crazyoctopus

updated diagram. fixed starter circuit, removed 5 terminal wiper relay and decided to go with a fast-off, when it comes time to look at the motor i may remove the relay all together, and the relays have been flipped to meet the normal 30-in 87-out layout. larger image http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4033/4498464677_2382771c22_o.jpg

here is 4.5in of backspacing on a 15x10 with 225.50 tyres on stock struts you could try 5in backspacing, but why risk any type of binding or interference at all?

they offer all of them in 5 lug, and most of the time they are cheaper (4x4.5 aka 4x114.3 is an extra $10) mine are pro/challenger. http://www.diamondra...challenger.html =if you search around this and classicz there are a few threads about diamondracing wheels with some good pictures

do it. finding dot tyres for 13s may be harder/more expensive than 15s though; even then 15s are really limited.

you would search around the internets to get the real weight of the cobra wheel to compare. and if you are thinking about going ridiculous i think braaap is running 12s

-the photo that you are looking at is one that someone in the UK photoshopped. Here is the same picture without all of the moving and color changes. -yes the wheels are indeed 15x10 with 4.5" bs here is a photo from when the boxes came in, and one of the tyre size. there are two reasons why I went with a 4.5" back spacing with 225.50 tyres all around and they stem from two photos. The first couple are shots of Yuta's car; he has 15x10 with -25mm of offset (aka 4.5" backspacing) on his front. Since I dont plan on running THAT low, i wont have to massively stretch the tyres so that they will clear the flares. The third photo (rear of the car) has wheels that are 16" in diameter rather than 15" with 225.50 tyres, but due to how high they sit inside the flair I really dont think that i will have an issue looking like a sunken battleship. =if worse comes to worse, I could always buy a spacer to close up that gap. so because of these two cars i made my decision of using 15x10 with 4.5"bs instead of using 15x8 with 2.5" of bs; it is up to you if you want to run with 4" of backspacing, you may have to run with slightly thinner tyres though. although if you are looking for more lip go with the lighter 15x8 with 2.5" of backspacing, and then run some rt-615s with a slight bit of stretch. -here are a few of shots of the rear profile, and semi-rear profile of the tyres; sorry that they are not on the ground but i just installed parts. -yes i did have to pay the extra $10 for the bolt pattern http://www.diamondra...challenger.html =for all of my 240z photos just head to http://www.flickr.co...57623019151162/

4.5" is the maximum backspacing that you can run with stock struts. As far and the bubble that you wan to add to the tyre... 10in rims are actually 11in wide, so instead of 1.5" you have 1.1" either end. I would say go with 2.5-3, and if there are any issues with clearance add a spacer. you may also have to worry about the growth of the tyre so 2.5 may be what you want to go with. --another thing that you should think about is the unsprung rotating weight that you are adding to the car. unless you are going expensive, diamond racing wheels are not that light at 15x10 (20lbs a piece) plus there is the additional weight from the tyre, so if you want to be faster you may want to look at getting a lighter wheel instead of a wider wheel.

obligatory: who sunk his battleship?

gotcha. tomorrow i will be pretty much free and clear; as most of it will be running around getting the brake lines that i need and researching on the proper initial tuning of the carbs, so i'll be able to make the changes that you mentioned. for the 30 to 87 swap all i would have to do is swap the numbers correct? So it would be 85 ground switch, 86 feed form mini fuse, 30 jumpered to 86, and 87 gives power to object?

it was easter weekend i was drunk the whole time, and drunken tuning only yeilds... well... it yields amazing, but i was busy. connected up the fuel lines today though and she fired right up! then she idled to 3k rpm and started to smoke like mad cakes. not too worried about the smoke as these are brand new header, exhaust, mani, etc. and have been sitting for about a week. I need to find a good weber book/web page that tells me how to set idle and richness and blah blah blah before i start her up again. ordered the extremely expensive ($28/horn) airhorns/stacks/venturis as well, you were right yetterben the aux venturi's just fell right out while the engine was running. once i get all of the settings down, then it comes time for some rear brake lines gauges and the super exciting part of ripping the electrical out and installing my diagram!

keep the color, keep the money, and make it ruff

retail shipped to my door in california, so probably cheaper where you live. here is a okay shot of what they look like on the car

here is the updated with geezer's relays taken into place; didn't add the charge led though. When I showed this to the co-creator he was told me to "stop changing the layout!" but I think that having the starter on a ground switch is awesome. larger http://farm5.static....dfa414f76_o.jpg once i get the car started up and running well, I will be attacking this on some plywood and getting the drawings laid out exactly like it would be on the car.

15x10 -25 in white/black/silver for ~515 from diamond racing.

I dont like the look of the rotary phoneish look of the challengers, i prefer D-windows.

nope that is just kinda sitting there, barely touched it since i got it to the house. gonna be my backup engine if/when this one goes, and if i dont decide to swap in something different.

love it love it! off topic, but what are you using for the heat shield? just some sheet metal?

pictures or it didnt happen

not yet, have to route fuel lines and then it will! hopefully... looks pretty as is though

1975280 - i checked the thickness of the cannon flange and the MSA header and they are only .02" different (.63 for the headers and .61 for the mani) I am doing the finally fit after i post this, but it doesnt seem like i will have to grind anything down.

was able to pick up the headers, exhaust, and syncrometer from MSA yesterday, and so i took pictures of the initial install. while I was removing the stock exhaust i broke a bolt, the one right under the thermostat housing, so i had to remove the housing to pit some vice grips around it and get it off that way. it broke again... then i pulled out my easy-out set drilled a hole and tapped the bit in; then the easy out bit broke off inside the already sheered bolt... so i drilled another pilot hole and just decided to drill out the opening. Then my bit broke inside of the bolt... after 2 breaks in the bolt, a snapped easy-out, and a broken drill bit i was finally able to clear the bolt out and retap the hole. then while putting on the header i ran into a clearance issue with, what seems like, part of the heat shield. With some massaging I was able to get it to fit without it touching. the header flange was a bit bowed, but that will straighten out when then nuts get tightened down, and it seems that i am running into a clearance issue with the cannon intake manifold. I bought some new studs to put into the top intake threads to see if i can squeeze it on there, instead of having to remove the headers and grind down too much of the flange.

yep 515 to my door

yeah... that wont work.. i'll fix it in the morning.

slight update on the diagram. It will change soon as I really dont like how the "ultimate kill switch" is looking. with the headers and exhaust coming in tomorrow i will be implementing this diagram very very soon http://www.flickr.co...166214/sizes/l/ ==wont let me post the picture... so here is the link larger image http://www.flickr.co...166214/sizes/o/

sent them an e-mail last night and didn't hear a response; called them this morning and was able to put headers, exhaust, and a synchrometer on will call. when in doubt use the tele.