1 fast z

I made another run, and have a few extra if someone is needing some in a hurry. Many have bought some, and actually bought all I had, so I made another run. Price is not accurate on my site, they are 140.00 with injector holes. http://www.bandmzcars.com/IntakeFlanges.html If this is too much mods, delete, I am just saying if somone needs something in a hurry and cant wait for the ones initially talked about in this thread, there are more availible.

P90 Head Pictures: MN47 Head Pictures, and BTW the threaded hole is right above the heater jacket port, after number 6 cyl. Flow graph of different heads. DOHC Z Car head.

Can I add info also???? E30= This head came on Cars that never came to the states. It was available on the 2.0 L series engine. This head has 37cc chambers, and SMALL intake ports. The valves are also small in diameter. Bronze seats as well. This head would be a screaming High Compression head if someone would take the time and put the bigger valves and do a decent port job on it as well. This head also does have a high quench design as well. E31= This head is available on all 240z's up to about the month of 10/70. There were about 10,000 of these heads made. This head has 42cc chambers and is also a high quench design as well, much like the E30, except this head has the 35mm Intake Ports and the larger valves. E31's had bronze seats as well. E88= There are actually 3 variations of the E88. The first variation is of which it is the EXACT same head as the E31, except it has the E88 casting code. The second is which it has the large open chamber to where it is a 47 cc chamber now, and not the 42. The third is where it has the open 47cc chambers and also has the large Ex valve inserted, the 260z's got these, and to where the bore had to be notched to accept the larger valve. N42= This head came on all 75-76 and EARLY 77 cars. It has the 47cc chamber, and this head is a fully open head. This head was used on a fully dished piston, to where no quench was used. It has the largest of the valves much like all 280's did. 44mm intake and 38mm ex. This is the last of the L heads that came with bronze seats. This head has Square ex ports, and has the Injector notches as well. N47= This head came on all mid 77 through the 1980 z cars. It has the same exact characteristics as the N42 except that it has the cast in ex liners. These liners were cast in place, for the reason that when the motor is running, these liners get so hot that they glow red hot, and with that you get the advantages of them burning off the hydrocarbons that are left over in the exhaust charge. This is the first head to have hardened seats put in all of the valves. P79= This head is a Good head. This head came on all 81-83 NA cars. This head has the Ex liners cast in as well, but the chamber is a HIGH quench design. The chambers are 53cc's. This head when used with a Flat top block will yield a HIGH quench design, and will reduce detonation. P90= This head is also a good head, as it has the same exact characteristics as the P79, except that it has the non-linered square port ex ports. This head is wildly used for NA setups also, to where most shave .08" off of the deck, and then insert the 75-80 valves to take up the valve lash, and then put cam tower shims to make up the timing chain slack. P90A= There are actually two variations of the P90A. One is the solid lifter style to where it is exactly like the P90. The second is also exactly like the P90, except it has Hydraulic lifters.

Yea just take a stock set of dished pistons and turn them in a lathe, pretty simple and been done lots of times.

Yea, BUT I know that the Cams stock comapred to a L series cam, has a much different profile, with about the same duration, It has to do with the direct acting cam, as compared to the ration lifter cams like L series. I will try them and see what and how it performs, its pretty simple to change the cams, it it performs like crap, then They will come out immidiatly.

Ok, so here is some pictures of the re-ground cams. One thing I guess I dont understand/like is how peaked the new ground cams are. Sure we increased the duration about 12-15 degrees at .050" and the lift about a 1/16th of an inch, BUT at maximum lift and a few degrees of rotation on both sides of the max lift point, the lift starts to fall off quickly. GENERALLY this is a good torque grind, but for all out HP, I dont see the valve getting much flow at max lift. Does anyone have any insight on this, as this is the first DOHC cam griding I have done. Here are some pics. REGROUND: STOCK: REGROUND: STOCK:

Yea pull the DP off, and see if that fixes the flow problem, but I am going to say it wont. I as well as many of us local guys run 3" FULL ex systems, and are pulling above 500 RWHP pretty easy. I would suspect some other tuning, or plug gap, etc. How big is the cam? Specs? And a car that runs 8.5 in the 8th will run abou low 13's from my experience. I ran my car in the 8th and it ran 8.2 @ 88mph on my L series NA engine 77z, and at the track at that time it ran 13.0 in the 1/4. His turbo may have had alot better spool in the upper gears, so he could of possibly broke 13's.

Thanks for the help and suggestions guys. The thing I dont like, is that it is a street car and getting in and out of the car with the weld in door brace is going to be a PITA. I really want the saftey, as well as be able to run MULTIPLE times at the track below 11.50's, but also do not want the hassle of that cross bar. I think what I MIGHT do, is make that bar removable for 90% of the time, and when I go to the track, I will just weld it in, as I guess now that bar has to be welded, and not hinged? That way I can still have the head on impact collision, and saftey, but not have to climb over that bar when I daily drive the car.

I can test it, as I was curious how the KA head stock compared to the RB head stock. Is the 26 head supposed to flow better than the 25? and the 25 better than the 20? I just have to take the cams out and 4 valves out to do it, and put weaker springs.

It is possible, but thats one of those deals I dont belive it till I see it, ya know. Sure with big valves, TOTAL port reconstructin, etc.

Yes this is with the valves in place. Generally, I start at .2" and work up to .55" That is where most cams are, so its best testing in that area. Yes all of the heads on that graph are with STOCK valves.

Here is a graph to give persepctive on L series heads.

Ok, I want to build a cage for my 2+2 Fairlady. I dont know much about the tech portion of what is needed to be legal. I want to be able to be teched to a 10.00-11.50 class for NHRA, as well as possibly 8.50-9.99 class, if I ever get my car that fast. I also will be autocrossing the car. I am mainly building the cage for saftey, as this is a daily driven car, and am affraid of dumb people on the road, broad siding me. From what I gather, atleast from NHRA rules, you have to have .120" wall, and it doesnt matter if it is Chromoly or Mild steel. Bars do not have to go into the engine compartment? How many point cage does it need to be? Pictures would be nice also. Thanks in advance.

I am comparing it against L6 heads that make good power, IE 2j, 7m, Rb, and that are also close to the same displacement.

I just looked on this page here http://users.erols.com/srweiss/tablehdc.htm And other head flows are as follow. STOCK 2jz= 225 and 142 at .5" 2jz M2 Systems race ported= 285 175 at .5" PORTED RB26= 289 222 at .5" 7mgte stock= 180 133 at .5" PORTED 7mgte= 211 145 at .5" So Seems to hold pretty well compared to these heads.

Here is some pictures:

Damn, its all bunched together.

Ok, so tonight I started porting on the head. I did NOT port it before, and it was in 100% stock form, as far as valves, ports, etc. Go. Here are the Flow Numbers. It took ALOT to get these ports like this. These ports are actually maxed out. There are no more restrictions in the ports what so ever, atleast not with these sized valves. With my new cams, Turbos and the increased Head Flow, I dont see how 700+ hp is out of line. To give an idea, a stock P90 flows 172, my highest modified P90 flows about 225 cfm. Plus the dohc head is a cross flow. Heres the numbers. Intake Flow lift Stock Modified 0.2 156.2 165.7 0.25 198.8 227.2 0.3 224.8 260.3 0.35 248.5 276.9 0.4 248.5 288.7 0.45 248.5 300.5 0.5 248.5 305.3 0.55 248.5 310.0 Exhaust Flow Lift STOCK MODIFIED 0.2 146.7 151.5 0.25 170.4 182.2 0.3 182.2 191.7 0.35 196.4 198.8 0.4 201.1 208.2 0.45 201.1 217.7 0.5 201.1 222.4 0.55 201.1 224.8

There are a couple of us on here that sell intake flanges, but I dont know about ex. The intake flanges are 6061 AL.

Here is some shots to a few of our mopars. http://www.blakemachineprojects.com/ http://www.blakemachineprojects.com/RED70CONVERT.html http://www.blakemachineprojects.com/71HEMIHARDTOP.html Just for kicks.

Yea about 75 more foot lbs of torque then my motor did. We shall see, as when the new cams and turbos go in this week. Should make 600 rwhp on 17 psi now, atleast thats what Im hoping for, but The torque will still be pretty low even at that number I bet. I still havent got to ride in your car, although I have in cliftons a few times. It looks like, and clifton says also that your car makes a bit more power given the same boost levels, although, he hasnt really dynoed his with the new motor. I say we all go back to the dyno at the end of January, when it is still cool, and see what sort of numbers we can lay down. Then we can REALLY make those late gen camaro guys look dumb with there 330 rwhp, even though they sound about ten times as mean as our "little motors" haha.

Yea, I have been behind that car for hundreds of miles, haha. Yea its fast, I can attest to that. What is the torque andy? I am curious as we made about the same amount of horsepower, nearly exactly the same, but I have 6lbs less boost, so I am wondering how much more torque you have then me.

These are cheap ebay turbos. Here is the auction I won. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=020&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT&viewitem=&item=300179128771&rd=1 I have known other guys to run cheapo turbos, they say the MAIN thing is the compresser housings cracking, as SOME of them are "glued" together. You can tell which ones are glued, and which ones are fuesed by looking at them, and these that I got are NOT glued, so should be ok. We will find out anyways. Even if they dont last forever, atleast I can know if I like the ratios and size of them, then if they break (doughtful) then I will buy genuine garrets.

Andy/2fidyz??????????????????

Here are some pictures of the stock T3 vs the T3/T4's that are going on. I will no longer use 17 year old stock KA head bolts either, as now I have got custom ARP head studs, should hold the head down fairly well.