pparaska

The weight difference is minimal between .065 and the thicker gages of wall available. I'd not go below about .08", personally, and might go thicker to .095" or so. You're trading a few pounds here, and the thickness has a large influence on stiffness. Strength is not really a concern, any of the thicknesses available are strong enough, in my guestimation.

Mike - what kind of paint is that on the engine compartment sheetmetal? I'm pondering scuffing the blue on my engine compartment and doing something like that. Is it tough? POR-15 maybe?

Grumpyvette suggested this cam for my 406, but I went nuts and did a solid tightlash roller instead. I had the cam purchased already, sold it to Glenn McCoy, who had it in is 11:1 383 with trickflow heads, performer rpm intake, 800 Edelbrock. It was a streetable cam in is car WITH A TH350 TRANS. With a manual it would have been fine, better even. It was NOT a mileage setup, with no overdrive. The engine had a bad hone on the cylinders and burned a lot of oil and pinged alot. Glenn is rebuilding it now with a bit less compression, and using a different cam, but we agreed that cam would have been fine to use too - Glenn was just chasing the optimum cam, trying to follow Vizard's overlap and LSA-vs-Displacement method, so the 112 LSA didn't fit. But that's splitting hairs - the 114681 cam is a fine dual purpose cam in a 383 or larger engine, IMO.

I'd love to take you up on it - way too much going on right now to be there though - my mind could use some friend and Z time though! Thanks!

When I was doing all the work on the front frame rails, I used 6 jack stands, and shimmed between them and the car to keep everything lined up. I also took measurements across, back, down to the floor, diagonal, etc. to document the car's suspension pickup points, and a few other ones like the top of the rail, etc. before cutting. It takes a bunch of time, but it's the next best thing to building a jig. Cheers,

Some of us old originals still lurk from time to time My V8Z is back in the body shop, getting the repair repaired. No biggie, but they are treating me right - no charge and doing it right. Still a great forum site - best I know of!!!

Wow - glad to see you are getting it fixed up for Jim. I wish I lived closer to just drop by and give you a hand!

http://alteredz.com/structuralmods.htm

I have one of the Offy cross rams and was thinking of putting 2 670cfm 2bbl TBIs on it. I'm wondering if the fact that the vacuum signal isn't needed for the TBIs, if the power band would come down a bit. I'd be using it on a 406 with a solid roller that is close to the 114681 in specs.

Sweet! Great job - magazine material dude!

Freaking beautiful car - just catching up but wanted to send my props!

Thanks for that info - I have the max backspacing stuff on my website too, for short coilovers anyway. Have a good time!

Bob - I'll second the question above - What are the wheels? Brand, model, size? I'm thinking CCW or Forgeline.

Bob, that thing is just georgeous - just goes to show you that a well integrated Gnose and flair set will make the car look mean and as if it was designed that way to begin with - not an afterthought. Incredible! (The next time someone starts telling me how much they love bolt-on overfenders, I will point them to your photos so they can see what well integrated and sculpted flairs look like!)

While it is true that the 280Z chassis is probably stiffer and stronger in some aspects, much of this can be overshadowed if you stiffen a 240Z. My 73 has welded in sub frame connectors and a roll bar that ties in the floor behind the seats, the tunnel, and the rear strut towers. Not a scientific measure, but a long time ITS racer was very impressed with the solid feel of my V8 Z after I gave him a spirited ride. Of course, you can do the same to a 280Z body, but the entire car will be heavier in both cases. If a stiffened 240Z is good enough, you end up with a lighter vehicle that may well be "good enough" from a strength/stiffness standpoint. I drive my car very hard, take it to track days and it has no signs of any damage from the cornering, braking or acceleration loads with Toyo RA-1s, Wilwood racing brakes and a 327 with roughly 350crank hp or more.

We should ask Carl (who owns Zhome.com) if it'd be ok to copy some of the stuff he has on that site. It's a very good place to look for this type of info. Carl is a real stickler about making sure that the data on that site is correct. Anyway, these links may help: http://zhome.com/History/timeline.html http://zhome.com/History/DesignChanges.htm http://zhome.com/History/zcarperf.html

The new LSX block can go to something like 470 cubes in the tall deck form, maybe 511cubes? But the block also weighs 225 lbs in cast iron. They are considering an aluminum version. My Dart Sportsman old style block is 205 lbs. But the LSX iron block is made to go to 2000hp in drag use. I presume an aluminum LSX block would be all anyone would need in a Z besides a full pro mod car, IMO. A few opinions, maybe rules of thumb? : I do think Dragon and Mike hit something here - an engine is an engine. With a decent foundation (block) you can make real high power per cube, whether winding it up or boosting it. A strong block will weigh more than a weak one - hardly any of the OEs make weak blocks for their performance engines. These things are CADded out for strength, weight, NVH optimization reasons. If it's capable of a lot higher power than in stock form, then it was developed with racing in mind, most likely. Look at the Supra engines, the DSM engine, etc. So if you want to go beyond what the OE envisioned for ultimate power out of a block, you will be looking for bandaids (girdles, etc.) or an aftermarket or racing OE block. Or add a boost system (turbo or blower) and you add weight, and hope that the block can withstand it too. It does seem many turbo engine blocks can handle quite a bit more than stock boost and power levels. Moreso than the NA block offerings from the OEs?

The new GMPP LSX block has enlarged bay-to-bay windage ports in the block, like the LS7 does. An article (Popular Hotrodding?) said that without the ports in the block it wouldn't rev past something like 6000. Once they added the ports it went something like 7200 or more rpm. I'm thinking this may be the problem with oil pushing out of the LS motors. Anyone care to comment? If that's the case, I'd think a stock LS block without the ports could be modified (drill and tap block, add fittings, tubing, etc.) to help wit hthe bay-to-bay breathing issues.

See my site for more details and pictures: http://AlteredZ.com Body Mods: * 70-72 front bumper, dechromed and painted body color. 70-72 front bumber mounting brackets used. * 70-73 rear bumper center section used, 3/4" taken out of for/aft depth of center section, added short extensions to extend to quarter panel, dechromed, painted body color. Custom heavy duty mounting brackets and under-bumper reinforcement. * 280Z quarter panels used to remove indent for stock bumper extensions. 280Z bumper mount hole filled. * Xenon Urethane Front Air Dam (PN 3124), reinforced in center to eliminate drooping. * 3 slats from another 240Z grill added to bottom of 73 grill to help fill opening under bumper and help provide A/C condensor and radiator protection. * Z432 rear spoiler * 280ZX side marker lights * European rear turn signal housings * All emblems removed, holes welded shut, except C-pillar vent emblem * Door handles dechromed and painted body color * Toyota Tercel DX (1995-1997) side view mirrors on custom brackets attached to door window frame and squeege strip moulding. http://alteredz.com/TercelMirrorMounting.htm * Rear fender lips rolled for tire clearance * The color used is from the 95 to 97 Audi A4, Color name: Europe Blue Mica. Color Code: LZ5T. (Be careful, Audi used the same paint color name for the later (98 and newer), but it's a lighter blue, but not as nice looking IMO. The paint code for that color is also close to the earlier, nicer color, LZ5K, not LZ5T as used on my car.) * Window trim, door window frames, front and rear window gasket stainless trim, C-pillar vent emblem all powdercoated semi-flat black. Engine Info: (listed in chronological order of use in the car) http://alteredz.com/mychoiceV8.htm My Current Small Block Chevy V8 engine for the Z - 400 Chevy with Dart Block Third iteration on the 400. The original 400 build didn't last long, I ran it WOT and it went lean and a sleeve in #6 cylinder warped and compression was lost. The second build scuffed one of the Probe SRS pistons due to overheating. * The 400 Specs: http://alteredz.com/EngineInfo.htm - Dart Sportsman Block - 4.125" bore dia., bored out to 4.155" - Scat 9000 383, (6.0" rod) crank (PN 9-350-3750-6000), 3.750" Stroke x 6.000" x 2.100" Rod - Lightweight - Internal Balance - SRP 14cc dished forged pistons- JE moly 0.035" oversize rings custom gapped to 0.024". - 5140 I beam 6" connecting rods, ARP bolts - ARP main studs, head studs - Canfield 215cc intake port, 65cc chamber Aluminum 23 degree heads (PN 23-550), 2.08/1.60 valves, Bowl ported (exhaust only) - (Click here for quoted, out-of-box, and ported (exhaust) flow data) - Comp Cams Pro Magnum 7/16" 1.52:1 ratio steel roller rockers. 7/16" screw in studs and guide plates. - This combination gives about 10.3:1 compression ratio. - Cam Motion PN 2522-2522-05-4 Solid Roller "Low Lash" Camshaft : 281/281 Advertised Duration, .573"/.573" lift (1.5:1), 251/251 @ 0.050" tappet lift, 105 degrees lobe separation, Isky Redzone lifters with pressurized roller oiling, Cloyes True Roller timing set, Scoggin-Dickey / Bo Laws 3 piece timing cover (PN SD60004) - Professional Products Crosswind dual plane intake manifold (Edelbrock RPM airgap copy) - Holley 0-80511 830HP carb with annular boosters, 1/2 divided wood spacer. - MSD E-curve distributor, Blaster II coil, MSD 8.5mm Super Conductor Plug Wires. - Sanderson CC5/JagsThatRun.com DAT-402C D-port Angle Plug Block Hugger Headers, 1-5/8". Stainless Steel/Ceramic coated (along with most of the entire exhaust system ) - Melling High Pressure SB pump, Corvette 6 qt oil pan, System 1 one quart filter. - Based on the above data (assuming the small tube headers and mufflers), Desktop Dyno 2000 gives the following estimate: 510 lbft @ 4400 rpm 500hp @ 5800 rpm. If it really puts out 85% of that, I'd be more than satisfied! My FIRST V8 for the Z - 327 Chevy with XS274S-10 camshaft [update: I used this engine after I first built it for about 10K miles. It developed a rod knock, and I removed it and swapped in the 400. The 400 went south due to me running it at WOT and it going lean - a sleeve in a cylinders warped and I lost compression there. So I rebuilt and blueprinted the 327 again, which involved finding another forged OE crank (didn't even need to be turned!) and a couple of replacement OE rods and put it back in and ran it for a few thousand miles, until I removed the engine and trans in order to sell the trans to a friend. I sold the 327, mostly so that I could not put it back in, but build the 400 again!!!] * I had seen and driven hopped up and Turbo'd L6 240 Z's. Mine was stock engined (although it had 72 SU's and 2-1/2" exhaust.) My desire for the low end torque I grew up with (70 Camaro with a warmed over 327), and the drivability issues (having to be in the right gear - O.K., I'm lazy) and cost of hopped up L6's made the decision for considerably more displacement. For the street, I just like normally aspirated high displacement engines. I have had a 92 Eclipse GSX and a 1991 Galant VR-4, both which I modded to run at 15psi, and although they were/are fun to drive, I don't like having to be in the right gear whenever I want to accelerate. I keep the revs low unless I'm really concentrating on going fast and have the opportunity to. High revs draw attention and I don't like that. * I know how to work on Chevy small block V8's, and had a good background in hopping them up. When I did the V8 conversion the first time with the 327, I had some nice Chevy heads, etc. on hand... * The Chevy small block may be heavier than say a Ford small block, and the distributor placement may not be as good, but I'm not particularly well versed in the Blue Oval, nor the Mopar stuff for that matter. Plus the fact that the JTR manual is done for the Chevy - he's already done a lot of the engineering. * The after market for the Chevy is larger, although the Ford small block is getting quite a bit better in the past 15 years or so since I built my 327. * Displacement? Sure the 350 is popular, as is the 383. I figured that a 327 built slightly warmed over (good throttle response from 1500, top usable rpm at 6000) would have enough torque. * The 327 Specs: http://alteredz.com/EngineInfo.htm - 1962 327 block and forged steel crank. (All small journal 327s (62-67) had forged cranks.) Crank bore align honed and cylinders bored 0.030" over. Std/Std crank with H series Clevite bearings. - TRW forged flat top pistons. Speed Pro 0.035" oversize rings custom gapped to 0.016". Stock rods Mag'd, resized w/ SPS bolts. All deck heights within 0.002" of 0.015" below deck by machining block deck and some piston heads. (I got pretty particular there.) 0.019" steel shim head gaskets. Manley head bolts. - 1964 "461" casting "double hump" or "Fuelie" heads. Cc'd at 66 cc's. 2.02"/1.60" valves, 3 angle valve job, Isky dual valve springs. Port matched, bowl ported. Isky heavy duty valve springs, retainers. Comp Cams hardened pushrods and Pro Magnum 7/16" 1.5 ratio steel roller rockers. 7/16" screw in studs and guide plates. - This combination gives about 9.7:1 compression ratio. - Comp Cams (XS274S-10, pn 12-677-4) 274/280 deg. adv. duration (236/242 deg @ 0.050") 0.510/0.501" lift, 110 deg. LSA, Extreme Solid Flat Tappet Cam (my age is showing ). - Holley "Contender" (pn 300-36) hi-rise dual plane intake manifold, port matched. (Much like the original LT-1 intake.) Holley "contends" that it's good from idle to 7200 rpm. That's pretty broad. - Holley 650 Double Pumper 4bbl carb (List 4777). - Recurved HEI distributor with Crossfire Cap, HEI BruteThunder Coil, MSD Soft Touch Rev Limiter, MSD 8.5mm Super Conductor Plug Wires, Accel 734 plugs. - Hooker Block Hugger Headers. I was thinking about header wrap, but decided to go with metallic ceramic coating to keep the heat down in the engine compartment, and next to the brake lines and wiring. I had them Stainless Steel/Ceramic coated (along with most of the entire exhaust system ). - Melling High Pressure SB pump, Corvette shallow 6 qt pan and pickup, Milodon Diamond Stripper windage tray, System 1 one quart filter. - Based on Desktop Dyno 2000, with ported 461 head flow numbers, etc., the estimate is 386lbft@4000 / 388lbft@4500rpm, 378hp@5500rpm / 377hp@6000rpm. The car turned a 12.74 second 110.4 mph 1/4, and the mph points to about 375 for a 3000lb car/driver combo. Transmission Info: http://alteredz.com/mychoicetranny.htm http://alteredz.com/TremecInfo.htm * Manual Transmission versus Automatic: I chose Manual. I just have a problem with automatic sports cars. I know the auto is quick in drag racing, and probably safer when driving spiritedly (two hands on the wheel, and all that). Now a hydraulically operated clutched manual with a computer controlled automatic mode and a paddle mode would be best, but that's bucks. * A friend who's done quite a few V8 Z's suggested a Tremec 5spd. A little more money than a new WC T-5 with the Ford durability upgrades, but stronger (possibly). Unfortunately, it's also bigger on top and 20lbs heavier. Recently, discussions with Jim Biondo have swayed me that a WC T-5 built with all the Ford upgrades might be strong enough. He is running one and is pumping out over 500 hp/lb-ft. But then again, he has less than 5000 miles on the combination. * At the time, Tremec had two versions; the TR3550 (425 lbft capacity) and the TKO (489 lbft). I chose the TR3550. It's the same one that Ford uses in the Cobra R Mustang. * As of the Spring of 2007, I removed the Tremec and sold it to the same friend that suggested it in the first place . I had G-Force rebuild a busted WC F-body T-5 with the 9310 gearset and shafts and it was installed behind the second and third iterations of the 406. Exhaust System: http://alteredz.com/exhaust.htm * 327: Hooker 2100 Block Hugger Headers, 1-5/8" Primary, 2-1/2" Collector * 406: Sanderson CC5/JagsThatRun.com DAT-402C D-port Angle Plug Block Hugger Headers, 1-5/8" Primary, 2-1/2" Collector * 2-1/2" custom mandrel bent duals, with 2-1/2" Dr. Gas X-pipe, just behind the transmission. * Dynomax Super Turbo Hemi Mufflers: 4 1/4 in. x 9 3/4 in. oval, 2-1/2" center inlet - 2-1/2" offset outlet Differential and Rear driveline Info: http://alteredz.com/drivelinemods.htm * 88 300ZX Turbo Limited Slip, 3.700:1 R200 differential * Ron Tyler front mount * stock R200 mustache bar, cut 0.3" out of the top of the top polyurethane bushing, and kept the supplied top large steel washer out of the setup. In all, this raised the rear of the differential by about 0.45" over using the polyurethane bushing kit as supplied. * 280ZX Turbo CV-joint half shafts with custom adapter for stub axle companion flanges. * 280Z stub axles, 1/2" ARP studs Wheels and Tires: http://alteredz.com/wheelstires.htm * Wheels: 17x8.5 and 17x9 5 spoke light alloy wheels (From WRD, which is no longer in business). The backspacing on the front wheels is 142mm and the backspacing for the rear is 149mm. * Tires: Toyo Proxes RA-1s installed, 235/45-17 front and 255/40-17 rear. I left them with the 6/32 thread depth. Brakes: http://alteredz.com/brakemods.htm * Master Cylinder: 1979-81 280ZX Master Cylinder (early version with 2 separate resevoirs) * Hard and Soft Lines: Classic Tube Stainless Steel hard lines throughout. Russell Performance "Street legal" braided Stainless Steel hoses (P/N 8655) (sourced from Summit Racing) * Proportioning Valve: Stainless Steel Brakes adjustable proportioning valve (sourced from Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies), on transmission tunnel, under knee. * Lock Resistant Brake System: Stewart Components Lock resistant Brake System (LBS) damper installed just forward of rear splitter fitting over differential. * Front Brakes: Arizona Z Car Competition Front Brake Kit: - All alloy aluminum four piston calipers, stainless steel pistons, - 11.5 inch diameter vented rotors 1.25 inch thick - Billet T-6 aluminum rotor center. * Rear Brakes: Arizona Z Car Competition Rear Brake Kit: (old version) - All alloy aluminum four piston calipers, stainless steel pistons, - 11.44 inch diameter .35 thick lightweight solid rotor - Aluminum caliper bracket with threaded steel inserts. Suspension: http://alteredz.com/suspensionmods.htm * Stock 240Z strut housings, shortened by 1-1/2" front and rear * Carrera 2-1/2" ID coilover kits - 10"x225lb/in front, 8"x250lb/in rear, * Stock 240Z strut top cushions and spring seats - seat modified with muffler tubing welded in center for centering 2-1/2" spring. * Tokico Illumina strut cartridges (240Z front cartridge used in shortened rear strut housing, VW Rabbit front strut cartridge used in shortened front strut housing). * 7/8" (280Z) front anti-sway bar with polyurethane bushings. No rear bar. * Polyurethane bushings at inner front control arm pivot, inner and outer rear control arm pivots. * Adjustable caster kit at front, using polyurethane bushings. * Inner front control arm pickup point on cross member modified for separate vertical and horizontal adjustability to fine tune bumpsteer, camber. * Strut top cushion mounting holes in body slotted for maximum negative camber adjustability. * 3/4" Aluminum strut housing -to- steering arm spacers * Steering: - Short Nissan steering arms - Hard rubber steering rack bushings - Nylon steering coupler Structural Repairs and Modifications: http://alteredz.com/structuralmods.htm * Custom replacement engine frame rails out of 2.5"x2.5", .093" wall square steel tubing. I put a pocket in the sides for the crossmember attachment, narrowed them at the front, and put a sturdy mount for the swaybar. * Custom subframe connectors welded in to replace stock hat stiffener below floor. Connects to engine frame rails, T/C bracket, Firewall reinforcement. * Custom 18 gage Steel Floor replacements. Performance Data: Best Run: [With the 1st build 327 engine with XS274S-10 cam:] I now have Toyo RA-1s on the car (235/45-17 and 255/40-17). As of 11/30/03, my best run yet: 60 foot: 1.945 (Still have trouble w/ traction) 1/8 mile: 8.272 @ 86.66 MPH 1/4 mile: 12.784 @ 110.43 MPH On VIR road course, with the 400 in it's third and present iteration, several times I would enter the back straight from a 20 mph roll right behind a friend's Ford GT, I kept right on his bumper until I lifted at about 140mph due to the car vibrating too much due to tire imbalance.

Guys, I've looked around a bit in the forum and can't find anything really suitable for an FAQ submition to the FAQ forum. Maybe I just missed something. Has anyone done a good FAQ writeup (see some of the ones in the FAQ forum for an example, like the L6 turbo swap one, etc.) to do the SBF into a Z?

I like the G-force T-5 option too. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=110724&highlight=G-Force+T-5 There's a guy here that had a supercharged 4.3 in a Z with a Aftermarket T-56, then went to a V8. I think I got that right. His handle here is "John Scott" http://forums.hybridz.org/member.php?u=7813

Dr_hunt - you're talking about the difference between static and dynamic friction. If the bolt is tight enough that you can't break the static friction of the threads/bolthead/head interfaces, then you'd never know that the torque while turning the fastener is actually lower then where you are statically. A bolt that isn't turning and has 65 ftlbs of torque on it's head will probably be less stretched (and impart less clamping force, what we should care about) than a bolt that is brought to 65 ftlbs of torque while it's turning. To let it turn while you tighten it, you need to loosen it a bit. I wouldn't loosen it much though! Just enough to let the bolt turn to get the torque reading right as you tighten it while it's turning. I personally don't own a click type torque wrench any more - for just the reason you list. Plus I don't like to be guessing if it's still calibrated or not. A beam type wrench will be close to it's original calibration unless the surface of the beam gets nicked, gouged, rusted, etc. or the pointer gets bent. I always zero the pointer (bend the thing!) before using it, or just adjust my torque reading to compensate if it's just a bit off.

Be careful with head studs is the first caution for you. Since you have two sets of threads per fastener to settle, one in the block, one at the stud/nut, you should be aware that some settling may occur, and retorqing is advised, from what I've read and experienced. I know, it's a pain, as you have to pull the headers off the engine to do a retorque. Also, I found the combination of MLS type gaskets and head studs may even increase the need to retorque. You have more internal gasket interfaces with the MLS gasket, and this can mean that you need to retorque because of this alone. Check out this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=340135

Interesting idea! I like the out of the box thinking! So you'd not use the end sheetmetal plate on the CV, and use a longer spring? Or just use the stock one and stretch it?

Jon, great article!!!!! I'd like to AGAIN point out the benefits of the Ron Tyler Diff Mount. One of these is essential to getting the low u-joint angles in the driveshaft with a JTR V8 install: Pros: - It isn't solid, so you get vibration isolation ALL THE TIME. - It allows the front of the differential to be lowered so that the minimum and acceptable driveshaft u-joint angles can be obtained for a JTR V8 swap. - It allows you to modifiy/partially remove the front diff crossmember for mor exhaust clearance. - It bolts right in (in most cases). Cons: - It requires welding. - It may take some massaging to fit into certain early 240Zs? So it may be best to build it on the car. - It uses no Nissan Parts? LOL Just thought you might want to edit your FAQ to point this out, especially the second bullet under "Pros" Cheers,