pparaska

I line up with several of the poster's above: Enough is when you have enough power, at all rpms, to be afraid to use it all. Also, John Scott, said it for me: "Just don't use all of the gas pedal!" (sic) Heck, even if you build a 500 hp SBC (which CAN be streetable, btw), you can just NOT USE ALL OF IT! Not ready for all of the pedal? Make a throttle linkage that only opens the carb or air door part of the way at full pedal. Change that linkage as you get used to the car. Or swap cams, or put on a really small air door or carb. My Z's 375 crank HP (estimated from the 110.4 mph 1/4 trap speed) seems fast, but I can tell you that there are plenty of times I wish it had more. A one of those times was when I was at the track day last year at the ZCCA convention at NHIS. There were plenty of times I was chasing TT Z's, etc. that I wanted to be closing to space between me and them more or faster. (Most of the time I was wishing the other slow pokes would pull over and wave me by --- grrrrrr.) The car was neutral, and I had the pedal to the metal alot of the time. I only got afraid to use the power when the braking zone was looming ahead. I'd brake very early, since that was what was frightening to me (going in too hot). But on the straights and coming out of the corners, I was on the pedal all the way, winding it to 6K+ rpm. I wanted MORE POWER! Sure, the driver didn't NEED more power to be fast and get even respectable lap times (mine were horrible, I'm sure), but the driver WANTED more. That's the difference between competitive driving and just driving around, I suppose. To me, on the street, a high, broad torque curve is most pleasureable. I don't want to have to shift down all the time to feel the thrust. So my choice is to have much more MAXIMUM torque and HP than I need or might use - to get the amount of lower rpm torque I want.

9.7:1 compression 327 SBC, 274/280 adv. duration, 236/242 duration @.050, 2.02/1.60 pocket ported camel hump 461 heads, Holley Dual plane, 700 cfm Holley Pro-Jection, blockhuggers through 2.5" duals, Tremec TR-3550, 3.7:1 LSD, 255/40-17 Toyo Proxes RA-1 tires, rookie driver: 12.78 @ 110.4 - near sea level (Capital Raceway, Crofton MD) I estimate that at 375hp at the crank, working back from the MPH and 15% driveline losses. Seems slow now.

The problem is that even the references in that list rarely list the exact trim or dress of the engine. When I put my 406 together with heads, I'll see if I can find a way to weigh it and give all the details about what exactly is there, with photos. Adding the T56 weight (140 lbs from that list I linked to) to the 575 gives 715 lb total, compared to the L6 and 5spd at 523 lbs. Quite a difference. But most people go to AL heads with the SBC, as well as AL intake and wp. So 575 is a bit heavier than most SBC installs in the Z. Also note how light the Ford T5 is compared to the T56. 78 lbs vs 140 lbs. Another reason I'd go with the G-force upgraded T-5 versus the T56. If a SBC with all aluminum parts but the block (and internals) weighs 525 lbs, and you add a 78 lb T-5, that's about 600 lbs. Not bad, and the additional weight is aft of where the L6-5spd weight is installed. There are driver weight differences greater than 75 lbs .

Instead of a punch, how about a Sharpie marker? If there's no room, cut one short. Draw a circle in the hole of the mount by filling the area as best you can with the mount there. Remove the mount and use whatever tool you can to make a punch mark or hole in the center of the circles you drew.

Matt, I don't find it that surprising. After the really, really long thread we had on this topic was done (with the undoubtable Kim involved as well) we really did come to somewhat of an agreement - that the shifter location when using an internal shifter manual transmission - was the one very good reason for setting back the engine. Kim will continue to bitch about oil and trans pan clearance, "worse handling", etc., but these are all minor points compared to the fact that if you use the Scarab placement and don't use either an automatic transmission or an external shifter trans with a special bracket for the shifter, etc., you're hosed as far as shifter placement. I'm also trying to fit a Hilborn injector and short stacks under the Z hood with my 406 (have the parts, not working on it yet). Any less hood clearance than the JTR position affords means less stack length, which I don't want (makes the induction tune wrong for the rest of the engine's powerband).

What a freaking crock! I can't believe this guy. SR20DET more tunable than a Chevy V8! Once he's done throwing 45 psi at it, I want to see what he thinks. Cubes will alway allow for more power and more tunability, if you use the same power adders (turbo in this case). Tony will not get the only word on this, I assure you.

I have a buddy that's thinking of an old school SBC (GEN I) into a 318Ti. The engine compartment is the same size as the 325,330,etc. Any links to stuff like that, please forward to me if you can. Pete

I like the 240Z as a starting point (better looking to start with (MO), lighter to start with, etc.). Plus electrically it's simpler. But it's just a preference. Air dam. I use the Xenon X3124 urethane one. You WILL crack a fiberglass one sooner or later. I used a 1.5"x1.5"x1/8"thick piece of angle aluminum bolted under the horizontal middle section with 9 screws to keep it from flexing. Work's fairly well. I like the old SBC, but mostly because of the price and availability of things. But as someone wrote in one of the magazines lately, it's about 1963 in terms of the LS1 now (it came out in 95 and is now getting the amount of aftermarket attention as the SBC did by 1963). I'd say if you have the bucks, go with the LS1 - super flat torque curve and it responds very well to upgrades. Of course, the JTR manual doesn't cover the LS1. John's Cars has a kit now to do this. A few here have used that. Others have fabbed their own stuff. I use the Corbeau A4s, with the lumbar option. I'm 6'2" and even with a helmet, I have room. They are very comfortable, but if your wide, they can be too snug. You should really test sit seats locally if you can. Doesn't someone make steel flares now? Check paint/body section. I don't have a problem with coilovers for street use. But you will probably want to keep the stock or some other cushioning isolator at the top of the strut to keep the harshness away. Structural enhancements - look here: http://alteredz.com/structuralmods.htm Ditto on the dash cap. $100 for the full face dash cap is alot easier to swallow than $500+ that justdashes wants. I say go manual. A BW T-5 will last behind a 320hp V8, if not beat on horribly. Beyond that, a G-force upgraded T-5 (talk to Mikelly) will be a great way to go if more torque capacity is needed. But if you do a 700R4, make sure you get a good one, with the Corvette governor, etc.

1968 is what I've always heard for the switch to the large journal on the 327. But there may have been some 67 cars/trucks with that size as well. BTW, the rod bolts on the 327 (small journal) are 11/32" not 5/16". I highly recommend going to SPS, ARP, etc.

When I converted my carbed V8Z to TBI, I needed a new line big enough to use for return. I kept the 3/8" one I had put in the tunnel, but added a 1/2" AL line by running it inside the subframe connector. The lines in the tunnel can get very close to the transmission depending on which one you use. With the Tremec TR-3550 (or TKO) 5spd, the trans comes very close.

SleekZ (zparts.com) used to have a Scarab bellhousing listed on consignment, but I don't see it there now. That part is RARE and it's going to be pricey. A simple flat bracket that bolts to the clutch linkage bosses on the SBC and hangs down has been used before. This shouldn't be difficult to fab.

Well, Kim rebutted that I had really bought into the hype. Then went on to say his racing record of Scarab vs JTR proved his point that JTR setup cars handle worse. Kim obviously knows all. How could I have dared question is undeniably superior intellect? Pete

Have a 327 - fun, winds up high. Going to a 406 - 74 more cubes means 74 more hp (actually more) for the same weight engine. If you drive on the street, the 327 can seem lazy at times down low. Just my data point.

A former member is saying not to nice things about a current members manual on Z car V8 conversions. I won't post it here since that goes against the IZCC list charter. Its this version of the digest: Monday, February 7 2005 Volume 2004 : Number 1173 I don't mean to make trouble, but I believe what this guy posted is uncalled for. He's making the JTR swap sound like a very bad design, and saying his Scarab placement is the only right way. [New: I posted a LONG point-by-point reply - lets see if the list admins let it through - I wasn't nice, but I was decent about it.] Anyone can join the IZCC list from here: http://zhome.com/IZCC/izcc/mailinglist.html. You can then get archives from the server (after you're a email list member) by using the directions at the bottom of the page just linked.

Well, let's recap. Tony said HybridZ members sounds like elitist snobs. Then McTOMTOM said something about whiny assholes. Hmm. Where is the name calling going on here?

I was wondering if white ones are really necessary for red tail lights, (or yellow turn signals, for that matter). I either remembered from my physics class or guessed what was going on with the tail light lense color correctly - after I googled a bit, I affirmed my suspision - the color of the lense acts as a bandpass filter, not necessarily severely attenuating the color of light that's in it's "band". (See the second paragraph under "Optical filters" : http://www.imagineeringezine.com/ttaoc/lightpro.html#8 ) What that means is that if the light coming out of the LED is red and the lense is a true bandpass filter with ideally zero attenuation for the same red color, then the light from a red LED of X mcd will shine just as brightly through the lense as a white LED of X mcd. Of course, in reality no lense will have zero attenuation, even a clear one that isn't acting to filter out certain visible wavelengths, by design. Of course the other issue is whether the bandpass wavelength of the Z's red taillight lense matches the wavelength of the typical Red LED (~590nm). It's probably close enough... Another issue that I found was a problem with using white LEDs in red lensed lights: http://www.iguanamotors.com/faq.cfm (search for "My incandescent bulb is clear, why do I need a colored LED?") In other words, white LEDs don't necessarily put out anything close to an "even" spectrum of visible light like incandescents do, so don't expect colored lenses to filter their output like they do for incandescent lights. Their response: "Previously, the lack of white-light LEDs has limited the integration of LEDs into a wide range of applications; however, now, the misconception exists that InGaN-white LEDs can illuminate a lens of any color thereby simplifying lighting requirements and designs. Wrong! Since the color red is not represented in the white LED, white LEDs can only be used behind a clear or milky white lens or panel. Place a white LED behind a red lens and the light produced is a pink color, a yellow lens turns a lemon-lime, green lens shifts to aqua and orange lens becomes yellow. To maintain accurate and brilliant colors, it is imperative to match the LED color with the lens color. In short, white LEDs made from a blue chip cannot be used as a general backlighting light source for different colored lenses and panels." This is backed up by a tech article on Sunbrite's site: http://www.sunbriteleds.com/articles/index.asp?file=Led_VS_Incandescent.htm " For signage applications it is important to match the color of the sign face with the color of the LED to optimize lighting performance and color." Now, that's interesting! I was noticing that the white LEDs through the red lense shown in this thread looked pink, but thought it was a computer graphics issue. Oh well, I guess my Yellow and Red $7/ea LED type 1157 replacements from Newark were a good way to go anyway, over the $19/ea White ones. (I have Euro 240Z tail lights I'm going to try them in.) They are 47000mcd-48500mcd in the bright mode, with a 30 degree viewing angle. As noted, I think that will be fine since the lense is a diffuser also. They're Sunbrite 11 LED jobs: http://www.sunbriteleds.com/product.asp?id=127 I'm hoping they'll be bright enough, but if not, I'll consider opening the housings to install arrays - of yellow and red LEDs.

Wow - that's at least 3 RB powered S30 Z's within a few hours driving distance from me - Bob in Annapolis, JamieT in Richmond, and now Joe in Southern MD!

Good point, John. I was really referring to using 16 gage (not 18 like I wrote) instead of 1/8" for the tubing wall thickness. The tiny amount of weight increase you're talking about in an area where the Z is not very stiff seems a minor concern. When these cars rust, the front and rear ends of the inner and outer rocker boxes get mushy, and the car gets more flexible. That's why I added the floor board frame rails, and tied them in well front and rear - to provide a replacement path for bending and torsional loads on the chassis.

Hi Alex - thanks for the wake up email! 18 gage is a bit thin for this use. 1/8" is probably a better choice of the two. I'd go with the 1/8" of the two you have. Steel gage thickness as reported by manufacturers vary alot. Here's a chart I found, although I've seen 18 gage reported at .0451" versus the .0478" I see on this chart. I'd go with something like 12 gage at least if I had a choice. http://www.evergreen.edu/biophysics/technotes/fabric/sheet_metal.htm All the weld through coatings I've used burn off around the weld area and I'd think rust later. Zinc phospate coatings like what POR-15's metal prep and Eastwood's Oxi-Solv leave behind is good, but usually thin. If you have the car on a rotisserie, then spraying POR-15 (LOTS) into the closed cavity through holes and then spinning her around on the spit may distrubute the paint well.

Go to http://MSEFI.COM - MSII should be out by January and it will enable you to do both spark and fuel programming. I'm going to be using the Ford EDIS-8 setup with a series 50, 36 tooth chain sprocket (got it for like $18 at surpluscenter.com) for triggering the EDIS/MSII. The big HEI will bite the dust . MSII is a daughter board that replaces the HC08 processor of the MS v2.2 board. It's plug and play, although getting ignition control will involve running a few extra wires from jumper locations on the board. MS v3.0 board is in the works that will make all of that easier and cleaner.

To me it's a socialist idea to expect that everyone in the US should be entitled to unfettered access to the incredibly high level of health care the US CAN provide. Should hospitals accept everyone, insurance or not, for emergency room care for real life threatening or severe illness/injury? I think so. Should everyone have free access to as many doctor's office visits, hospital care, all possible tests, treatments and surgeries, and any perscription drugs that a doctor might ask for - for NOTHING? HELL NO. But there is a minimum level of health care - that which is necessary to keep one reasonably healthy (be it preventative, reactive, etc.) and to emergency and critical care. That sounds like what a good health plan would consist of. But Tenncare's "give them access to as much as they can get" system is exactly the kind of extreme socialist "care" (be it welfare or medical) that is ridiculous and would bankrupt THE US it Hillary or Kerry or their friends had their way. If you let the hand-wringers have their way, there won't be enough money left in the budget to do anything BUT provide unfettered healthcare for all US citizens and those able to get here illegally. Pass that kind of legislation, and watch the borders be gushing with incoming illegals, even more than they do now.