find my copy at the moment!!! I remember that with this entrance on the mouth of the "stack", the IR setup saw little loss in flow, and you could do away with length tuning. It's been a long time, and I may have this mixed up. I just remember it seemd like the thing to do if you couldn't run a total runner length that was optimal with a typical flared opening. Having the full radius on the lip of the opening of the flare (parabolic after that maybe?) minimized the loss, but letting the air NEXT to the opening come in easiest. A sharp edge at the flared opening (like the typical stacks you see on a lot of the very old long tube velocity stacks on Hilborn type V8 injector manifolds) is a flow loss. Sorry for the brain fade - but is anyone familiar with what I'm alluding to? I figure if you are CNCing the opening, just do it the best way for the air entering the TB as possible. I'll be looking for a cheap way to build these for the Hilborn injector I'm planning on using on my 400 cube SBC V8, since hood clearance is critical .

Maybe a quote from the Scoggin-Dickey site for the 86+ flywheel helps here:

Sure I did. Someone linked to it from the other flywheel thread, and I saw that there was some overgeneralizing information about 400 cranks, so I wanted to make a clarification. These threads get found from the search engine, and we should make sure that we always work to make the information correct, thorough, and up to date.

Except if the 383 (or 400 like mine) is built with an internally balanced 3.75" stroke crank. The stock 400 crank was not balanced, and used an "unbalanced" damper and flywheel. If you go to an aftermarket crank, it is usually cheaper to go an internally balanced crank/rods/piston assembly and get a "balanced" damper and flywheel, if starting from scratch.

This one: http://www.sdparts.com/product/14085720/1985EarlierSBCBBCNodularIronLightweightFlywheel1234in.aspx pointed out above, is only 15lb. Not SFI rated, but tested to 10,000 rpm. See my post about it in a related thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=97747 Wow, the one for the 86-up 1-pc seal engine is $309 at sdparts!!!!! The ebay price of $230 in that link speedracer gave is better, but, No thanks, I'd be looking for aftermarket for a light flywheel for the 1-pc seal engines! I run a scattershield (the new Sonic/Tilton one for 153 tooth flywheels): http://www.tiltonracing.com/content.php?page=feat1 so if it breaks, I am not too concerned. I have to have it resurfaced - there are a few heat spots on it that I need to have the speed shop/performance machine shop look at - I may be buying another one or an SFI rated aluminum one with a replaceable steel insert.

Thanks, Jon. I'll let you know when/if.

Wow, look out for hood clearance there!! Cool low-budget idea though.

Thanks, jt. How long of a period of time would you like to loan the 830 for? I will probably not have the engine ready for a few months, and would want to use it for at least a few months after that.

Thanks, Mike - I may just do that. I spoke with Don at FBO (4secondsflat.com). Don has been at this stuff for many decades. He independently suggested the 650 Mighty Demon mech. sec. He advised to use jet extenders and notched float. If I go BG, I will buy through him, if new.

The guy at BG, who seemed very knowledgable (didn't catch the name) suggested a Mighty 650 mechanical secondary. Saw no need for the annular boosters, due to light weight of car and manual trans. Interesting. He said it would flow upto 830cfm. I questioned at what depression, and he said at 1". He said that they name the carbs based on industry standard throttle bore size, but the way that the carb is machined (venturi entry, etc.) allows them to flow much more air than others. One thing that bothers me was that no questions were asked about the manifold I'd be using or the head flow. jt1 - what size is your "junk" engine - displacement? Cam?

Michael, thanks for the info. I am going to call and talk to the people at BG and Don at 4secondsflat.com and get into a discussion on this. I "read" that annular boosters are better at atomizing the mixture, and better at part throttle and idle.

Saylore, thanks for that input. Will these work well on a street application? The predator is kind of like a huge SU carb (variable venturi) - ahhh - my Z might have a V8 with a huge SU type carb. LOL One concern is that it probably won't fit under the hood with an air cleaner since I am using a Victor Jr. A Holley just barely fits there with a 3" high, 14" drop-base air cleaner.

Dr hunt - that looks like a great carb - I only wish I had a spare $1000 to buy one with!!! Forces and Mikelly - I agree - no Edelbrock for me - I'd have to buy all the tuning stuff anyway - not going that route. Thanks, all, for your feedback. I can see that the BG may be a good way to go. The Barry Grant Mighty with Annular boosters is about $550 at Jegs and others. The SS-830 Quick Fuel is only a bit less, $515. The Proform, which I believe has less tunability, is $450. Not a HUGE difference in prices, and they are all a bit different. Actually, if I am going to be looking at the Mighty Demon, the Quick Fuel Q or Professional series carbs are a closer match, and 6 to $700. I am leaning towards a BG Mighty Demon, probably an 850 with annular boosters. I just need to remember that I will have no choke . Maybe I can hire a gnome to sit on the fender and hold their hand over the inlet when the engine is cold, LOL. Seriously though, I have one of Holley's idle-up solenoids and I will just set it up with a switch so I can hold the rpm up at 1500 or 2000 rpm while it warms up.

I've searched and see that some people are using the Proform 750DP carb, others the BG carb. Anyone using a Quick Fuel carb? I also want some particular advice on carb size - the tradeoffs being having enough carb signal, enough to make power at and near redline, but also to have good drivability and therefore tunability. I have a 10.3:1 406 ci SBC, with Canfield 215 heads, 275/279@.020", 244/249@.050", .57/.577" lift, 112 LSA solid roller cam, running a Victor Jr intake. Desktop Dyno thinks this thing will be putting out 500+ hp. When this engine was together before with the stock 400 block (I'm assembling it now with a Dart block), the cam was quit mild. Hardly any lope, lots of low end torque. That was with TBI fuel injection using a 700cfm Holley TBI and a megasquirt. I'm going to start the engine out on a carb though, for several reasons. One is to be able to have the engine dyno'd easier, the other is to not melt it down during breaking with lean fuel maps, etc. and not having a big enough TBI (and not wanting to buy one, as I will move LATER to either a CrossRam Offy manifold with 2 670 TBIs or a Hilborn injector manifold converted to EFI). I need a carb. I have experience with Holleys, so I want to stay with that and not go down the learning path for another style carb (i.e., Quadrajet, Carter, Edelbrock, etc.) First, I don't want to go broke with a $600+ carb here. The application is a my 2800lb 240Z with a manual trans (G-force enhanced T-5 with 2.95 first gear) and 3.7:1 limited slip with 25" tires. A double pumper is wanted. Mostly street, some road race track days, a few drag runs. Drivability is very important. I'd like to have a choke, but that isn't paramount. I'd just make due with a throttle-up solenoid if I didn't have a choke. Calculators tell me a 750 to 900 cfm carb is needed. I've heard the typical 750DP holley flows more like 700cfm wet. So I wonder if I should look at an 830 carb. This is especially true I would think, if I went with annular boosters. One carb that comes to mind is the 5423020GC BG Mighty Demon, 825cfm, Annular boosters http://www.barrygrant.com/demon/default.aspx?page=... The other one I am looking at is the Quick Fuel SS-830 Super Street carb . It has an added benefit of a choke. Same with the Proform 850cfm Street Series carb. Of course, there is the Holley HP series stuff too, but the others above offer a good bit more tunability (replacable idle feed restrictions, some with tunable emulsion feeds and PVCRs. I imagine all of these carbs, even the Proform ones are pretty good pieces. IMO, with Holley you end up paying for the name, and get less tunability even though you are paying more. Any brands/models to stay away from? Thanks in advance.

That's not uncommon. You can even order bearings with different "ellipicity" or whatever if you ask for the right versions. One reason for this ellipicity is so that the edges of the bearing shells don't scrape the oil off the journal at high loading. That nice round hole that the rods have now becomes elliptical in the other direction (parallel to the beam) when the centrifugal forces start pulling on the rod, and the wider clearance across the parting line is there to be taken up as the rod deforms, so that the bearing inner surface is somewhat round in that state. If it started out round, it would pinch in at the parting line under load and the edge of the bearing shell would scrape the oil off of the journal.