1 fast z

Sequential.

As long as I live through my dyno sessions next week, Ill be there too!

Could be valve lash. Could be flat lobes on the cam on those cyliners.

I know lots of guys who hold records (current records BTW) anywhere from 125 MPH through 220 MPH and have guided us on building our Bonniville car. That is where I get my info from. You can gain ALOT more than 1-2 MPH in the last couple miles of the short course. Im not saying your wrong, or them, Just from what the experience shows from them is what I go by, as We are just learning in the LSR side of things, as we have been drag racers and dirt track racers. I do urge you to post your thoughts on that thread though.

Here is a post here tony you can make those comments about LSR on http://www.landracing.com/forum/index.php/topic,5854.0.html

Do you have any quench pad on the pistons, or are they just a circle cut out for the dish? I would run 11.5-12-1. I run 12-1 on 91 octane and 36 degrees of timing on a high quench setup. I ran that same cam with this setup for awhile, but it kinda fell off at about 6600.

Just for reference. A lighter flywheel, does nothing for HP to the ground. Talk to bonniville racers, and you will findout what and what does not matter for all out HP. It makes it rev happy, for an autocross car or what not, but no increased HP. Same with a lighter drive shaft. A piston being lighter does help though.

Ohh, selling suspension components, I would setup an LLC for sure! I make lots of parts for customers, but NEVER suspension. Stick to making cool products for yourself, so you dont get sued by some shmuck that drives his car on nasty dirt roads for ten years, then the alluminum fatigues and brakes, then kills someone, and you get sued.

I got these down to under 300 grams all on a manual bridgeport. WHen you concentrate on the piston, you make the rod stronger, as well as the crank, wrist pin, etc. You also are accelerating and decelerating that mass with each and every RPM, therefore more HP.

Less moment arm, I suspec is the reason.

As long as you have a good soft DR, like a 275 on that 9.5 wheel, youll see how much less it spins. In a way its less "fun" but makes for a much quicker car.

But will the car make it over the plains, through the desert and to ocean front property on the 24th of April, THAT is the REAL question .

Man you need atleast some 275 wide good drag radials. That will get rid of that spinning in second and third.

YGood luck. Knife edging, or lightening the throws, will take alot of stability out of the crank, at certain harmonics. How light are your pistons? You should be able to get a 89mm bore piston down to 285 grams bare. That would be alot better area to concentrate on. LIsten to this engine rev, and this is a BONE stock V07 crank. And the tach reads correctly, according to MS.

What do you mean "beat up"? I run my strokers to 8500 with no crank problems. I would suspect your builder did not set the bearings up right.

Actually no. If you take one big turbo, that has the same EX volume in the turbine housing, as two twins, the single will spool faster. It has to do with the ineria of the turbines themselves. If you have two turbines that flow the same as a single turbine, the single will spool quicker. The mass of the two (inertia) is more than the single, given equal flow.

RX7's and Fourth gen supras use sequential. How it works, is one turbo gets all 6 cylinders, untill a desired RPM, or boost pressure. Then a gate opens up and allows all the 6 cylinders to go through two turbos. This is why I built my twin turbo setup with twins rather than one big single. A correctly sized sequential setup will always have more area under the torque and HP curve than a big single.

Stick two air hoses together from two seperate air compressors with each at 100 PSI. Guess what, you dont get 200 PSI, but rather 100 PSI. They do not add, but rather average out. If you had one at 100 and the other at 150, considering the SAME volume, you would end up with 125 PSI at the junction.

Many of us have run this setup perfectly. You should ALWAYS check piston to valve clearence (PTV). .022" is perfect. How far above the deck were your pistons above the deck? The block could of been surfaced before.

It cleared on my NA setup with ARP studs.

Was your torque wrench just out of calibration or? Yes you can buy new bolts, from a bolt store. Or you can buy studs.

It takes ALOT of force to snap one! I bet all of your others are over stretched and junk also.

I would Use Prussion Blue to see how wide the seat is on the valve, and where it is seating. Your machinest that did the valve job should not have done this without the valves.

Thats 2 thou too much

I suspect that your motor will be making around 600 to the ground. On my twin cam, twin turbo car, I have a super light inertia setup, and I have no lag problems, related to that. I would suggest building it light as possible. When you have the boost come on, and it comes on hard when you are within that boost threshold zone, you dont want/need that extra inertia.