1 fast z

About 3 inches two short.

7m and 5m are the same family, and NOT EVEN CLOSE. You guys actually think I put thousands of hours of R and D into my head without reaseraching every possible angle .

I have made a few brackets for the 13" front rotors, and the 11.65 rear cobra rotors, to accept a traditional willwood caliper. Let me know if this is what you are needing.

I have already posted a ballpark price.

Problem with the RB head also, is that it is about 1.5" to short on the back of the head. THe rear water chambers are not even close to being correct. The front timing components also would need heavy mods. Belt drive, would have to be incorperated, etc. Trust me I did look, and I actually do have an RB26 head just laying around.

My valve cover is out of billet, and made on our cnc mill. I did cut and weld a ka valve cover, and cam be done cheaply, but it comes out very ugly, on how the cuts are made. Like I said IF there WAS enough volume then casting could be done, but for what is involved and the cost, there would never be enough people willing to shell out the cash to cover cost involved. I would say that maybe I would get one guy ever to acutally be serious about the whole project. Atleast serious enough to fund it. My bets are that I will never make one for someone else though.

If there was enough market you could build the molds, but if there is going to be one maybe two customers ever for this project it is not worth it.

Sure, but you just named about 8 thousand dollars worth of added cost there. If I had to just ballpark what I mentioned earlier, I would have to say somewhere around 7k for head, cams, valve cover, front cover, valves, springs, ported, arp head studs, timing components. I am not offering this as a pitch, so mods dont take it this way, just throwing around ideas.

I guess when I think big power 550 is not big, hehe.

Just initially, to ensure, timing setup, Correct head gasket install, etc. I would even build a start up stand and run it on the stand to opp. temp, etc. to ensure no leaks, etc. The best way would be for me to build the entire engine, including manifolds, injectors, etc. Included in the kit would be a tuned Megasquirt unit, to that engine, etc, all ready to drop in. Obvously this would not be cheap to do all of this, but it would be a good system. I could sell the head, cams timing components, with no gurantees on the install, and only gurantee the craftsmanship. If I were to sell the head, timing system, cams, custom head studs, etc, Basicly it would come like this But it would come with valves, cams, timing components installed. I would also include the front timing chain cover, which is custom. I would have to charge extra for the billet valve cover, as the material alone is like 700.00 last I checked.

A friend of mine cast up ten 6 cylinder heads for a 302 GMC engine, out of alluminum ofcourse. He said his patterns alone cost him about 48k. THEN once the castings are finished the machine time and programing has to be done. Cam bores, lifter bores, guide bores, seat bores, oil drilling holes, etc. I would and could duplicate my whole entire engine build, either NA or Turbo. I could build just the head, cams, valves, timing components, etc. and make a drop on package onto someone elses 3.1 block, but for me to gurantee the whole system I would have to do the entire instalation.

I would consider duplicating my design if someone was serious. It is ALOT of unseen work (sorta to keep it low key) that goes into the project. I would almost have to build the entire engine for the potential customer, to ensure it is all together correctly, ie. timing components, oiling, etc.

From my twin experience, those ex housing are WAY small for big power, compresser housings are also. I would definitly weld on T3 flanges. I couldnt really make any more power than 550 rwhp with TWO zx turbos.

I sure hope you will incorperate some sort of velocity stacks inside that intake. Makes TONS of difference even on boost.

Yea build a flow test machine, pretty easy. Fuel Pump, FPR, Scale, stopwatch. Pretty simple. Innovate recomends I think about 3 month intervals for re-calibrations.

I have purshased a "few" sets, and the R1 springs (some brand) seem to work well. Measured on a bathroom scale and a arbor press. Possibly just a weird batch. I have had bad springs from another well known z car supplier with terrible results as well. I now have about 30 different springs I have picked up from different places that I test with.

Whats nice about coilovers is that you get CHEAP springs. You can buy springs from summit for about 35.00 a peice if I remember, so you can almost stock a few different rates/lengths and use for testing.

What are your AFRs? For a 11.8-12.2 afr engine, they all look a bit lean.

Seats come square with no angles ground on them Seats HAVE to be ground concentric to the guide after installation. This HAS to be done by someone who knows what they are doing.

Yea, because with squat, all motion inertias aside, you get negative camber, which in turn reduces tire contact.

You can usually on ebay pick up four collars, four nuts, four springs ( in different rates) and four cheap hats, for 35.00. I have used this setup in other cars with good results considering the money spent.

Summitracing.com ebay.com

With my setup, I have about 1.25" to spare as for side clearence. Even with a 12" wheel and 315 tire, regular ZG's will still clear NO PROBLEM.

I have a customer that needs a set. So count me in.

The basic ZG's will fit a 315 wide tire. THOSE wide ZG's will fit a 335 wide tire, which I may be going to in the future, not sure though.