EvilC

I would take 2 or 3 sets.

JimC that is a valid answer, Rags and I have built 4 of them. Price is everything.

Now Hellcat Charger........................

Good info Savage, I have the AZC setup and was looking at the differences in the hat design. Like you said, I would def stay away from those drill rotors if you are doing any track days.

Exactly Tony, right out the damn box!

I like it! At the end of the day it is a muscle car not a sports car so who cares about the weight! It has AC, Nav, radio, comfy seats and a damn warranty! I'll keep my Z cars for track use and would def buy this as a daily car. HP is the claim to fame and this car is a true daily use car. Guess most of you wont like the Hellcat Charger too because it is going to be "heavy".

Are the calipers on the TTT and AZC setup the same? Looks like the AL hats are designed pretty much the same.

Was a great trip out to San Fran and Monterey area. Leon it was great to meet you and your wife for dinner and talk Z cars after! Muir Woods was great, wine country was great and the roads you guys suggested to drive were amazing! Looking forward to our next trip out.

Post pics not link of the 2j Z.

Another Fairlady going after?

Anyone buys these yet? https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/240z/negative-camber-roll-center-adjusters-240z-260z-and-280z Best assumption based on pictures - I am seeing a second mounting hole that would push the wheel assemble (rotor) more outboard = wider track. That distance between bolt holes would be the distance I gain from dust boot to rotor. Question would be, is the new negative camber achieved too much or can it (maybe?) be corrected via camber plates since I already have them installed on the car? Besides the second mounting hole, thickness should also be accounted for to achieve correct bump steer geometry and would also "push" the ball joint further away from the rotor. Thoughts?

You hook it up to a blk wire with white strip? Glad to hear she ran!

McDatsun - can you post pictures and details of issues. Good info posted Nigel.

You can find a black wire with white stripping as your 12v+ during cranking(usually found near fuse box/pamel on our Datsuns) to hook the pcm to (pink wire of GM computer).

Thanks guys for all the great info! We are booking final hotel rooms and such today - Leon I will contact you soon. Will try to stop out and chat Z cars!

I planned on the brake ducting, the heat shield is something I can think up and have something made.

This will be my first time out west and I will be coming out to SF to meet my gf who is traveling for work. The plan is to stay a week and visit a few places but I wanted to know are there "local" places that should be seen that the local people hit up. Or maybe a few suggested things to do while in the area. Driving from place to place will not be an issue so sound off if you anything comes to mind. I have a list of things we plan to do but wanted to make sure I reached out to the Z peps. Of course, I will be checking CL while out there and trying to spy a pull-it yard for Z cars, lol.

Just purchased the reflective material, will have pictures taken once installed.

Was the heater hose just old and finally gave out? If it had never been replaced or ver long ago that could be why it failed. I doubt the engine temps caused it to pop but having no coolant in the engine once the hose let go would cause the engine temps to rise. I would replace the old hoses coming from the heater valve to the outside firewall with new hoses from Nissan that you can still buy. You should be good to go after that.

Nice can't wait to see it in person soon! Congrats again my friend!

I have an overcharging issue going on right now on my 260z. Swapped to an internally reg alternator 2 years ago. I will be looking at the grounds next week and trying to trace down my issue. I still have at ammeter in my car so it spikes at +60 at driving speeds. Glad you figured out your issue.

David don't forget about the late 71 I just sold to a guy in Pa.

I know Rags 260z he just picked up had those inner fender rubber parts on, I will check the date of his car.

Curtball are you using this unit? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-260-11179/overview/ This is the unit I have and I have leaking fittings on all 5 ports. I made up new lines and the end that go into the Master Cylinder don't leak along with the unions I made. I am puzzled why this thing is leaking! The inverted flare seems to be exactly what is needed but here I am.

I am having the same issue and wish I could see the image that was removed. My info has me doing a double flare. Did the info for this part number say to do a bubble flare? I am going to pull the prop valve off today or tomorrow so I can take a look at the inside to see what kind of flare is needed. Not too happy because I got brake fluid over the rails.....no more fresh paint.