crazyoctopus

flickr is great, as is the search button.

i like 15x10 4.5" (-25)

I didn't say ever, just that it wasn't posted in this context. Gives the guy an idea what 11as look like, and let's him decide if 12 is where he wants to go.

surprised no one has posted this one... 15x10 -25 in the front 15x11 -30 in the rear no need for super wide flares, just some super stretch.

is Zforce still alive? i have messaged them a few times about their "new" RLCA, and have yet to receive a response.

rebuit su carbs, mani, filters, throttle link $150 http://losangeles.craigslist.org/lac/pts/1590866883.html

well i just ordered a set of 15x10 with 4.5" backspacing all around so i'll tell you if i need a spacer, but from all of the research that i have put into it 4.5" is the maximum that you can do with stock suspension. i'll post pictures as soon as i get them and install them

replaced the clutch with a new stock replacement from msa, installed the MSA solid rear diff mount, and took my r180 to a welder and asked him to weld all of my spider gears together. welded diffs arent the best, but the r180 is pretty worthless and a welded diff is better than an open diff. when i finished i figured that my car was too quiet with the stock exhaust and with the welded diff and the wheels on order... i had to take it to ridiculous, childish, awesome levels. so i cut off the muffler. here is what she sounds like now.

It all depends on the size tyre you want and how low the car is. Best way is a test fit; used Tyres are really cheap so get something that you thing will work and then adjust when the time comes to put on the tyres that you really want. With that offset I am assuming that you have after market coils. So to "fill" those flares you may have to get a spacer.

nah it will still push; you have to set up your car a bit differently, there is a post somewhere abut 70s era suspension tuning (the era of welded diff road racing). Also you may have to change your driving style to accommodate the locked rear end; aka be more aggressive.

everything installed and just finished balancing and tuning the carbs. here is her maiden voyage. the first drive out -- there isn't as much power as i thought that there would be, but then again i am coming from the mindset of a FC Turbo2. I am sure that once I open up the exhaust and get some triple carbs life will be back to fantastic this is the 32nd day since i have owned the car, and total spent is now 1300 =sold the wheel, hub caps, and rear louvers for 200.

on the 6th(22nd day) I primered the interior of the car, received the ABS steering coupler and urethane steering rack bushings, and sealed up what needed to be sealed. yesterday, 7th (23rd day), I routed the battery lines, and secured the battery, and flushed the brakes and clutch. the clutch master and slave needed to be replaced so i had to order them and will be installing them both today. running total of car is $1500 lager photos can be found HERE

Still no photos of them both together though... Hmm looks like I have an answer to how my car will look

So then what is the maximum backspace a wheel can have on stock coils?

3 weeks in and here are the updated photos. -new install: MSA carbon metallic brake shoes and pads, SS brake lines, SS clutch line, removed interior and sound deadening, and then removed some hidden rust and the patch work that followed. ==i dont have unlimited funds to spend on the car, but i do have $20 to spend on some sheet metal and rivets the holes were sealed with some extra "red" high temp engine gasket sealant, if it can seal the engine it can seal the ground from my feet. next step is to further seal the holes with more red gasket, as well as use some crazy self etching primer to protect the metal. And then primer the interior not only to not only seal it, but also to make it look clean. total cost = $1391 including cost of car ($500). I just purchased the ABS plastic steering coupler and urethane steering bushings so that, along with a positive battery cable, will bring the cost to get the car road worthy to around $1450. more photos can be found HERE

I remember seeing somewhere that to clear stock coils you need at most a 4.5" or 5" backspace; anything under that (4.25, 3, etc) and you should be fine. The width of the wheel depends on backspace, and tyre size.

Awesome, thanks Alan. On a side note what size/offset wheels are you running?

You are correct devilzx. And capital letters only work if you know how to read gc

found one, but the car doesnt exist in real life; just in the CG world

nope, nothing. looked already

So I have been trolling the internets looking for a 240z with ZG flares AND a BRE front lip, and it doesn't exist... really? so i am asking the populous to submit photos of a 240z with a BRE front lip (chin spoiler) and ZG flares.

problem solved thanks to Curtis240z on classiczcars.com here is the link to the post http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?p=312423#post312423

i actually have both now. i have a hard wire to ground, as well as a wire to the points. the only way that i was able to get any power running through the coil was if i hard lined a ground on the negative side of the coil. here is a photo of what the current set up is...

alright, so i checked the wire to the back of the tach, and that was fine, all of the wires were solid. i took out my volt meter and found that i was getting 13V from the BW wire on the resistor to the GW wire on the reisistor. when i tested the power from the + side of hte coil to the - side of the coil it read 0V. started looking at the connections, recleaned them, replaced the plugs and tried again. same results. since we were getting power to the resistor but not through the coil i figured that it might be a bad ground (B wire on - side of coil). so i added a ground wire to it, and FINALLY got voltage running through the coil. while key is in the "ON" position and resistor connected i was getting... +/- on coil is 6V +/- on resistor is 6V High tension (nipple from coil to distributor) to (-) on coil is 6v while cranking the car +/- on coil is 7.75V +/- on resistor is 0V High tension (nipple from coil to distributor) to (-) on coil is 8v this is where it gets weird. when i connect the voltmeter to the the distributor cable it shows no volts running through it. when i take off a spark plug wire at any cylinder there is no spark running through it. so i dunno, the coil now has power going through it. but whenever itwants to transfer to the distributor it shows no voltage, and i would think that there would be. so what is the next plan of attack? is it in the distributor? i replaced the points, rotor, condensor, and cap.