crazyoctopus

Gah, I wish I would have waited on the purchase of the 4.44

Yeah, but finding one that doesn't cost as much as another diff is proving troublesome. I was hoping that I could possibly reuse some parts, but if that is just what it is then I may be selling my 4.44.

Quick question hoping for a quick answer because i cannot find anything about this through a good deal of searching I have an STI clutch type R180 diff with a 4.44 gear ratio and i'd like to swap in my ratio from the original 1972 Datsun R180 3.364 (possible 3.545, but need to confirm) is this possible without any modification? I am getting really annoyed with my 70mph 3300rpm cruising speed, and the terribly short gear ratio.

Hello, Hello, Hello! Once again I'll be in Austin this year jumping out of my seat and yelling at the automobiles screaming down the track for the race this year. If you are local, or a temporary local from abroad, shoot me a message! Also I'll be posting photos from the race at day's end again so be sure to check http://www.flickr.com/crazyoctopus"

Thanks for all of the love! I have been having too much fun fiddling with the car to post anything about it, but hey... better fiddling with the Z than just fiddling with my thumbs... Last Friday Martin and I made our way down to Yoshifab to pick up the car, and bring her home. Her first meal with her new heart & brain implant (american lard of 91 octane) First Meal by crazyoctopus, on Flickr Her first real drive on the street http://youtu.be/vIGwOcbQPHI Look at her pretty tuckus... Home again, home again by crazyoctopus, on Flickr After some adjustment of parts and tightening of some bolts 'n bolts, I was able to get her to idle at a decent RPM. This however was a small victory, there was another issue with the, I think, IAC and it is causing her to have a higher than normal idle when warm. It is either that or I need to adjust the TPS, or there is a slight vacuum leak, or maybe my dizzy... I really have no idea at this point. For now I am idling at 1100RPM and I would like it to be 750-900. Hopefully Josh will have an answer when I stop by on Friday to patch up an exhaust leak, if not then I'll deal with it after I solve the short that I have in the running lights circuit. 'till next time. ps. I also strapped on the front lip (FINALLY) and man oh man SEX FACE MCGEE

Well kidos, it has been two years since I threw sheets to the wind and decided that it would be a good idea to try to put a motor in a car that hadn't been done before. Sure there was quite a bit of frustration, hiccups, vodka, racked knuckles, & dust collecting, but there has not been a single project that I have ever been involved in that put this large of a smile of my face. HONESTY STRIKEOUT, I teared up on the drive back home from the shake down drive yesterday. So without further ado here is the first drive of the 1972 Datsun 240z powered by a volvo b230 8v block with a 16v head, bolted to a Ford T5 transmission, snailed by a 19t turbo. http://www.flickr.com/photos/crazyoctopus/9975759444/ [The hesitation that you hear from the engine was due to both the ECU learning as well as running too little fuel and having the engine stave. It smoothed out shortly after 5 gallons of fuel was put in] http://www.flickr.com/photos/crazyoctopus/9975799414/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/crazyoctopus/9975902943/ ::side note... doughnuts are now known as doritos:: http://www.flickr.com/photos/crazyoctopus/9975943094/ Next post will be of, hopefully, some in car videos of the drive home. Please take note of the hilariously long shifter lever in the "first pass" video. The T-5 transmission sits much farther forward than the stock F4W 4-speed, so until I design and build a shifter relocation mechanism I will be sticking to a tube, welded to a plate, bolted to the tranny. I will say that I totally dig the boro dildo shift knob. I mean really, it is far too smile inducing for me to replace it soon. -- This morning I drove back to Yoshifab to make sure that the chassis wiring that I did two years ago still works. This way when I drive it home I will have working brake lights. The first step was to figure out which switches I actually need. Fantastically the team at yoshifab cut down the amount of switches that I need by nearly half: eFan is now controlled via a temp switch (volvo stock part), fuel pumps & IGN are kicked on with the kill key (instead of two switches). When all was said and done I was left with only 3 switches: running/dash lights, high/low beam, & reverse lights. There was a hiccup with the brake lights, but after some troubleshooting I found out that the brake switch itself was sticking so I stole some lube and now it works fantastically. I had to leave before I tied up all the loose ends - Dad's B-day - but all that is left is to run a power wire from the fuse block to the battery, and tie the brake switch to the power side of the starter switch.

I saw where you were Lazeum, who knows though? you may come to the states and see her on the road... very low chance, but it still exists... Glad to see some ovlov love! For that love I give you some new content, and content of the best of types... Newly rebuilt engine, and moving parts! (sorry for the redirect to my flickr) http://www.flickr.com/photos/crazyoctopus/9960132634/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/crazyoctopus/9960131594/ IT MOVES!!!!!! ((ps. These vids were taken with a bad MAF, since then it has been replaced and the engine runs smooth)) Tomorrow I will be heading to the shop to hopefully take some actual "drive on the street" videos and photos. Seriously, excitebike times 12!! She is almost ready to be in my hands again, and SOOO CLOSE to having the final touches put on her to become my daily driver

This may have been a mojor contributor to why the engine sounded like a tactor... #babahabahaha #crackedblockisholy by crazyoctopus, on Flickr Cracked Block is Holy by crazyoctopus, on Flickr and just for good measure... why not... #whoreallywantsthistobeonepiece #meh #itstillran by crazyoctopus, on Flickr Even with those, it still ran. muahahhahahahaha. Lazeum - Than you very much! and super AWESOME! Hopefully soon you will be seeing my lady on the street.

Needless to say yesterday ROYALLY SUCKED, but here is a nice heart warming chug that made my day 1000000 times better http://www.flickr.com/photos/crazyoctopus/9720687620/ That is with the bad block, air leaks, MAF placement, and possibly some bad injectors, BUT WHO ******* CARES IT CAN ACTUALLY RUN!!!!!!! YoshiFab is already tearing down the block so now it is only time before it is road worthy. ::sigh of relief::

Update on the car! And sadly it isnt a good one, but before the heartbreak here are a couple shots that I took while I was at the shop on friday... I really really love this slight dump on the tip, so... I took another shot of it. 240z randoms by crazyoctopus, on Flickr Where the battery is mounted. I know that some of you are thinking that I should have kept it where it was, but with all of the extra 0 gauge wire that I would need to run to mount it behind the passenger seat it would negate the savings and the weight offset. 240z randoms by crazyoctopus, on Flickr ECU & EZK mounting plate. Passenger side foot tunnel, I will be adding some type of protective plate to mae sure some feet don't get too kick happy. 240z randoms by crazyoctopus, on Flickr And now for the heart break... Remember how I posted that hilarious bit of the junkyard engine having a crack in it that looked, and felt, like it was only on the exterior? And how I JB Welded it together in hopes that it would "fix" it, even temporarily? god damnit by crazyoctopus, on Flickr god damnit by crazyoctopus, on Flickr Well... It wasn't only on the exterior... This bucket is filled with coolant AND oil... #notgood #fuckthisgame #allofthemoney #crackedblockiscracked #BLAH by crazyoctopus, on Flickr This is what I thought when I saw the message from YoshiFab #NOSNAKENOOOOOOOOO #workisbleh #onlysavior #20minleft #cantwait by crazyoctopus, on Flickr The result was bound to happen, but I was really hoping that the engine would have at least started and moved under its own power with that block. Proof of concept... and maybe a boost of moral? It isn't all a total loss though as YoshiFab has a 92 b230 block at the shop. Hopefully not much longer until we see a video of it starting. 'till next time

Mornin' all, Slight update before I head to the shop today to get some more photos and check up on some dimensions for the shifter position. Radiator, intercooler are piped and mounted; new engine mounts and a 19t turbo, eFan from a 740 volvo (used to be from a fiero) Datsun 240z progress by crazyoctopus, on Flickr Datsun 240z progress by crazyoctopus, on Flickr Transmission mounted & 3" pipe all the way back ((who needs a resonator/cat really? My Honda Fit offset the carbon footprint of this car...)) Datsun 240z progress by crazyoctopus, on Flickr Datsun 240z progress by crazyoctopus, on Flickr And for a nod to RE-Amemyia's Dolphin Tail, a slight tip drop Datsun 240z progress by crazyoctopus, on Flickr

Something happened, something is missing... She moved for the first time in a year. The 240z has been placed in the capable hands of none other than Yoshifab to do all of the finishing touches, and should be on the road yelling down the street within the next couple months. I cannot wait, it has been a long time in the works and am really glad that the driving day for the first volvo powered 240z is in the foreseeable future.

updates will be coming soon I have been slammed with work and life and now that I have all of them in check i'll be getting back to the car, this weekend i'll be doing the simple thing of bolting on the flywheel, clutch, & pressure plate then reinstalling the engine and tranny to start up the wiring of the engine. hopefully by the time that my hydro throwout bearing comes in all i will have to do is pop the tranny out and slide it it to get it on the road again!

A bit of an update... A couple weekends ago I finally got around to rewiring the relays and started testing the whole harness to make sure that everything worked... It did Headlights by crazyoctopus, on Flickr Due to that awesome bust of happiness, and actually getting visual progress, I had a new found rush of working on my car again. As such I worked on my car on Saturday with the hope that I would be able to make a transmission mount as well as see how much I had to cut off of my driveshaft to make it fit. But before any of that could be done we had to get some sim racing in back with a force by crazyoctopus, on Flickr The next morning I made a quick run to the hardware store and picked up the required metal, bolts, and nuts. After a short bit of hammering, heating, and drilling I created a transmission mount. After final fit was done on the chassis I made a couple more holes into the chassis and bolted it all up. transmission in! by crazyoctopus, on Flickr Now it was time to see how much I was either going to have to cut off or add to the driveshaft to make it work... So I bolted in the driveshaft... bolted in driveshaft for fitment by crazyoctopus, on Flickr And BOOM!!! YESSS!!! PERFECT!!! WWWOOOOO!!!!!! by crazyoctopus, on Flickr Seriously only about 1/16" from being where it was from the factory! Soooooo incredible. Now all that is needed is to find a U-joint that will convert the Datsun size to the Mustang size and I will be golden! This week will be spend re-researching what I will need to finish the car and hopefully within the month I will be finished; actually I want to be finished by the 26th so that I can enter into open header night and roll around town being ******* loud, but we will see if that is actually possible

Part swapped my MSA 2.5" header back exhaust for an intercooler with a friend of mine GodSpeed super by crazyoctopus, on Flickr Mouth full by crazyoctopus, on Flickr wweeeeeeeee

datsun723 - Sure sounds good, I am in town after 6pm on the week days and there usually on the weekeds, send me a PM and we will plan it all out. boredkid280z - No real issues with a slammed car, just lots of crawling over speed bumps or complete avoidance. the displacement is 2.4l just like a KA, and I am going to use the stock 240z driveshift cut down about an inch or so. The plan is to daily drive it, but I will still be using it in the mountains as well as on road courses whenever I have a chance. =============== time for a bit of an update ================ It has been too long since I have actually done any wiring on a car, and I never was really that good at it to begin with, but I have finally gotten around to tackling the chassis. With the wiring diagram that I created on the screen I started connecting everything to the relay and fuse box. wiring by crazyoctopus, on Flickr Drilled out my switch panel as well as my instrument panel and mounted what I needed to mount. wiring by crazyoctopus, on Flickr wiring by crazyoctopus, on Flickr wiring by crazyoctopus, on Flickr --This is not the final look of the panels, they will be covered with some fabric so that it doesn't blind me while I am driving.-- I am pretty stoked about how it turned out, and once it was all ready I started testing. At that moment I was no longer stoked about it... Nothing worked, absolutely nothing. I kept trying different things and checking grounds but nothing was working. The relays were clicking, but none of the lights turned on. So after about 5 more minutes I called it a weekend and started to let the vodka+ flow. During this time of intoxication I started to think about how I wired up the relays. I went everywhere on the internets with a diagram as to how ground switch relays are wired I found out that I was correct in what I did. However, what I did do wrong was mirror where the wires go to... yeah... I'm that guy. Somewhere down the line my numbers got switched around: my layout translated from the Nissan numbers 30(1) --ooo-- 87(2) 85(3) __/ -- 86(5) =====WHAT IT SHOULD HAVE BEEN==== 86(1) --ooo--85(2) 30(3) __/ -- 87(5) So yeah... the visual diagram that I put at the bottom of the page is correct, just the Nissan numbers that I associated with it were wrong. I should have double checked but I figured that after 15 revisions it would be good. Oh well such is life, and it isn't that big of a deal to re-plug everything back together. And that is my plan for this week, that way I have the whole weekend to make a transmission mount and hopefully start on the engine wiring harness, but I may save that for the very last thing that I do.

me too! haha

http://www.egauges.com/vdo_ind.asp?Type=Fuel_Level&Series=Z_Series&PN=ATM-2642 73 Ohm empty/ 8-12 Ohm full. pretty damn close.

wagon jon - maybe 3 start ups? hahah really i have no idea. at this point i am hoping that it will last long enough so that I can do some testing to make sure everything works. if it doesnt hold at all it is just a quick run to the yard or I have a guy that sells good blocks. Gothalosism - $80 shipped to my door if i remember correctly. ps. i hate you for finding one in the yard. I should have some updates soon, I just have been dealing with a new job and moving so i haven't had mush time to devote to the car.

times 10 richracing. times 10.

you will not have a single issue whatsoever running a 4.5BS on stock suspension. if you really want to be baller get 15x8 with 2in of backspacing. They are lighter than the 10 by a million pounds and you wont have to worry about stretching your tires. oh and they will clear your stock suspension just fine... there is a guy on here running them with ZG flares just cant think of his name just search diamond racing and you will see it. I asked for his specs awhile back but he no longer goes on this site.

Thank you kindly! I used dry ice to remove the sound deadening, and then sanded it all down to bare metal.

rattle can rustoleum primer white, and thank you kindly!