1 fast z

A Car of Many COlors!

I paint a fair amount of cars, and work with alot of people that do. We all either spray right outside at about 4-5 in the morning when the air is calm, or right in the garage with the door open. Many here have seen the cars I have sprayed, and there is NO dirt that is visable at all in the paint. I actually rented TWO different paint booths to spray my cars in. Those two times were the most dirty paint jobs I have ever done. I will never paint in a booth again. As long as you wet the floor, and keep the water flowing, and keep your compressor outside, you will have a REALLY clean job. I have used the plastic in the early days of my painting, and it creates SOOOO much static electricity that it ATTRACTED the dust, and then dropped it on the car. Never again for me. Again this is MY opinion you can take it as you wish.

Before my MS days, I ran a stock ECU and electronics. I ran a 13.9 in a full 280z car, at 1300 feet of elevation. I ran turbo injectors, a WB, and a turbo converted AFM. I had a .470" lift and 270 in duratin, and 280 ex duration. When I went with MS and ITB's I got it down a few more tenths. IMHO, MS, should be the FIRST mod on any car.

http://forums.hybridz.org/forumdisplay.php?f=73

MS needs about 7 volts as a min.

What is the RPM signal looking like? REmember Ms does not need to "talk" to the EDIS module, and as long as the wheel is setup correctly, you should get 10 deg btdc. You just need pin 24 on the DB37 to be connected to the edis module for a rpm signal. I would disconnect pin 36 and try it.

20.00 at a machine shop, and it is done right, is it worth your legs?

Thats a pretty big turbo.

Wow, I just checked back with this thread, and it is mainly about arguing about my head! ha, anyways, it is one COMPLETE KA head, wire EDM cut down the middle. Then it is one other head that has cylinder one and cylinder 4 wire edm cut off as well. Then with very precise surface grinding, you get the correct thickness. So yes, only TWO ka heads are needed.

Get Spray DYKEM, it works the best.

Perferct, I would run how it was, dont change the pads. Looks Great.

Your engine only NEEDS 1 PSI to work at idle. After that if you have 30 PSI at 6k RPM, you wont hurt it.

You can only quote it, if you fix any grammer mistakes!

Ok, so I have been talking to matt, at DIY, and he has helped alot. He says that since I was setup for EDIS before, the only thing I have to do is take the jumper that was from tachselect to optoin, that it now needs to go from tachselect to VR in, and that is it for chaning things, except for connecting the BIP's to R26, 27, 29 and MT setting changes. But as per this page http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_articles/trigger_wheels_overview.htm It says this: Build the VR conditioner circuit, as described in Step 51 of the MegaManual. All our preassembled Megasquirts with the V3.0 or V3.57 board come with this circuit installed. Jumper TachSelect to VRIN. (V3.57: Set JP1 to the 1-2 position.) Jumper TSEL to VROUT. (V3.57: Set J1 to the 3-4 position.) You may need to adjust the VR trim pots, R52 and R56, when this is installed on a running engine. A usual base setting is to turn them all the way counterclockwise. Jumper IGBTOUT to IGN to send to IGBT ignition coil driver signal out of pin 36 on the DB37. (not needed on a V3.57) Cut out R57 if fitted (This won't be there on my units, though.). So do I also need to jumper Tsel to VR out? Also, I have a jumper from IGN, to S10 currently, but DIY's site says to jumper IGBOUT to IGN? Any help guys?

It all boils down to what you want to run for fuel then. You will get detonation problems at a certain boost, but all dependent on fuels. I would Do As I am saying, and take the pistons to a machinest, and they will charge you around 2-300 bux to do it RIGHT.

YOu need to Have .025" piston to head clearence. Order your pistons extra thick in the domes. Then when you get them, you need to find out where the exact mirror image is of EACH combustion chamber, usually by putting prussion blue on the head, and bumping the head, with no head gasket with the pistons installed in the bore, and on rods and on the crank. Then mark the outline of the CC with a scribe. Then go to your mill and dish the correct amount, but do NOT go outside of that scribe line. Then once you have them all dished, go back on the inside and lighten them up, since you ordered them extra thick, and make it about .200' thick everywhere in the dome. Hope that made sense.

These are off of a camary. Z-Ya is right, the dwell is not right for the coils, Its too low. Looks like I will have to install THREE BIP's. Sorta sucks. But thats life.

Its going to be its third time to the coast this week. Probably over 20 thousand miles on it so far.

Its a little thing called tax write off

I run 20-25 thou on a top ring of a High HP l series. You always want extra clearence on a turbo motor that will see ALOT higher BTU's than most motors. Test have shown that you will see no difference in HP between 35 thou and ten thou of ring gap. Set your second ring at about .012"-.015".

Well, I have always hated the spark plug wires going across the intake manifold and the valve cover. So I am running wasted spark with coil on plug setup. I am just using the ford EDIS 6 module to fire them. Old System: New System: Also took it on a mountain drive to try it all out

Well, I have always hated the spark plug wires going across the intake manifold and the valve cover. So I am running wasted spark with coil on plug setup. I am just using the ford EDIS 6 module to fire them. Old System: New System: Also took it on a mountain drive to try it all out

No it will not.

Maybe the bare BLOCK, not a complete motor!

I hope you fully welded that patch, and not just spot welded like shown. If you just put filler over it like that, the moisture will pop it off from the backside eventually.