pparaska

good idea. The issue is unless you have many years of experience porting heads, just going in and doing things to the port that you might think will help may not provide the returns in flow you desire, provide little improvement, or provide improvement at some lifts and not others. Here's an idea: Hegelson (sp?) makes 2-dimensional templates for porting production SBC heads that the novice can use to get things like short side radius, etc. in a good ballpark of what's important as far as changes to make and for checking. I've seen these talked about in David Vizards book on porting SBC heads, if you want further info. If you find your porting is advantageous after the before/after testing, you could use a similar method of making some templates so that you could get close to duplicating the porting in the other ports. The key would be where make the templates (where in the port are the changes you've made most advantageous). BTW, I', wondering if making the center wall beginning very sharp would help things.

The "auxilliary relay" (the third one, so to speak) is functioning as an exclusive OR switch, so that only one relay (high or low speed) is energized at one time (or neither, but never both). If the Taurus 2 spd fan uses the same motor as the Mustang GT (1998 or so) 2 spd fan, like I have, the high speed pulls about 35 amps, the low speed about 20 amps. I measured this on my setup, with a fully charged battery, but the engine wasn't ready to run at that time. I used 2 VF4 automotive relays (typical 1" sqaure cube relay that you see everywhere in 90s cars) in parallel for the high speed function, since they are really rated at 30-40 amps depending on the design and model. I did this because I felt that 35 amps was just a bit much to ask of the relay. The GT mustang uses a relay that is internal to the fan control unit. Not sure what is in there, but the fuse for the fan is 60amps. I found this 80amp automotive relay that would be a good choice for the high speed part of the circuit, but it's only SPST. But that's all that's needed for Larry's circuit anyway: http://www.newark.com/30M9206/electromechanical-industrial-control/product.us0?sku=DURAKOOL-DG85C-8021-76-1012 You'd have to source the socket and terminals for the socket though. These use 3/8" terminals for the switched part. Here's another available 70Aamp relay: http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=mTeSeKeuVA6HHc5cJinlYg%3d%3d I'm guessing that this has the same terminal configuration as the VF7 relay below, and the sockets terminals would interchange. There USED TO BE (not sure if it's still available) a VF7 relay that looks the same as the VF4 relay, except uses 3/8" wide flat blade connector tangs for the 30 and 87 (switched) terminals. You can find the VF7 really pretty easily online, but finding the sockets and crimp connectors for them is a bit difficult. That'd be another option. VF7 relays: http://www.newark.com/NewarkWebCommerce/newark/en_US/endecaSearch/partDetail.jsp?SKU=94F6087&N=0# (They have the specs wrong on their online catalog. Click the link to the spec sheet to see it's actual specs) Here is the harness plug (plastic part, holds the female spade terminals): http://www.newark.com/NewarkWebCommerce/newark/en_US/endecaSearch/partDetail.jsp?SKU=90F8248&N=0 Then you need some .250" terminals for the plug (85 and 86, coil terminals): http://www.newark.com/NewarkWebCommerce/newark/en_US/endecaSearch/partDetail.jsp?SKU=33B9009&N=0 And some .375" terminals for the plug (30 and 87, switched terminals): http://www.newark.com/NewarkWebCommerce/newark/en_US/endecaSearch/partDetail.jsp?SKU=50F1000&N=0 There are surely other relays, etc., including the Volvo JY part JTR recommends.

Did you get it flowed beforehand? Getting it flowed afterwards?

Look here: http://alteredz.com/firstdrive.html I had all the trim for the windows powdercoated semi-gloss black; This includes: -the shiny trim in the front and rear glass gaskets (to hide it so it all looked like it was gasket). -door window frames -1/4 window frames -drip molding above doors -Z circle emblem over vent in 1/4 sail panel I painted the trim piece at the top of the door skin with black trim paint on the driver's side and used wide electrical tape to cover the one on the passenger side (cheesy, I know, but I was in a hurry to get the side mirror on). You could have it all painted too, if you were to prep it well, but that can be tricky. It's all stainless steel, not chromed steel.

Guys, I'm really sorry, I split this thread to keep the hosting and search issues separate, and then Tim240Z saw identical threads and merged them. I saw that, and thought I was deleting posts in one of them and was going to go back and delete the irrevelant posts in the other copy I made ,but then found it was gone. So all the stuff about searching is gone for good. Sorry, two moderators working on the same thread at the same time and we didn't know what the other was doing. Apologies, Pete

Tough one. I like the tunability of the stock GN motor to get great power, but I'd want a manual trans. I believe it's been done before. Just need a flywheel and adapter plate I'd think, with like a T-56. A 400hp SBC shouldn't have to get 12 mpg. What was the build like, the gears, etc.? My 327 Z goes 110mph in the quarter, which works out to around 375hp, using my car's corner scaled weight of 2800 with my 200+ lbs in it. I get 23mpg on the highway. But that's with a 3.7 diff, 5spd with .68:1 overdrive, and 26 in tire running a 650 double pumper (that's the mileage I got going to/from the SEZ 1 with the carb). My vote is to research the GN swap with a manual trans.

Ya know, I could listen to that 20 hours a day and not get tired of it! It even sounded great at 6k. 8500 was SWEEET!

Of course not. It just means that the Italian government buckles under pressure from terrorists just like the Spanish government did, whether the terrorists use guns or bombs, or an even worse kind of terrorist with a poison pen, lies, deceit, encitement of Iraqi's to join the insurgents with gruesome lies about what the white devils are doing, etc., like Guiliana.

Michael (Ol) will probably see this sooner or later and give you his Phd aerodynamicist opinion.

Interesting Header Design web site. Free registration (if you're not a company) to use their design software (online). http://headerdesign.com I found that for my engine, estimated HP, and using a "performance factor" selection of 6, I get the following recommendations: General Engine Specifications Total Number Of Cylinders in the Engine: 8 Cylinder Bore Diameter 4.155 in. Stroke Length 3.75 in. Compression Ratio 10.5:1 Peak Engine Horsepower Measured at the Flywheel 550 Engine RPM at Peak Horsepower 6200 Performance Factor (See Table) 6 Exhaust Port Length in Cylinder Head 2.2 in. No. of Collected Primary Pipes in One header 4 Primary Pipe Inside Diameter 1.71 in. (which is about 1-13/16" OD for 18 gage tubing) Primary Pipe Length 31.4 in. Collector Inside Diameter 2.80 in. (which is just shy of 2-15/16" OD for 16 gage tubing) Collector Length 13.6 in. Engine Displacement 406.8 cu. in. So for the primaries, it'd seem that 1-3/4" or 1-7/8" would make sense. For the collector, 2-7/8" or 3" would work. (Headers by Ed has tubing in 1/8" increments even at 3" range, so 2-7/8" is doable. I reran it for a 500hp engine of the same size, all else equal, and got the following: Primary Pipe Inside Diameter 1.67 in. (which is about 1-3/4" OD for 18 gage tubing) Primary Pipe Length 31.4 in. Collector Inside Diameter 2.73 in. (which is just shy of 2-7/8" OD for 16 gage tubing) Collector Length 13.6 in. Engine Displacement 406.8 cu. in. Not alot of difference, but it sure seems that 1-3/4 long tubes wiht a 2-7/8" collector would be fine for what I have planned. Kind of surprising since I was guessing 1-7/8" would be about right, even based on Ed's conservative chart included withe the "Header Talk" CD. Also interesting is that 31-32" primaries is all that's called for. Those are some long collectors though!

Larry, I'd also like to see the schematic for your fan setup. I'd REALLY like to see some pictures of your car, the hood, scoop, etc.

Tannji, I really love it when someone comes in and talks with understanding, points out generalizations that are clearly detrimental to the discussion and gives a view from outside of the far left and far right camps. Bravo!!! I editted your post by breaking it up into paragraphs for easier reading. I did that because I thought it'd be easier for more people to read without blowing it off. I wouldn't have touched it if I didn't think it was one of the best posts in this thread. I hope you don't mind. I certainly hope you are correct. Unfortunately, many people just read what the "news services" dish out and take it at face value. I remember seeing footage of many clueless people on the streets being interviewed why we shouldn't go into Iraq. They didn't know why - they just "felt" that way. Feelings are for relationships. Critical thought and logic are for making decisions. Unfortunately, to many people "think" with their "feelings". And when you get feeling about something, it becomes emotional (duh) and then you want to bitch and rant about it - think protestors.

Damn, those must be some huge trees that shed leaves that are 3 times as long as a car!!!

A bushing would be simple. A bearing might be too. The McLeod GM-to-Ford bearing is a simple sealed ball bearing with an aluminum, knurled ring pressed onto the outer race that fits into the larger diameter hole in the back of the GM crank. This fits the typical Ford Toploader input shaft. That's promising - that someone at G-Force is able to keep from turning people away. Polar Moment Of Inertia Here's a laymans definition, from Car and Driver's site: "Polar moment of inertia The resistance of an object to rotational acceleration. When the mass of an object is distributed far from its axis of rotation, the object is said to have a high polar moment of inertia. When the mass distribution is close to the axis of rotation, it has a low polar moment of inertia. A mid-engined car has most of its mass within its wheelbase, contributing to a low polar moment of inertia, which, in turn, improves cornering turn-in." Here's a geeky definition (http://www.synchrolite.com/B264.html): (just to show that the PMOI is a function of the SQUARE of the distance from the axis of rotation (center of gravity in the lateral plane for us). That means that the effect of moving a mass of M from a distance of x to a distance of 2x away from the CG means that the effect that moving that mass has an effect on the total PMOI of the vehicle which is 4 times more than when it was a distance x away from the CG)): "Polar moment of inertia of mass . [JM]sometime denoted byUnits are ft-lbs-sec2 (slug-ft2) or in-lbs-sec2 Appears in dynamics equations involving rotational motion. The resistance to change of a body in circular motion. Also known as Gyroscopic Inertia. JM bears the same relationship to angular acceleration as mass does to linear acceleration. See alsorotational inertia on this page. Value for cylinder:JM = 1/2mr2 ~ r is the radius of the cylinder. Value for hollow cylinder:JM = 1/2m(R2 + r2) ~ R is the outside radius of the cylinder. r is the inside radius. Value for disk with mass(m) considered as being concentrated at the radius ®. JM = m * r"

I just got off the phone with Bruce at modern drivelines. He is very easy to talk to and comes across as an engineer who likes to build custom conversions using T-5s etc. He does alot of stuff for the Mustang crowd, kit cobras (superperformance for one), and even does transmissions for Carrol Shelby's shop. He makes complete conversion kits for older mustangs, including flywheel, clutch, PP, clutch actuation, driveshaft, etc. He's done a Datsun T-5 conversion before, using a custom input shaft, modified tail housing, shaft, etc. and can do this for you, WW. He does suggest using a 26 spline clutch disk to get away from the custom input shaft. He's interested in doing a chunk of T-5s that would be all the same (more likely this would be for the SBC set here). His issue is that he works with a dealer that buys the gearsets from a G-force vendor (not G-force themselves) and basically gets little to no break on the pricing due to this. He does it this way to not have to deal with G-Force directly (I guess we know why!) The issue is that he needs a decent number (5 to 10 in his words) of orders for G-force T-5s to be able to buy enough gear sets at once to make it worth while. Bruce uses the Ford carbon fiber syncros, ford tail shaft bushing (longer, gives better lubrication and stability), Timkin bearings, his own custom lower cluster bearing support, etc. Basically, he makes his own "rebuild kit" since he doesn't like some of the lower quality stuff you find in the typical rebuild kits. He also does custom setup as far as getting the clearances so that the box will have no slop after use, no just in the initial setup of the box on the bench. He has F-Body WC cases if you need a complete trans from him without a core. So for those that would be interested in a GM WC T-5 trans with the G-Force gearset, he's interested in doing a run. After talking with him, I'd have no problem sending him money to build a T-5. Options like the G-force input shaft are also available obviously. I see Mikelly, Z-Dreamer, me as interested. (Yes, I'm going to sell my Tremec and get a T-5.) Are there any others interested? I have no idea what the exact price would be. But I believe it would get better if we had 3 or more people involved. He said figure on about $1100 for the gear set (like on G-forces site) and rebuild ($500 including labor and rebuild parts). That might not be the final total though. Sending a WC to rebuild will save money. Anyway, this is another option if you want a G-force upgraded T-5 and want to deal with someone who knows there stuff and is easy to deal with. I'll probably be sending my broken Camaro WC T-5 to have him G-force it, but I'll wait until we can get enough people to do it.

If the gear set is all that is needed to be changed, I don't see what that can't be worked into the deal. The upgraded input shaft will be custom though.

That actually makes a lot of sense. I had my Z in college, drove it, got it rusty, so it wasn't reliable. Then sat on it. But it was mostly a stocker with some big tires and suspension stuff. Thanks for the wake up call, Wayne! Seems I gave SuperDan the same advise a few years ago about his Z. But I think the money was actually something he really needed out of it. He's started on another one now though .

John, what you are seeing now is a bit of a civil war. Between those who don't want a democratic government, and certainly not one that they don't fully control. With the radicals in each of the Shiite,Sunni, and Kurdish camps, it was bound to happen. Maybe not your typical civil war, but one none the less. I shouldn't have said "we". We created the vacuum of power when Saddam packed his bags for the spiderhole. I didn't mean to insinuate that's a bad thing. Beyond what the terrorists/insurgents/radicals are doing to the country, there are many more freedoms now than before. But the vacuum of power means that there will be fighting in this kind of country. No, I don't line up with the liberals on much at all - certainly not hate mongering idiots like the Green Left Weekly. Actually, I'm not against many of the things they say they stand for. I just don't agree with their philosophy and tactics. We could have side stepped the UN (and maybe should have covertly) at any time. We played their game while the whiners (France, Germany, Russia, Koffi, Hans), who had something to lose by us shutting Saddam down, bitched and moaned.

What's really sad is that Bubba at G-Force has turned off at least two people personally over the phone from HybridZ. And apparently he turned Paul at 5speeds.com away too. We could just eat crow and order the boxes from Bubba, but I'm working on another route. I'll give you some insight on how it goes hopefully soon. I don't NEED a G-Force T-5, but I'm willing to add one more unit to the count.

Tony - you copying my avatar is a high form of flattery Yes, that's what I meant. Asymmetric meaning we have a conventional army and the terrorists use the most advanced guerilla tactics. I've never understood why we didn't just infiltrate Iraq covertly, take out Saddam and his underpinnings and disassemble the WMDs and labs. Sure, it might take a decade to do. But many fewer of our army would die, and fewer peace-loving Iraqi's. Now we've started the civil war I was afraid would happen - it might be inevitable no matter what we did after Saddam's regime was taken out of power. Instead, we gave him months of warning and went in with conventional methods. (if) he had WMDs and labs for them, we gave him plenty of chances to hide it out of country. And plenty of time for he and his cronies to devise a way of retreating and hiding and waging the war slowly as they have done, along with the opportunist terrorists that joined them. I just don't understand why the US government chose to do it this way. I never really thought it was a good way to go about things, even months before we went in. The side effects of that method would have been avoided if we'd just done it covertly. If terrorism isn't covert warfare, I don't know what is. And like you said, the only way to fight it is symmetrically, with covert attacks on the terrorists, once you hunt them down (in secrecy) and kill them. No trial, no prisoners. Just kill them. To do it any other way is to show them a weakness they can go after. Why we didn't kill Saddam in the spiderhole astounds me as well.

Certainly not. I think we should handle the Iranians the same way we SHOULD have handled Saddam, Al Quaida, Syria, etc. Asymmetric warfare should only be fought symmetrically. Terrorism, whether it's hoodlums in the desert or regimes that threaten the world with WMDs (don't get me started on whether WMDs WERE in Iraq before we warned them we were coming!) like Iran, and North Korea, are examples of asymmetric threats. The way to fight that is with covert action. That is how you fight a threat that is asymmetric to your standard way of fighting wars. Covert action that leaves no real evidence of who it is that is the actor. If evidence is left, it should point to someone else, so the terrorists don't know who to correctly target. Make it look like a common enemy so you get your enemies fighting each other. Thats the way this should have been done and should be carried out. I never agreed with the how of what Bush and his guys did, although I agreed on the need to take Saddam and his cronies out. That's because I know what Iraq was up to. And what Iran, NK, and Syria are up to in more detail than you can find on the Internet. Trash like Giuliana are even worse than terrorist thugs. Because they spew lies and cultivate hate. There message is given some air of validity because they are journalists and they get to use the pen to transmit their hate and lies far and wide. They deserve to be shot, put through a shredder, whatever is available. It really is too bad they didn't get her and the other two lying wenches that went to Iraq with her.

I was just putting that out for an option that I hope Paul at 5speeds.com might consider (if he hasn't already). John Coffey put his L6 aft in the engine compartment 4 inches. Can you do something like that to get the shifter where you need it? It'd help with handling too (half kidding - don't want to start another PMOI, setback, handling war!!!)

The Italians, the French, the Phillipinos - funding terrorism through ransom. G-bitch was just one of them. http://www.opinionjournal.com/editorial/feature.html?id=110006392 http://www.thepoliticalteen.net/archives/2005/03/michelle_malkin_3.php