pparaska

I believe the Odyssey is a better battery than the Optima, for the weight, life, deep cycle, extended "storage" use a lot of seasonal hot rods use. I just buy a cheap battery usually, but I am considering an Odyssey since the cheap batteries don't seem to tolerate my lax usage habits (long periods of non-use without a trickle charger). But I have a neighbor with a kit Cobra, a Cobra Mustang, and 4 HD motorcycles that get used ocassionally and seasonally. He used to replace batteries all the time and once he started using a battery tender on them they last for many years. So maybe I just need to change my habits

A damned good reason too!

As Sam Wainright said about plastics, ‘the biggest thing since radio.’ I agree - plastics can solve many problems a metal can't. I did my masters thesis on carbon reinforced epoxy "plastics" : http://ntrs.nasa.gov/search.jsp?R=741284&id=1&qs=Ntt%3Dparaska%257C19930015723%26Ntk%3DAuthorList%7CDocumentID%26Ntx%3Dmode%2520matchall%7Cmode%2520matchall%26N%3D4294967262%2B269%26Ns%3DHarvestDate%257C0 Fiber reinforced materials are great for a lot of things, especially when specific strength (strength per kg) or specific stiffness (stiffness per kg) is important. It can be a good thermal and electrical isolator too, relative to metals (well, carbon is not such a hot electrical insolator!!!). The intake manifold is a great application, as you can mold it to net shape and surface texture, and it is less thermally conductive compared to Aluminum. But I bet 1/100th of the carbon fiber used in the world is used for real functional purposes. It seems the bling masters think that CF parts need to be pimped onto their ride for them to have a "fast" car. I suppose being well versed in composite structures design makes me cringe to see it used as a "surface treatment" only. For example, CF hoods, CF interior parts, etc. when the reason the person bought it was only for the look, not the weight savings of strength/stiffness per kg attributes. It seems even a thermal barrier coated plastic intake would be a good idea. And coat the runners inside as well, to keep the temp of the material (although lower than an AL piece) from radiating into the flow stream. Probably a really small effect though.

Good point on the drain back issue. I guess I should just not be lazy and be happy with a quick and easy way to drain it into something, and maybe a sight tube on the side of it?

I'd love to see what you come up with for a catch can. I need on my Z and my Galant VR-4. Something small would be cool, and something that drains back to the pan would also be nice. I know, I'd need to provide a path for that back into the pan.

I'm not sure what you mean by the higher amp relay giving the higher speed. The higher speed comes from giving sufficient voltage and current to the high speed winding in the motor on the fan. The high amperage rated relay just allows a sufficient amount of current to get to the high speed winding in the motor. Hope that helps.

It's been quite a while since I got wood just looking at a car - with no females in the photo!!! That about says it!

Probe makes a 383 and a 400 SRS forged piston for 6.00" rods that have the pin below the oil ring groove, not in it: 383: Flat tops: part number 12337-xxx Dished (8cc): part number 13719-xxx http://www.probeindustries.com/Pistons/Pistons_SRS/Chevrolet/Chev_350.htm 400: Flat tops: part number 12339-xxx Dished (4.8cc): part number 12341-xxx The thing I like about these is that they don't put the pin up into the oil scraper ring groove. They do this by using a 1/8" oil scraper ring and 1/16" top and second rings. Whether these are too thin to be good on the street, I am not sure. But they spec 0.002 to 0.003" piston to bore clearance for NA applications and 0.003-0.004" for forced induction. Pretty tight, but the piston is very short and light. But the rock is not horrible either. I don't recall the numbers but they didn't seem to rock too much - hopefully the oil control and compression seal is reliable.

For a Gen I SBC, here's some info on the blowproof bellhousing I'm using and the hydraulic TO bearing for it: http://forums.hybridz.org/showpost.php?p=613577&postcount=21 Not cheap!

Yes, that would work. Sorry for my confusion.

Woah. Those switches can't handle the amperages of the fan. You need a relay circuit that will turn the fans off and on. And they need to control the two speeds exclusively. Meaning when the higher temp switch sends the signal to the high speed relay, you need to make sure the low speed relay is turned off, so that the low speed wire to the fan is not sending current to the low speed winding in the fan motor. That's what this thread is all about. Make sure you go back and read about the circuits for this.

I like it. I had thought of doing that years ago, a lower temp switch for low speed and a higher temp one for high speed.

Umm. There's a car in the picture? But I really like the front end treatment - oh - the car's too! No, seriously, the grill and bumperless look really came off well on the car, and I like the color too!

Awesome execution!!!! I've been through the damned leaking head stud thing. I'll never user studs again on a SBC head, except for the 406 I'm building with the Dart Sportsman block which has dry (blind) head bolt holes! Here is a thread about Scottie-GNZ's and my and other's experiences with head studs leaking: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=76947

Steeltoad, I understand the line of thinking, but I'd like to see some data to back up the gut feel.

Let me throw this out for comment. I'm pretty sure what I'm saying is correct, but if not, I would love to learn more! Note that the cheaper interferometers assume that the surface has an emissivity of about 0.95 or so. The ceramic/metallic coatings have emissivities of 0.15 to about 0.3, or there abouts. So if it is assuming 0.95, and doing the calculations from the incident IR energy entering the detector using the assumed 0.95 emissivity to get surface temperatures internally using 0.95 for the emissivity, the indicated surface temperature will be misleading. (see http://www.mikroninfrared.com/mikron_university/IR_Sensor_Construction.pdf) If the emissivity is substantially lower than 0.6, then the error will cause the indicated temperature to be lower than the actual surface temperature. And that's the beauty of the coatings, actually. The are less emissive, and radiate less than most materials. That property will also fool a single color interferometer. You really need a two color inferometer to know the true surface temperature for such materials.

Thanks, Davy. I'm doing well. Just some bumps in the road ahead, nothing earth shattering. Afterall, half of those of us that get hitched, get unhitched! LOL

Yeah, I didn't know about the Galant VR-4 until after I had bought my Eclipse GSX new in late 91. Looking back even then I thought I would have rather had the VR-4. It was really quite a car for it's time and the money. Heck, it's still pretty cool. It looks like the title/registration thing will work out in the next few days. The previous owner is working with someone to get things straight. I imagine I will have tags by Saturday. The body is very straight except for a few small dents on the hood, which I plan on getting taken care of. It needs a buff job. The interior is pretty good, needs some mats, cleaning, etc. I ordered a Lotek 2 gage A-pillar pod and will get a boost and oil pressure gage (none in the dash - just an idiot light!!!). I will be putting my manual boost controller on it (a spring-ball type) from the Eclipse GSX this weekend. I am really hoping this will fix it or we will find the timing belt off by a tooth or something. The mechanic (who has done MANY of these engines) said the cylinders looked great, and he went through the head carefully. He said that the turbo had very little axle play also. Crossing my fingers that it's just a boost controller issue. The rest of the car seems tight. I'm looking forward to getting used to it, once the power shows up!

Joe (rags), yes, that ugly beast that I was behind the wheel of (notice I didn't say "drove") around Watkins Glen (because the Z couldn't make the trip) is now in the hands of the mechanic that put the Galant on the road. Mike - I hope it's sooner than later! I just got back from the DMV. The guy I bought it from never titled it, so I'm having problems- I can't get tags/registration. Ugh. He says he can get it worked out - I wonder. These people that buy a car, never title, register or insure it sure do make it tough for the people that are stupid enough to buy it from them!

A new G-Force T-5 is $2000, but I'd upgrade to the "9310 Case Hard High Nickel Steel Alloy" mainshaft for another $335. http://www.g-forcetransmissions.com/pdfs/PricingT-5.pdf The TKOs are about $2425: http://www.ddperformance.com/t56__6_speed%20transmissions.htm

I'll post some later, it's filthy. I got it with a busted balance belt that fell into the timing belt and bent the intake valves. It ended up needing exhaust, front rotors, a few other things and an A/C compressor (still need to fix that). It has 149,000 miles on it. I got it in that condition for $3K, and put $1485 plus a trade of my Eclipse GSX (with a good engine!!!) to have it put on the road. I may be getting the guy to swap the engines if this one turns out to be as lame as it seems after going over it, boost controller, etc. In my opinion, this is not an exciting car to look at. But if I can bring the cornering and power to where my slightly modded Eclipse GSX was, I'll be satisfied. It need the power issue worked out, A/C fixed, and some wheels and tires. Paint is not bad, nor is the interior.

Give that man a Cigarrrrrrr!!! 1991 Galant VR-4 number 1475 of 2000 Belize Green Metallic Ugh - the body color wheels are hideous and skinny! Need to rectify that as soon as some $$$ appear.

Good guess, but wrong manufacturer.

On my way TO the office "Holiday" party in Dec 2006, I swerved for an idiot in the oncoming lane, hit the loose stuff on the shoulder and took a ride into the trees and up the beginning of the guard rail. Don't worry - I was not in the Z, just the only car I ever bought new - a 92 Eclipse GSX. No biggie - it had suspension "issues", a leaking exhaust, tires that needed to be replaced, peeling clearcoat. Ugliest car in the work parking lot! But still gave many a big surprise if they tried to drag or out corner me!! I just picked up it's replacement. It's my first "rare" car, and my new daily driver (got to get the A/C working though!!!) What came from the factory with the following? 4 doors 4 cylinders 4 wheel steering 4-wheel disk brakes with anti-lock feature (two-channel) 4 wheel independent suspension 4 CV shafts 4 color-keyed cast aluminum alloy wheels (8-spoke) 4 figure used car price (before the decimal point) 16 valves 5 forward, driver selectable gears 1 turbo a factory dash plate with a 4 digit number a "/" and another 4 digit number was built for homologation for rally racing ...and looks like your grandmother's grocery-getter? It's not the E36 M3, WRX STI, or EVO that I want, but that will have to wait until I don't have to give away half of what I own, if you know what I mean... Seemed pretty lame on power for what it is supposed to be (compared to my Eclipse GSX with a boost controller) when I drove it home tonight - it just had the head rebuilt and new timing belt, etc installed. I hope it got done right! I'm hoping the boost controller will bring the performance level up.

Plus, with the correct gearing, the .50 overdrive in many of the T-56s is not needed and just extra weight and complexity.